Car audio question

optima would be best prob do you know if a yellow top will clear the hood ??
O I have one last question for you. The cap came with this lil light bullb to charge it and discharge it , well i kinda lost it.... lol so what can i do about this?

Justin
 
optima should clear it cleared my stock tbird hood as for the bulb use two wires and attach them to a small fan and it willdrain it
 
i'd say for a monoblock go with a kicker amp, or even a rockford fosgate punch series. my opinion you cant really get a better amp for the money than a punch amp from fosgate.
 
jamie97lsc said:
i'd say for a monoblock go with a kicker amp, or even a rockford fosgate punch series. my opinion you cant really get a better amp for the money than a punch amp from fosgate.
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THanks Jamie
Ill loook around prob gonna have to order online.
Is there any online store with good prices? Which amp should I get? I wanted to get kicker to match the L5 which handles 600 Rms 1200 Max @ 2 Ohm. any thought n opinions would help
thanks
justin
 
mafioso said:
Oh boy this is right up my alley....

How much are you willing to shell out?

To give you an idea Im running a 390 amp alt. with 3 group 56 Optima blue tops, for my monsterous compressor which draws 180 amps,

And my Orion HCCA-275G4 which draws about 100 amps on a good day.
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Where the hell did you get a 390 watt amp and how much does it cost?
 
I bought the alternators from Nathan at excessiveamperage.com.

Power caps are usless by design. everyone should avoid using them and fix the problem from the get go instead trying to put a band aid.

And forget the brands like kicker, MTX. If you really want to get great sound find an effiecent amp.

Wattage does not equate better sound.

Read a few articles from Toby and Navone.
 
mem-piss? can you describe what makes memphis a bad brand? I personally have never had a problem with the brand. I've seen a lot of memphis audio used at competitions. I've used memphis products for 3 years. in my experience the warranty is great(warranty from dealer only though), the speakers can take more than they are rated for, and the prices are reasonable. but i'd be glad to get some input from an actual car audio dealer, maybe learn something new.
 
^^ Im with you there, I've never had any memphis problems.

Ive had problems out of Kicker, and MTX (New school, oldskool kicks ass)
 
Mem-piss is vastly over rated on the power specs and they blow up easily,but if it works for you good luck, I am happy for you. As far as Kicker I have never been a fan but their newer products are way better than their old products. It all depends on what you want out of your sound system. Loud is LOUD and SQ is sound quality. Kinda like wanting a full drag car or a luxury car, its one or the other. Sure there is some happy mediums out there just find what you like and use it. Not everyone will have the same experiences out of products. I personally like Pioneer, Alpine, JL Audio and some Rockford Fosgate. I like useful features and dependable products. Flashy painted speakers and amps with chrome all over (MA audio), are about as useful as some of those riced out cars with 2 foot tall wings. LOL
 
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No Doubt, I was going to do 4 Polk Audio DB+ 12"s but then I spoke with Mr Toby and he is going to do all of the wood work in the trunk at a steal of $600 for 2 tens, and I cant refuse. And if you have ever heard Toby speakers you know ;)
 
Just to clarify a few things, caps do not do what they claim to do. I have two of them in my trunk. One is for the 4 channel and the other is for the sub amp. The 4 channel didn't need one but I put it in anyway for looks. I have the old school Kicker amps. The sub amp is a Kicker Impulse 2252xi pushing 3 JL 10's and the 4 channel is a Kicker Impulse 654xi and the sound quality I have is amazing but every time the system hits a bass lick, my headlights and dash lights dim down. I also have the 130 amp alt (not enough) that is supposed to be in a Crown Vic. (4G) As for the amps, I have owned them for a long time and never had a problem with any of them. They are underrated in my opinion. I rarely ever drive at night so the headlight thing doesn't bother me any and in order for it to dim the lights, I would have to have it on around 16 which starts shaking eye lids and making the nose constantly itch.

The caps did help deliver the power that wasn't there before the install and I can tell a difference but they are useless for stopping the dimming of headlights. I might go weeks without even turning it on but if I ever want the sound, I have it waiting.
 
also thinking about it when the lights dim at idle its usually when im slowing down to stop from 60+ so the air susp is raising from highway speed, and the twin compressors are pulling a slight load also :D
 
Get a optima or another high quality battery it will make a difference. Also check the altenator. What size fuses are in those amps, and what gauge wire?
 
dont remember what gauge, 2 maybe not sure on the fuses either. the biggest draw is the twin comps just shy of 100a
 
An easy way to see what your amps will put out roughly is to check the fuses in it 100 whats per 10 amp rating on the fuse. So with that being said a amp with 3 40 amp fuses would have roughly 1200 watts give or take. this is of course depending on your voltage at the amp and its given efficiency. Always make your ground wires of equal gauge and matted to a very shiny clean metal surface and as short as possible. Good grounding is as important as anything in your system. A bad ground is the quickest way to short out an amp and cause massive damage to your deck and other system components.
 
you must also take into account the amps design class (a,b,d etc). that changes its output rating kinda like the difference in a diesel motor versus gas. class d amps are more efficient at making power for subs as they make power for a given range (250hertz down) class a and b do the full range.
 
Hmm I can see that, but if an amp can only take 480w in how can it output 1200w at the same voltage?
 
Let me clarify it for you 3x40 amp fuses will have a combined fusing capacity of 120 amp. 120 amp should be good for 1200 watts all things being equal. The voltage part of the equation is not exactly accurate because some amps will not even work with lower voltage (10 or so) they will simply shut off or go into protection mode. Same way if it were to have excessive voltage 16 volts up. Granted some amps with out fusing will just go until something gives internally. Like I said before there are other variables involved quality not quantity.
 
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