cant get a bell housing bolt

evf4720

evf4720

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ive been working on dropping my transmission to put my tc in. i cant get the top drivers side bolt broken loose. ive tried to get at it from the engine bay with no success. also tried using about 5 extensions and a swivel to reach it from the back side of the tranny. the socket keeps slipping off. did i read something about jacking up the front of the engine? where would i go about placing the jack?

also rounded off one of the starter bolt heads but thats not a huge problem.
still need to get the 4 tc-flexplate bolts off too but i think a just spin th crank clockwise untill i can get to them right? how do i get the smog thing outta the way or do i just clamp on with some vise grips and pray?

any help would be greatly appriciated. any hating will be overlooked :rolleyes:

thanks, logan
 
ok i got the tc-flexplate bolts out. when i get time i'm gonna wrench on the starter bolts. already snapped the bottom one and rounded the middle one. havent tried the top one yet. then i guess i'll remove the crossmember and try to get a wrench or socket on that darned bell housing bolt. then put a jack under it so i can remove all the others that are just broken loose. smoother sailing from there i hope.
 
its a pain but if you remove the wiper mechanism and put a jack and piece of wood under the trans pan, you can lift up the trans which will tilt the motor forward, and with the wiper mechanism out of your way you can get to the top two bell housing bolts with ease.
 
I remember those two bolts and they are hell. I used 5 or 6 extensions and broke 2 swivels on the drivers side but finally got it to break loose. I tilted the motor to the back to get mine though. I guess they're hell either way you go at them.
 
its actually easy if you do what i said above, the hell part is getting the wiper mechanism out, those things suck!!
 
Why not do it the right way and hoist motor, drop k member, lower motor and trans down
 
Sapperfire said:
Why not do it the right way and hoist motor, drop k member, lower motor and trans down
Click to expand...

If you like to reach over your shoulder to scratch your ass...

If you havent already, remove the cross member at the rear of the trans, and let the trans lower down, it will give you a lot more room to get at the top bellhousing bolts. At work I use an extension that is 1/2" and reduces to 3/8", you may need to try to find something like that if someone previously installed those bolts with the hand of god. However, Jamie's way may also be necessary if you can't do it my way.
 
DieselDan said:
If you like to reach over your shoulder to scratch your ass...

If you havent already, remove the cross member at the rear of the trans, and let the trans lower down, it will give you a lot more room to get at the top bellhousing bolts. At work I use an extension that is 1/2" and reduces to 3/8", you may need to try to find something like that if someone previously installed those bolts with the hand of god. However, Jamie's way may also be necessary if you can't do it my way.
Click to expand...

That's exactly how I got mine out but I put a jack and board under the crank pulley and it didn't have any pressure on it really. I jacked the motor back until the TPS bumped into the firewall and that's all I needed to get to it. Getting to it wasn't the hard part, it was breaking it loose.

First comment....:D
 
I would drop the crossmember and trns some then you. should have a straight shot at the top bolts. If all you have are bunch of short extensions then you gotta use a breaker bar not the impact gun. I bought a 3 foot extension after a few times with the tran coming out. Also the swivel sockets are very helpful. Hope it helps
 
i took a look today and i have no clue what windshield washer thing you guys are talkin about. all i could think of is the whole shroud. i dont want to tear into all that. so i'm gonna drop the crossmember. is the crank pulley really the best part of the engine to lift with? sounds unhealthy to me.


is there a trick to getting to the bolts on the starter?
 
lifting by the crank pulley????????????????????????? omg i wouldnt.
i use the two studs that are on the top of the timing cover near each side of the coolant cross over tube where it goes into the heads. i have never lifted by the crank thats just not right sounding!
 
ok the studs sound like a better idea to me. i'll go with that lol thanks for all the help so far. chances are i'll be back :p
 
ok ive tried and tried to get the damn bolts off the starter/ right now they are my only hold up. i cant get a damaged bolt remover in there. i cut through half of the middle one with a sawzaw and dremel but couldnt go any further. i tried an air hammer with a chisel style tip with no success. i dont have a blow torch and ive never used one but i was told that mite work. any suggestions? i'm fresh out of ideas.
 
got it out. we ended up just man handling it out with the starter still attached. then snapped all the bolts off the starter. now i have to drill out all 3 starter bolts and all 4 of the exhaust bolts that i snapped. then i can start puttin her back together.


how much fluid goes into the Stage I, 10 inch Torque Converter from blue oval chips?
 
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