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LaserSVT

LaserSVT

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I have gone to 7 shops and called 11 more and nobody will roll my rear fenders. They see the car color and go "Oh, Tri coat huh? Nope dont wanna do it" :mad:

So I was gonna start a thread to see if anyone wants to go in with me on the purchase of a fender rolling tool. Fortunatly I found a place in Dallas that rents them so I can just do it myself this weekend.

Cant believe every shop is so much a pussy that they wont do it.
 
Guess you haven't tried to match-paint tri-coat before!

The risk/reward factor is just not there for anybody.

And now you're gonna hack it up yourself with NO experience.:eek:
Should be fun to watch.;)
 
Why not cut the fender lip off. It would be less risky than rolling.
I tried hammering the fender one time and stopped. I was hitting it fairly hard but no luck. I pussed out and stopped for fear of F@#@ing it up.
 
Maaco cut mine for $100 bucks, no need for painting. If I was better with an angle grinder I would've done it myself. I wouldn't roll it, those lips are 2 sheets thick.
 
Wait wait wait. I kept hearing people say "just roll the fender, no big deal" now you guys say I should cut it? *Le Sigh*
I was just about to send the guy money to rent the part. I would have to order it by tomorrow evening to make it here this weekend.

Crap. *bangs head*
 
htrdlincoln98 said:
Why not cut the fender lip off. It would be less risky than rolling.
I tried hammering the fender one time and stopped. I was hitting it fairly hard but no luck. I pussed out and stopped for fear of F@#@ing it up.
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I don't know how much experience you have, but you can take a heat gun and WARM the paint up then roll the lip under with an aluminum bat(or similar round, smooth object) against the tire. You put pressure and roll in light passes-don't just force down or you'll make the lip and your 1/4 look choppy.

OR

order a fender roller like they sell out of easwood or similar body shop supply mags. steck makes a good one as well.
 
Check this out: http://www.rollyourfender.com/instruction.html

Thats what I am ordering and it comes with the heat gun too. I am gonna go buy a laser temp gun tomorrow if I can find one somewhere.
Its only gonna run me $80 to rent it for the weekend and shouldnt take but an hour or so.
 
My friend has that same one he used on his M3 show car, it works beautifully!
 
same principal as the easwood kit. be careful with the heat gun and patient with the roller and you will be ok. The general rule of thumb is that if its to hot for you to touch it's too hot for the paint. Make sure that you do a lot of small passes with the roller with light pressure instead of one pass with a lot and you will prob be ok. The worst you can do is crack the paint and have to have your 1/4's shot.
 
lsc8 said:
same principal as the easwood kit. be careful with the heat gun and patient with the roller and you will be ok. The general rule of thumb is that if its to hot for you to touch it's too hot for the paint. Make sure that you do a lot of small passes with the roller with light pressure instead of one pass with a lot and you will prob be ok. The worst you can do is crack the paint and have to have your 1/4's shot.
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Thats baisically all the stuff I have read on how to do it. Heat the paint to 130-140*. They say about as hot as a dark color car is on a summer day but I think its worth spending $30 on a laser temp gun just to be sure. Also to only do a 3-4" section at a time and only bend back the metal in small incriments.

The tool is eaither the Eastwood one or the Tire Rack one. The Tire Rack one IS the Eastwood one but with a different name. So I am sure this is one of the two. The guy requires a $250 deposit and thats what they cost so thats why I figure its prolly the Tire Rack one cause its $30 cheaper then the Easwood. As long as I dont break the tool then I get the deposit back minus shipping. Shipping is only $15 each way and I would spend that much on gas to get it so may as well just have it sent.

Ill post pics as I go and give a report on it. It may come out really nice and if so then future members will know they can do the job themselves for under $100 depending on where they live. If its close then its under $80.
 
Hey Laser, :D bring it to my house and let me pull it in my garage. I have experience in rolling fenders, hoods and pretty much any part on the car, all within minutes. :)

Tommy taught me lol ;)
 
mespock said:
Hey Laser thanks for the web site ... might come in handy if my adjustment to my rear springs does not give me the clearance I want.
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See I figured if there were like 4 or 5 of us then we could buy one for $250 and it would be like a community part. You would have to be staff/Gold Member/high post + long time regular member to use it and you just PP the person who has it the shipping charge.

Then we could use it for only $15-$25 any time we needed it for friends cars or our cars. Not saying loan it to a friend but do it yourself or stay with the tool.
 
Ive used the bat trick a few times and it looks good, but would be afraid on a nicer car like yours, I didnt even heat them up when I was doing it, Just stuck the bat in there and drove the thing forward and back a couple times until I liked it. That was a long time ago.
*DONT DO THE ABOVE* unless its an old crap pile and your not worried about results
 
nolimit94VIII said:
Hey Laser, :D bring it to my house and let me pull it in my garage. I have experience in rolling fenders, hoods and pretty much any part on the car, all within minutes. :)

Tommy taught me lol ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks but the burn marks are too hard to buff out. :lol:




Too soon? :D
 
You may find it doesn't rub in the top of the wheel well, but further back where the rear bumper cover meets the quarter...
 
I had thought that seeing how far that one screw mount sticks out but its perfectly white even on the edges. The rubber strip that covers the pinch weld is rubbed on the top inner part on both sides. Its covered in powdered rubber as the cars rubber is wearing quicker then the rubber off the tire. At my current ride height it does not rub much and only on bad dips at high speeds but I really want to lower it down cause it looks so much nicer when down. Plus I finnaly got ahold of the ASHAM8 guy and should have my kit in a few weeks. :D
 
Icarus said:
You may find it doesn't rub in the top of the wheel well, but further back where the rear bumper cover meets the quarter...
Click to expand...

^^^+100. My point with cutting is that they're gonna be more willing to do that as opposed to rolling them because (in skilled hands) there's less of a chance to damage the paint. They didn't wanna roll mine either but were totally willing to trim the lips.
 
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You don't want to cut the lip, it's a pinch weld where the inner well and outer quarter meet. While minimally structural, our cars flex too much as it is. Also, in time, can you imagine the crap that will work it's way in there? After a few rainy days.. yuck.

I had the luxury of knowing I was going to repaint anyways. I grabbed a 5 lb hammer and taped a towel up there and went to town. Took about a half hour per side. Paint cracked horrible, but still came out real smooth. I can't imagine using a roller, I was swinging pretty hard and if I wasn't ambitious I could've been there for awhile. I also had to roll so much as to roll it back onto itself though. So maybe a roller would be more agreeable going just a little bit. ..I sealed it before paint so crap didn't collect.

Good luck.
 
Ordered the roller today. I hope it shows up in time. Guy said they were all out on loan but he had one with a slight bend in it that would work fine as long as I wasnt doing a full size truck and that he would go install a new roller on it when he got home. So I guess we will see.
 
Ill take pics but nobody to shoot the video.

So I bought one of them laser temp guns today so I can make sure the paint is not over cooked when I roll the fenders. Been going around measuring temps on everything in the house since I opened it. :lol:

In case anyone was curious my balls are 6* warmer then the rest of my body. :D
 
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