Brake Light On

Low fluid, bad float sensor, speed sensors, abs module
 
I'm not sure about Mark VIII's....don't we have a brake switch that is pushed when the brake pedal is pushed to input to the cruise control shutoff? If so, that could be stuck, causing the lights to come on. How do the brakes feel?
 
I had the brake switch fail internally once. One of the brass contacts broke and rattled into a position across two others completing the circuit. You had to tap the pedal quick to get it to jump out of place. I did not know that was the problem unti I changed the switch and pulled apart the old one to see the failure.
 
I'm going to do a brake job this weekend, and swap over the pads and rotors from my Black Mark, and flush the brake system. Hopefully that will clear any error messages. I hope there's no problem with the ABS. Yesterday, I swapped over the ABS sensors for the rear wheels. That took care of my traction control light and message on the Information Center.
 
Note, this is an old thread.

Gman,

Did you ever figure out why your Brake light was coming on? Mine has started to do the same thing. Fluid level looks good, and I assume if it was because of the ABS that that light would come on also.
 
brake warning light will come on for, low fluid level, bad fluid level sensor, Parking brake engaged, abs issue (however this will trigger the abs light as well), and last but not least, the brake light switch attached to the throw rod under the dash...

check the parking brake connection.. my 98 has a short in the release lever..i have to slide it back and forth a bit to make it go off
 
Sapperfire said:
brake warning light will come on for, low fluid level, bad fluid level sensor, Parking brake engaged, abs issue (however this will trigger the abs light as well), and last but not least, the brake light switch attached to the throw rod under the dash...

check the parking brake connection.. my 98 has a short in the release lever..i have to slide it back and forth a bit to make it go off
Click to expand...

Doh!

It was low fluid level.

And I promptly lost the cap filling the reservoir. Fell down into the bowels of the k member.

Ah well, that's why I have the parts car...
 
Kstills said:
Doh!

It was low fluid level.

And I promptly lost the cap filling the reservoir. Fell down into the bowels of the k member.

Ah well, that's why I have the parts car...
Click to expand...

look under the booster on the frame, knock it to the ground with a stick and push the car back..i drop those caps all the time..lol

also, low fluid level is a good indicator that your inner pads are thin, or you have a leak.
check your pad thickness, keep in mind that thin pads get hotter quicker, thus leading to premature rotor wear and possible caliper damage
 
Kstills said:
Note, this is an old thread.

Gman,

Did you ever figure out why your Brake light was coming on? Mine has started to do the same thing. Fluid level looks good, and I assume if it was because of the ABS that that light would come on also.
Click to expand...

The reason the brake light was on was because of the brake reservoir. It was faulty. I just went to the Junkyard and got another one, and I haven't had another problem.
 
GMAN said:
The reason the brake light was on was because of the brake reservoir. It was faulty. I just went to the Junkyard and got another one, and I haven't had another problem.
Click to expand...

you realize that used hydraulic brake parts is kinda no bueno, but at least it worked for YOU

it is NOT suggested for anyone to use hydraulic parts from a JY to avoid brake system contamination

in a lot of cases a vehicle can be "totalled" by an insurance agency because of "vandalism" to the brake system. This generally happens when Mr.Driver takes his car to Your Local Tire and Fluid shop and Mr.Dumbass tops your brake fluid off with power steering fluid, which causes every rubber seal and hose in your brake system to swell and enevitably fail. items that need to be replaced because of this treatment are as follows, Master Cylinder, ABS pump, all hoses, calipers, prop valves, combo valves, isolation valves and then the steel lines must be flushed with denatured alcohol, my shop usually runs a ticket for well over $2000 for this service

most salvage yards do not know why the car is there

so please DO NOT use salvage brake parts..its just cheap and foolish
 
Sapperfire said:
look under the booster on the frame, knock it to the ground with a stick and push the car back..i drop those caps all the time..lol

also, low fluid level is a good indicator that your inner pads are thin, or you have a leak.
check your pad thickness, keep in mind that thin pads get hotter quicker, thus leading to premature rotor wear and possible caliper damage
Click to expand...

Good tip. I'll pull the wheels this weekend and take a look. :)
 
Sapperfire said:
you realize that used hydraulic brake parts is kinda no bueno, but at least it worked for YOU

it is NOT suggested for anyone to use hydraulic parts from a JY to avoid brake system contamination

in a lot of cases a vehicle can be "totalled" by an insurance agency because of "vandalism" to the brake system. This generally happens when Mr.Driver takes his car to Your Local Tire and Fluid shop and Mr.Dumbass tops your brake fluid off with power steering fluid, which causes every rubber seal and hose in your brake system to swell and enevitably fail. items that need to be replaced because of this treatment are as follows, Master Cylinder, ABS pump, all hoses, calipers, prop valves, combo valves, isolation valves and then the steel lines must be flushed with denatured alcohol, my shop usually runs a ticket for well over $2000 for this service

most salvage yards do not know why the car is there

so please DO NOT use salvage brake parts..its just cheap and foolish
Click to expand...

That's fine advice, but you realize there's almost nothing available new except the master cylinder and the flex lines.
 
The plastic reservoir is FAR from going to contaminate your braking system. Wash it out and install new o-rings and you're good to go. The problem is the electronic portion that the pig tail plugs in goes bad.
 
Most people won't use just the reservoir, nor wash it (with denatured alcohol) and install new seals. Most people would use the complete MC, and if it were to be contaminated, would contaminate the entire system

You can still get every part of the system new (or reman) with the exception of the abs pump.. Same exact caliper as a mustang GT, I build them on a daily basis
 
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