Bought my first LS

my two LS have been very reliable... the 1st gen never had a problem (other than people running red lights and backing up with trailer hitches putting it into the body shop where they killed a few coils and cats...)

as for the 2nd gen, it has had the normal worn out suspension work that you would expect from any car with over 150k miles, a battery (normal maintenance) and then it has had coil and VCG problems that were covered by the dealership, and then later another set of coils and the standard LS cooling system overhaul, but thats it. never once has it left me stranded or in need of a tow truck!

So why are the cheap cars more dependable then the expensive, luxury ones?

simple, A: they have many many more parts and typically have much more complicated systems, the more stuff there is, the more stuff can break... for example of course a simple chevy push rod motor is going to be more reliable and a lot cheaper to repair if it does fail, verses a super high tech twin cam with variable valve timing and cam phasers or twin turbo systems with 5 times the amount of sensors and 10 times more moving parts... or a simple heating and cooling system with a single heater control valve and cable or vacuum actuated doors and stuff vs a dual or tri zone automatic climate control systems that handle everything for you

B: luxury cars also tend to be the companies test brands with the latest and greatest technology, a lot of the stuff is brand new and no one knows what the weak link is going to be or what changes they may need to make over the years by the time the systems become cheap enough to put on the other vehicles for example Cadillac first debuted their magneride in some of their case over a decade ago and made it better and better and now it is standard or optional in many Chevy, Buick and of course Cadillac models
 
I test drove a few bmw's (E46 coupes) before I decided on the LS. They drove nice, but everyone of they had a strong odor of crayons! So much that I got nauseous of one of the test drives. I researched them, and they have their issues. vanos, plastic cooling stuff, bushings, electrical gremlins.... For the price, I was able to get a lot more options with the LS. I still like the looks of the bmw's and their engines last forever!

Yeah, the smell is one of the turn-offs.
 
I test drove a few bmw's (E46 coupes) before I decided on the LS. They drove nice, but everyone of they had a strong odor of crayons! So much that I got nauseous of one of the test drives. I researched them, and they have their issues. vanos, plastic cooling stuff, bushings, electrical gremlins.... For the price, I was able to get a lot more options with the LS. I still like the looks of the bmw's and their engines last forever!

Yeah, the smell is one of the turn-offs.

Must be a 3-Series thing. Could it be the faux leather?

My 5 doesn't have any strange smells.....
 
Must be a 3-Series thing. Could it be the faux leather?

My 5 doesn't have any strange smells.....

They say it's cause by the sound deadening material in the trunk above the rear shock mounts. Its made of wax and fiber stuff. They changed it around 2005 because of to many complaints..
 
They say it's cause by the sound deadening material in the trunk above the rear shock mounts. Its made of wax and fiber stuff. They changed it around 2005 because of to many complaints..

That would explain it; mine's a 2012......
 
It seems like the LSes that are driven the most have fewer problems. Maybe the ones that aren't driven enough are lonely and suffer from depression.
 
And so it begins! My ls was overheating just at idle. Turn the heater on and it will cool back down. There were a lot of new cooling parts, all plastic and the degas bottle, install before I got the car. I found a leak on 9N499. Apparently when the previous owner installed the new crossover housing they broke the lip on 9N499. I replaced it and bled the system per the bleeding instructions. Everything went fine until you set the temp to 75* and let it idle. The temp will slowly climb. The only things that haven't been replaced are the radiator, waterpump, and DCCV.

My question is how can I tell if the degas bottle is a true Motorcraft part and not a Dorman. The cap that's on it has a FoMoCo part number, but the heater bleed hose is not new and the motorcraft bottle comes with I new bleed line. Where is the part number located on the motorcraft degas bottle?

Also the thermostat housing/thermostat is aftermarket. I picked up a new thermostat from the ford dealer when I went to get a new 9N499. Took everything apart and realized the ford thermostat would not fit in the new housing I pulled off the car. So time to buy a new thermostat housing. I'm kinda at a lost on what to do next. If degas is a dorman then I'll order a factory unit. Other than that....hmmmm
 
And so it begins! My ls was overheating just at idle. Turn the heater on and it will cool back down. There were a lot of new cooling parts, all plastic and the degas bottle, install before I got the car. I found a leak on 9N499. Apparently when the previous owner installed the new crossover housing they broke the lip on 9N499. I replaced it and bled the system per the bleeding instructions. Everything went fine until you set the temp to 75* and let it idle. The temp will slowly climb. The only things that haven't been replaced are the radiator, waterpump, and DCCV.

My question is how can I tell if the degas bottle is a true Motorcraft part and not a Dorman. The cap that's on it has a FoMoCo part number, but the heater bleed hose is not new and the motorcraft bottle comes with I new bleed line. Where is the part number located on the motorcraft degas bottle?

Also the thermostat housing/thermostat is aftermarket. I picked up a new thermostat from the ford dealer when I went to get a new 9N499. Took everything apart and realized the ford thermostat would not fit in the new housing I pulled off the car. So time to buy a new thermostat housing. I'm kinda at a lost on what to do next. If degas is a dorman then I'll order a factory unit. Other than that....hmmmm
Before you do anything else, let the engine cool. Then, lift the front end a bit. Open the coolant filler cap located just above the thermostat. Squeeze the upper coolant hose several times to burp the air out of the hose while adding distilled water into the filler. When the water starts to overflow, replace the cap but don't tighten it all the way. Start the engine and go watch for coolant coming from under that filler cap. When it does, tighten the cap fully. Proceed with the Degas bleed process.

Note: Do this with the heat on 90.
 
Thanks, I'll give it a try. I was just out there looking everything over and started the car again. I was watching the temp on the scanner. It slowly climbed as the car heated up. I heard the low speed fan come on while I was feeling the radiator. Half the radiator was still cold. the lower hose was cold as well. The temp was already at 223* and the fan went to hi speed. Radiator still cold. Tells me the thermostat is not opening or there is no flow. I have a air pocket by the thermostat, or the waterpump is crap. I can turn the heater on and the temp goes down.
 
I only paid $4k for the car, so I don't mind putting a little $$$ into it to make it right.

We're going to hold you to this statement.
I'll bring it back up in a few months ... It's going to be a love hate relationship, sad but true.
 
I know all to well about the Love Hate relationship thing. I use to mess with the old Chrysler Conquest/ Mitsubishi Starion. After owning 9 of those thing I moved own. Always something I was having to work on. They quit making those in '89 so parts were a real pain to find.
 
I used to love those cars. Those leather seats were really nice.
 
to be completely honest... I didn't know that car existed. I'm not sure I've ever said that before (within reason). I even worked for Chrysler for awhile...ouch.
 
Those cars were the S#!t back in the day. They handles great! Sad part is, my son wants one for his first car. He loves those things. If I found a nice one I'd probably buy it for him.
 
to be completely honest... I didn't know that car existed. I'm not sure I've ever said that before (within reason). I even worked for Chrysler for awhile...ouch.

They were Mitsubishi imports from (I believe) the late 70's.....
 
My LS was getting hot at idle. After checking everything and replacing some crap plastic, the thing that fixed my issue was the radiator. I was able to test it today sitting in traffic the temp fluctuated between 216* and 224* with the a/c set to 60*. I still need to replace the crappy new dorman degas tank and the aftermarket thermostat housing. (both installed by previous owner)

One other issue I have is the gas mileage sucks! This might not be an easy fix as these cars are so fun to drive! ;)
 
i suspect water pump? The impellers are known to go bad inside of those. They're made of plastic not metal.
 
By the way, if it helps any I had the same exact issue you did. And my mechanic, just out of curiosity decided to take the water pump out after trying everything and putting a new one on, and bingo. Worth a shot I guess
 
i suspect water pump? The impellers are known to go bad inside of those. They're made of plastic not metal.

I have a new waterpump.

I don't think I have an overheating problem anymore. Before the temp would reach 240* and stay there. Don't forget that the temp reading is from a cylinder head temp sensor. These measure the metal temp of the cylinder head. These will read higher than your normal coolant temp sensor located in a coolant passage. The reason they use the CHT is they are more accurate than engine coolant temp sensor.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
... The reason they use the CHT is they are more accurate than engine coolant temp sensor.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I haven't looked at mine a lot, but when I have its been around 200 F (around 95-100 outside). I'd say you probably still have a problem.
 
Hmm, I have a factory thermostat housing, degas bottle, degas bottle cap, and engine fill cap on order from Tasca. After those are installed the only thing not oem will be the radiator.

The thing that confuses me is the fan doesn't go to high speed until 228-230*. And It's running between 217-224.
 

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