Boiling in Degas Reservoir but coolant is 210 F.

I think you'd need to see what exactly isn't working. The hydraulic fan isn't all that loud. I don't really expect to hear it while driving. If the tech didn't listen for the fan until they shut the engine, they wouldn't hear the fan because the engine is off

If the fan does spin when the engine is running but never speeds up, that's the actuator

If the fan does not spin with the running engine, then it's the motor, pump, or fluid

I would be curious if the fan reservoir was topped off with coolant. Fan symbol=cooling system is a fairly common mixup
 
joegr said:
Judging from the posts on this forum, the fluid and the actuator are the most common problems, though not the only problems.

Is your fan spinning at all when the engine is running?
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Yes, it spins but I'm not thinking it spins on high when the temp is over the proper specifications
 
FDR said:
I think you'd need to see what exactly isn't working. The hydraulic fan isn't all that loud. I don't really expect to hear it while driving. If the tech didn't listen for the fan until they shut the engine, they wouldn't hear the fan because the engine is off

If the fan does spin when the engine is running but never speeds up, that's the actuator

If the fan does not spin with the running engine, then it's the motor, pump, or fluid

I would be curious if the fan reservoir was topped off with coolant. Fan symbol=cooling system is a fairly common mixup
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Thank Joegr and FDR for chiming in ...you both are giving me hope that this can be remedied...I so appreciate both your expertise on these cars it's still at the Techs shop I will be picking up Tuesday ...I will get back to you then with more information when I have the car in front of me and can see how fast the fan is actually running ...( Live Time )
 
Dutch,

With the color of the fluid in the pump you mentioned... in the long run you might end up replacing pump, actuator, (which is getting scarce), and fan motor.

It might be better, easier, cheaper to go with the electric conversion... and idler pully in place of the pump.

IIRC... Joe recently coached someone on the electric fan swap.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Dutch,

With the color of the fluid in the pump you mentioned... in the long run you might end up replacing pump, actuator, (which is getting scarce), and fan motor.

It might be better, easier, cheaper to go with the electric conversion... and idler pully in place of the pump.

IIRC... Joe recently coached someone on the electric fan swap.
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How's it going 04' Sport! I was waiting patiently for you to chime in ...knowing you usually only it up the Forum on Weekends...After doing some searching I think you and rgorke are pointing me in the right direction...The parts are scarce to say the very least...the actuator is damn near impossible to find...I see that Rockauto has a electric fan controller ...
LINCOLN > 2002 > LS > 3.9L V8 > Cooling System > Cooling Fan Controller
Price

FOUR SEASONS 35879 Adjustable; Push-In Type Info

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$31.99
will this allow me to install an electric fan and have it turn on to the temp of my liking? The only reason I don't want to go this route is I'm not electronically inclined by any means ...I know how to turn a wrench half-ass lol but I'm by no means an expert when it comes to electronics...unless there is a HOW TO HOOK UP AN ELECTRONIC FAN FOR DUMMIES book I'm going in blind and leary lol
 
IIRC... in a recent thread somebody asked about that controller and Joe pointed them in the right direction. Might have been Rgorke .

There was also another recent thread where a member converted to electric an the V6... and he used an idler pulley from an Escape, and I believe the original belt.

However... I'm not positive about an Idler pulley conversion on the V8.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
IIRC... in a recent thread somebody asked about that controller and Joe pointed them in the right direction. Might have been Rgorke .

There was also another recent thread where a member converted to electric an the V6... and he used an idler pulley from an Escape, and I believe the original belt.

However... I'm not positive about an Idler pulley conversion on the V8.
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O Boy! You're already speaking Greek! lol
 
04_Sport_LS said:
IIRC... in a recent thread somebody asked about that controller and Joe pointed them in the right direction. Might have been Rgorke .

There was also another recent thread where a member converted to electric an the V6... and he used an idler pulley from an Escape, and I believe the original belt.

However... I'm not positive about an Idler pulley conversion on the V8.
Click to expand...
I might just call my Mechanic and get a quote on this conversion ... After dropping the $$$ on transmission I don't want this Engine running hot by any means ... No I'm not going to drive it like a Granny going to church ...just know it's not good for ANY engine to run HOT ...
 
AmsterDutch said:
..I see that Rockauto has a electric fan controller ...
Click to expand...

In general, the fan controllers are not going to work with the gen II electric fan because it already has a controller built into the fan motor. You could build a converter to convert the gen I signal to the actuator to the gen II signal to the fan, or perhaps easier you could use an aftermarket controller with a Taurus fan (or similar fan that doesn't have a builtin speed controller.
 
joegr said:
In general, the fan controllers are not going to work with the gen II electric fan because it already has a controller built into the fan motor. You could build a converter to convert the gen I signal to the actuator to the gen II signal to the fan, or perhaps easier you could use an aftermarket controller with a Taurus fan (or similar fan that doesn't have a builtin speed controller.
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So can I get a universal aftermarket fan and run the four season controller that's on Rockauto? I was doing something I shouldn't again ....assuming :)
 
I "THINK" this is the idler pulley another member used on his V6... off an Escape.


XU3Z8678AB-FRO__ra_m.jpg


Don't know... because I have never opened the hood on a Gen 1 LS an physically looked at the cooling fan pump system.

The part number for the above pic is YS243 at RA
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Dutch,

You may have missed or ignored the following thread... but it might be helpful to you.

V8 Hydraulic to electric fan for $100. Taurus fan, Volvo controller, BMW temp switch.

So that takes care of the conversion to electric. Now the only thing to figure out... is an idler pulley and bracket that will fit the Gen 1 V8... and what size belt would be needed, (if the stock belt won't work).
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That is great Thread...Call me crazy but after reading the entire write up...it looks like just as much work as replacing the original Hydraulic fan :(
 
While the effort may be similar... the expense will be much less.

Not to mention some of the original parts are like hens teeth. You might be able to source them from a Jag dealer... but you better break out the grease.

Not to mention... that if Jag revised parts as much as Ford did over the years, (actually more), then fitment might be "trial and error" on special order parts.

Just thinking out loud.....
 
04_Sport_LS said:
This may also help... but again... it's for the V6. May or may not work on the V8... depending on location and bracketry.

How to Bypass Hydraulic Pump w/ V6?!?
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I'm going to heed Joe and FDR's advice and go after the Actuator I think I might have found one at a Salvage yard that I've dealt with in the past and had some good luck ...Like FDR said the fan spins with the engine on but doesn't speed up when it should so more than likely it's a bad actuator ...or I'm crossing my fingers it is ...I also will be changing out the Thermostat and DCCV ...UGH!!!! NOT AGAIN...I swear I'm a glutton for punishment lol both MotorCraft which will make me feel better
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Well in that case... you may want to read the following thread... in case you run into trouble getting the actuator out on your vehicle.

I linked page 3... but start with page one.


Replacing the cooling fan pump actuator
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Damn!!!! Where do you find this stuff? You're like a Google Engine I swear! lol Anyway yeah so what I heard is this...."
He was able to get this out for me. He said what he did was pound a socket over it and then it screwed out......"
I know that approach like the back of my hand living in the rust belt ..Midwest... LOL!
 
Well... for some in that thread... it was actually a bolt extractor that was used.

They have spiral flutes... similar but opposite to a drill bit... that bite into the bolt when trying to remove it. Evidently there is one the right size... that will grab hold of part of the actuator... if the whole thing doesn't come out on the first try.

But at that point if you're pounding a socket or extractor on the actuator... it's most likely gonna be junk... and is used primarily for getting a bad actuator out.

Keep in mind you could run into this trying to pull the boneyard actuator. Especially with the cold temps now. You might just want to pull the whole pump... and tell them you only need the actuator... but it wouldn't come out, (which may not be far from the truth).

Then first try the pump and actuator together, (might all still be good)... but if not, then you could gently heat the pump with a propane torch to get the actuator out.

As far as finding these threads... when things get slow around here... I get bored and do some back reading. Then if someone has an issue... sometimes I can recall a thread related to their problem.
 
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04_Sport_LS said:
Well... for some in that thread... it was actually a bolt extractor that was used.

They have spiral flutes... similar but opposite to a drill bit... that bite into the bolt when trying to remove it. Evidently there is one the right size... that will grab hold of part of the actuator... if the whole thing doesn't come out on the first try.

Keep in mind you could run into this trying to pull the boneyard actuator. Especially with the cold temps now. You might just want to pull the whole pump... and tell them you only need the actuator... but it wouldn't come out, (which may not be far from the truth).

Then first try the pump and actuator together, (might all still be good)... but if not, then you could gently heat the pump with a propane torch to get the actuator out.

As far as finding these threads... when things get slow around here... I get bored and do some back reading. Then if someone has an issue... sometimes I can recall a thread related to their problem.
Click to expand...
So what is the difference between just replacing the entire pump with actuator or replacing just actuator? I mean if it's a PITA to get the Actuator off the pump hwy not just replace the entire pump w/actuator? Is the pump even more difficult to replace?
 
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