As the title says I am having some battery issues. Last month I replaced the alternator then after that everything was fine. The problems began last saturday, I was driving fine made a few stops. I go to start the car and it kind of choked as in when the battery is weak. So I go home the following day the car starts the same way but it drives fine. I then put the volt meter on the car it reads at 12.3 while running I say ok let me go to autozone get a new battery. I did and it was still reading at 12.3. Last night was when the major issues happen the car started to make a low hum battery light and abs light came on. I turn off the head lights and park put back on the volt meter its reading at 11.5!. So what could it really be? Do I need a new alternator? or new battery cables? I am going to check to see if it could be the alternator fuse. Also wanted to point out one thing when I checked the battery this morning it only read 12.0 not 12.6. Maybe I have a parasitic drain? Thanks
Battery issues
- Thread starter Abbens
- Start date
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
My first guess is that you got a bad alternator straight out of the box. It happens. I'm sure you have a lifetime warranty on your alternator. Take it back, get another one and put it on and then see what happens with your voltage reading. What would you be losing by doing this besides a little gas money? Don't let them tell you it is testing good on the machine. Make them keep it and give you another.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
This could also be a problem due to bad air bags that keep over working the compressor and running down the battery. Shut off your air ride for a couple of days to verify.
mikemark8
Well-Known LVC Member
+1-
the 'stock' alternator is 120 amp for earlier Marks, and 130 amp for newer (OBDII"s), and that is marginal-if you use your auto lights, and do frequent starts/stops, it strains the ability of a marginal system to do what it is supposed to do.
Someone here (Tommy I think) noted once that a Mark has, on average almost 3x the wiring of a 'normal' car built in the 90's-96 miles worth. If you make it a point to check and clean grounds, connections, and even trickle charge your battery, you still have to fight the deterioration of the electrical system over the years. I bought a 220 amp alternator even though my 'stock' alternator was functioning, and I changed the battery when it was installed and that was a 1000 CCA battery-about 2 1/2 years ago. So far, so good, but mine is not a daily driver. It sits, sometimes for weeks, and I occasionally hook up a charger and 2 amp charge it. When I start it, I shut off the AC, I wait until the compressor does it's thing, and then I turn on the lights, not while they all are competing for power. Immaculate terminals and connections are essential. Nice that the alternator is so easy to replace, but if you buy the Advance Auto (or even a stock OEM) alternator, keep a spare in the trunk with tools.
Or, what worked for me, get one that actually keeps up with demands.
the 'stock' alternator is 120 amp for earlier Marks, and 130 amp for newer (OBDII"s), and that is marginal-if you use your auto lights, and do frequent starts/stops, it strains the ability of a marginal system to do what it is supposed to do.
Someone here (Tommy I think) noted once that a Mark has, on average almost 3x the wiring of a 'normal' car built in the 90's-96 miles worth. If you make it a point to check and clean grounds, connections, and even trickle charge your battery, you still have to fight the deterioration of the electrical system over the years. I bought a 220 amp alternator even though my 'stock' alternator was functioning, and I changed the battery when it was installed and that was a 1000 CCA battery-about 2 1/2 years ago. So far, so good, but mine is not a daily driver. It sits, sometimes for weeks, and I occasionally hook up a charger and 2 amp charge it. When I start it, I shut off the AC, I wait until the compressor does it's thing, and then I turn on the lights, not while they all are competing for power. Immaculate terminals and connections are essential. Nice that the alternator is so easy to replace, but if you buy the Advance Auto (or even a stock OEM) alternator, keep a spare in the trunk with tools.
Or, what worked for me, get one that actually keeps up with demands.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Same here but 2K more miles than you.
mikemark8
Well-Known LVC Member
My 96 has 125,000-does your suspension compressor run when you start it up? If so, I'd disconnect it since you don't need it, those compressors really crank when they fire up-
I do not know if it cranks up it doesn't make the inflating noise anymore. But maybe thats cause the air bags are gone. I also checked all the fuses they are good. So tomorrow I will see if pep boys has another alternator thanks
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Just make sure the "on / off" switch is off in the trunk and then you know the pump isn't coming on. I'm sure you would have noticed it by now if it was trying to pump up nothing.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
and fyi the batt should read in the 14.5 ish while the car is running, id say alt is bad or the alt fuse is
ssmoparviii
Dedicated LVC Member
+1
I was having sorta the same problem... Thank God I just shut down the air ride and add water to my battery but even then I still had some problems for a few days but all is well now.
I was having sorta the same problem... Thank God I just shut down the air ride and add water to my battery but even then I still had some problems for a few days but all is well now.
I know what the voltage level should be. What really gets me is that even when the battery sits overnight it still reads 12.0 in the morning. I doubt I have a dead cell the battery is 2 days old
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
.............................and thats why i said alt, or the fuse for it...............................
I took it the alternator back to pepboys they tested it and it passed. So I went back home reinstalled it started the car and it was running at 11.2volts. So while the car was running I unplugged the pug tail and then plugged it back in. When I did that, that must of fixed something cause then the car was running at 14.3. So I'm pretty sure I need a new pug tail. So if i need a new pug tail would I get one from a junkyard? or maybe ford dealership?
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
I almost asked you about the pigtail because when I replaced my alternator, I had to put a new one on mine too. The plastic was broke and showing the terminals.
Where did you get a new one?
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Off the 93 engine that was in the garage. The previous owner had just put on within the last year or so before he sold it. The car ended up getting wrecked by my dad and we pulled the engine and I snagged the new pigtail.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Icarus
Dedicated LVC Member
The alternators will not always put out 14.5 volt. Once they warm up the charge rate can go down a fair bit...
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
Before you go to far I would re-test your voltage again as when the pig tail is removed while charging the diodes normally get toasted.
Thanks I will get it from them
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
yes but at 11.2 the alt should be doing something :shifty:
