Battery Drain

Well I pulled the 25 and 30 fuse for a few minutes last night. The car started with no hesitation this morning after sitting for around 10 hours. I noticed that 30 fuse is one of the fuses for the FEM so I'm wondering if maybe it reset some sort of issue with it. I'm not positive the problem is solved, but hopefully it is. The 25 fuse is for the HIDs so I'm not sure how that could have helped lol. Hopefully its all good...
 
Whelp, got home at ten last night then started my car around 11 this morning with no hestiation (besides the "Hey its super cold" hesitation lol). Pulling 25 and 30 seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks a TON hinzy. Wish I knew exactly what was acting weird but at least the car is functioning lol
 
Stopsign002 said:
Whelp, got home at ten last night then started my car around 11 this morning with no hestiation (besides the "Hey its super cold" hesitation lol). Pulling 25 and 30 seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks a TON hinzy. Wish I knew exactly what was acting weird but at least the car is functioning lol
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Glad it worked, but it does suck for both of us not knowing why :confused::confused:
 
M4rk said:
Oh yes, that.

Drive 50mph for 15 seconds in D4, followed by 55mph for 20 seconds in D5. Then do 4-6 WOT runs 0-60mph (I can't remember how many exactly so just do 6 to be safe) and your battery procedure will reset.

Source: Certified Ford Master Technician (jj-rand)
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is this supposed to be funny?
bc the procedure you posted there sounds more like a portion of a drive cycle, not a battery replacement procedure, though you should probably run a drive cycle after disconnecting a battery too. so i guess youre being a little bit helpful, way to go big guy maybe someday you can get a 'LoL' after one of your comments

never said i was a ford master tech. not sure why you added an extra j and a hyphen in my name, but thats wrong too
 
Stopsign002 said:
Whelp, got home at ten last night then started my car around 11 this morning with no hestiation (besides the "Hey its super cold" hesitation lol). Pulling 25 and 30 seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks a TON hinzy. Wish I knew exactly what was acting weird but at least the car is functioning lol
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Happened to me again this morning... First really cold night in a while.
 
I don't know if anyone else heard of this but when I was in my highschool auto shop my teacher told us if you turn your headlights on for about 15-20 seconds before you start your car in real cold weather it gets the battery 'warmed' up for the starter draw
 
joegr, do you have this TSB?

BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS—SERVICE TIPS TSB 05-22-9
 
hinzy said:
joegr, do you have this TSB?

BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS—SERVICE TIPS TSB 05-22-9
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Yes, but it's too big to post here. PM your e-mail address.
For the most part, it's not going to help you unless you have the Ford NGS scan tool.
 
Gus_Mahn said:
My '03 LS8 had a 3 day 'till dead draw. The transmission portion of the PCM crapped out causing weird/violent shifts. The PCM was replaced because of trans issues, and the draw went away. I was never aware in which system my issue lay.
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BlackLS06 Was saying in another post that he is exhibiting weird shifts. Perhaps this could be related? He thinks his Tranny might go next because of these shifts. Maybe its his PCM? Perhaps a Flash with a good tune would resolve Both theses guys issues?
 
lincoln_zero said:
BlackLS06 Was saying in another post that he is exhibiting weird shifts. Perhaps this could be related? He thinks his Tranny might go next because of these shifts. Maybe its his PCM?
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Maybe. My '03 was shuddering in and out of fourth and slamming third. I took it in for repairs. First trans shop thought it was an electronic issue and told me to take it to the Ford dealer for diagnostics. $200 later the dealer says all is fine and wants to go into the trans. No way I wanted a $4000 trans, and the first trans shop said the pan was clean, so I took it to a second trans shop who rebuilt the trans then said it needed a PCM ($1800 trans, $400 PCM). The trans did always shift crappy and there were some symptoms of a failing torque converter, so I didn't feel too taken. The draw going away was a nice bonus.
 
I have this same problem what are these two (25,30)fuses for? something useless? I don't want to be taking out radiator fan fuses
 
oh I gotta put them back in I will try this hopefully it works
 
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lking said:
I have this same problem what are these two (25,30)fuses for? something useless? I don't want to be taking out radiator fan fuses
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this is for an 05 (i assume yall are talking about the fuse box in the trunk):
25: "P-J/B" (i cant think of what that stands for off the top my head)
30: "REM - Right rear window"
 
battery died again I took the car into a shop they tested the battery and said it needs to be replaced after all it is a 10 yr old battery
 
gotcha.

anyone have a theory on what exactly is goin on when the two fuses are pulled?
 
Hmmm, haven't run the LS in a couple of weeks, go to show it off last night to some guests and the darn battery was drained down somehow.
I do have the trunk off but I had disconnected the trunk switch by it's connector so the lights wouldn't stay on. Not sure why this LS is so subjective to battery drainage within 2 weeks. New battery as of last year. Last time it did this I had left the interior light switch on. That wasn't the case this time.

This known battery drain on the LS is rather irritating. You'd think you could leave a car sitting for a couple of weeks and not have your battery run down.

depressed.gif
 
BigRigLS said:
...I do have the trunk off but I had disconnected the trunk switch by it's connector so the lights wouldn't stay on. ...
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There's no need to do this. Reconnect the switch and leave it connected. The light will be switched off after a 10 or 20 minute time out. If you have replaced the trunk light with an LED light, it will glow slightly for another 10 to 20 minutes until the car goes to sleep. At that point, most of the power to most of the car is cut.
 
Yes I understand that but it was done with thoughts of not having the trunk lighting come on every time I work on the car.
This way, the lights just simply stay off for now until I get my trunk lid put back on. (out for paint)

still this doesn't explain that this LS can not sit longer than two weeks without the battery running down.

there is Standby and Sleep mode on this thing. it's 30 minutes until sleep mode.

My trunk LED lighting would normally go out by themselves after 30 minutes, verified this in a dark garage with the rear seats down, 30 min later LEDS out. Sleep mode is 30 minutes (at least it is on mine).

Doesn't really matter, is not the issue, trunk lighting was not on, something else is causing the battery to run down.

2 weeks of no start and battery is flat ... simply STUPID!

Not even going to bother looking into it, it's getting a charge and that's it.
 
It will go longer than two weeks (but probably not five or six). You have a problem. Current drain while in sleep mode should be less than 0.05A (50mA).
If yours can't go for two weeks, you either have a higher current drain, or a bad battery (reserve capacity has dropped too low).
 


Hmmm!?!? might need looking into afterall.
awww.gif


OEM battery, new .... but as you said, could very well be a bad unit.
I'm gonna have to add this one to the bottom of the list, too much to still get done.

Maybe someday (later) you could coach me along on how to measure correctly for a possible drain. No aftermarket stereo.


EDIT:
Might possibly also be from not being driven enough, it's been on jack stands since November 2013 (near 10 months now)
I don't always get a chance to run it for a bit every weekend.
 
You should hook it to a battery tender then. You would probably need to drive it for an hour to really recharge the battery.
 
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