Barney studdering

R

rays brother

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First thing is it takes a couple of turns to get the car started. It started this thing at the end of Carlisle weekend. Now the car has a real bad hesitation when I hit the gas. It seems when im goin up hills it just doesnt want to go but then it kicks in and goes but with puttering. When the car finnally quits and goes then I punch it a little it just doesnt want to go. Any help would be great.
 
Finnally got the filter replaced. Took it out for a drive, it still studders right at the beginning but then its fine after that. Check engine lite keeps kickin on and off. I put gas in it maybe well have to wait and c what happens.
 
is he still overheating too?...

Driller, when you guys burped him, did you notice the blue"spindle" (for lack of knowing what it is) in the very front, what is that?

We gotta get Barney running right.

Smooches.

Debi
 
MsM8tress said:
... did you notice the blue"spindle" (for lack of knowing what it is) in the very front, what is that?
Click to expand...

I love it when girls talk cars. :p

4.6L_timing_adjuster_md.jpg


That's a Steeda timing adjuster.
 
yup that's it...and you know me, I asked a few others (kept missing you) and they didn't know....

overheating, studdering.....connection? itz killin me he isn't behavin...lol but he is Ray's ;)

thanks Driller

MsM8
Drillers Groupie!!!!
 
this might be of no use to you but is the rubber gasket on the throttle body end of the intake. i know when i first got my mark back on the road i didnt have it on and OMG did she start hard and run like crap at idle till u stomped the gas she also got like 8MPG like that. just my 2 cents
 
That gasket on throttle body is good to go. Of course it still just doesnt wanna move. Deb im not sure if its still overheating, I havent had it out long enough to get that hot because of this other problem. Check engine light still comes on also. Im lost on this one.
 
If you're getting a check engine light - check the codes.

Look here if you don't have a code reader.

Give us something to work with! :)
 
Driller I did a do it yourselfd test on the car this morning. I think I have these right 31,33. I did it a couple of times and the first time I did it it blinked 3 times real fast. According to the book it says something about an egr valve and some other things about the egr valve. Dont remember left everything up in the garage go figure.

Check engine light does come on and it still studders. Im lost on this one.
 
I did the test again and it came up with 3 times real fast then 189 twice. But the 33,31 did not come back up.
 
Driller gave up a good website. I will slide in my cd and see what is has on the EGR.

Most all are at work now Dad (where I should be!!!!), give em a few and they will all be checking in tonight.

Smooches !!! brb
 
hummm... my cd is for 96 and above, not sure how much help it'd be.

I know you can all click and drill down to the explaination of the codes but I put em below for ya..., can ya get a new valve and check it out?

31-PFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.
both key on and engine off and key on engine running

33-PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts.
continuous memory

189-Left side still lean, at richest adaptive limit, during part throttle.
continuous memory
 
Those numbers usually come from a loose gas cap on OBD2 cars (31 & 33) for the most part as they relate to evaporative system.
 
Dropped the car off at the shop to see if they can figure anything else out. They called earlier to tell me the fuel filter needed changed but thats allready been done. So now they wanted to keep the car overnight to work on it some more tomorrow I guess. Ill keep everyone updated and see what goes from here.


Roadboss those codes (31,32) said something about an egr sensor or something like that. When I get home from work 2morrow ill let you know what it meant. Remember its for a '93.
 
Hey, I'm not working, I'm on vacation. :D

Typical EGR codes... I supposed the EGR could be stuck open causing unusual drivability issues. Usually the EGR sticks closed or the EGR passages plug up causing only minor mileage issues. Normally the EGR opens during coasting to burn exhaust gases during no load cycles.

The EGR valve is pretty basic and vacuum controlled via a vacuum solenoid. The DPFE sensor tells the PCM the EGR is working. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks and test the solenoid. You can clean the EGR valve and/or passages. Replace the DPFE sensor if it is still giving codes.
 
Have you ever changed plugs and wires ?
I know you getting codes but sometimes the simple stuff gets missed.
Also more then one thing can be wrong.
Thats what happens to me with these darn cars.
It just sounds like you have a miss.
It is also hard to tell when the wires go bad because they could be bad were they go into the valve cover making it hard to tell.
 
Well I did take it to a mechanic on tue, and at first they thought it was the fuel filter. I allready changed that a couple weeks ago. so they wanted to keep the car and now they say its the fuel pump by the way the car is acting.


Ford nut I no he changed the wires and plugs but im not really sure when Ray changed them last. Im just glad its not the car i have to rely on everyday for work. When i get a chance ill have to look into the wires and all of that good stuff.
 
This weekend I cleaned out the MAF. Took it for a ride, it ran allright. It was still boggin down a little. Then I went back out in it and it ran like it did before. LIKE CRAP. Cleaned it out again today and it ran like yesterday. Good and then bad. Could it be the fuel pump?
 
I'd do the pump, if theres any question and it has any miles over 100k I'd just go ahead and do it. The nice thing about doing the pump on your terms is that you can run it empty of gas, makes it a lot easier to drop the tank.

Toss in a walboro and maybe a new fuel pressure regulator at the same time.

If you really want to know whether or not the pump is actually getting weak you should get the pressure tested and see if it really is weak or not.
 
kustomizingkid said:
If you really want to know whether or not the pump is actually getting weak you should get the pressure tested and see if it really is weak or not.
Click to expand...

Ditto. If it's the fuel pump causing it to run like crap, it will show up on the fuel pressure test. Make sure to do a live test. Hook up a pressure guage and tape it to the windshield and have a passenger see what it does when you drive it WOT. If it's the fuel pump, the pressure will drop like a rock when it should be maxing out at almost 40 psi under load.
 
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