ballast works cheaper $$$

dalton

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www.amazing1.com/profneon.htm
product #dc45
also ask for 2 diodes
cost $40

it works great just installed mine it has 2 wires coming off ballast red and black wire.cut the plug off old ballast which has black,green,red wires on it and spliced as follows.the black wire off of ballast i grounded it to green screw on deck lid,the black wire on plug i grounded to green screw on decklid,i told them what i was doing and they sent me free 2 heavier diodes,i put one diode on the green wire,i put one doide on red wire,then wired each of them to the red wire on the ballast,they had a black line on the diode i put it towards the ballast,the other way nothing worked..its nice and bright lights up with brakes,with the headlights on then hit breaks lights up good.very happy sorry glitch $60 cheaper ...
 
Yes, it most certainly is a super cheap alternative to the OEM ballast and slightly cheaper than the Glitch inverter. Though I'm not sure the different range in output, but to me, the neons seems a lot brighter on both of Marks.

A couple "elitist" from here have told me that it would never, NEVER work in two phase operation neon. I bought 2 DC45 a while back and haven't had issues besides figuring out where to use the diode when I finally decided to install it. As you and I have experience though, it certainly works both phases great and seems brighter than stock!

Congratulations on the easy fix!
 
wow! thats great info! do you have the part # for the 2 diodes thats needed? & if possible do you have any pics? i think im going to go this route asap
 
wow! thats great info! do you have the part # for the 2 diodes thats needed? & if possible do you have any pics? i think im going to go this route asap

They send diodes/capacitors along with the inverter. If for some they don't, just give them a call and they should send them out to you right quick.
 
Don't mean to bump up an older thread but I prefer doing that than making a new one. I was going to go this route, even bought the DC-45 until I opened the box and there were no instructions, just the device in the box with cushioning. Found out here that it's only a single stage, found out from someone else here that I needed diodes, etc.

I went with a used neon ballast from someone selling it along with other parts on the LOD forum. I replaced the blown ballast with the used one, $80, and my light works again.

BUT I'd like to be able to do THIS repair for when that used one goes out in the future. With that said, how about a decent write-up with pics and step-by-step instead of "take this wire and put it here", "get this diode and wire it here", etc. What diode or diodes are needed, what voltage? Done right this could be another alternate to getting neons to light up again. I'm all eyes and ears so how about a nice tech article?

ADDED: Has anyone taken a stock Sylvania ballast, opened it up, and see what makes it "tick"? Can the internal parts be replaced to make it a working ballast again?
 
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i was looking at that site over 2 years ago and i also was gonna give it a shot but gave up because i had so little time to do any testings...i went ahead and bought a Glitch ballast
 
ballast

Just got mine from them this week. Called and had it the next day, people were very helpfull. Installed yesterday and works great but has only one level of brightness like others posted. People there told me they will be doing a install instruction post on their website because there has been so many requests. Very happy for the $50 bucks I spent. Thanks Bruce
 
<< ...they will be doing a install instruction post on their website because there has been so many requests. >>

www.amazing1.com/profneon.htm

Well I'll be looking out for that!

Until they do get some specific instructions here's what they have there now:

<< Some automobiles use neon transformers to power brake lights, directionals, and rear tail lights. We have had customers who have had these systems fail only to find that replacement costs are $400-700, and they have discovered that an easy fix is the use of 2 of our DC-series automobile transformers connected with diodes, which we sell here. Please note you, the customer, must know the electrical hookup of your vehicle, that we do not provide this information and we cannot guarantee performance with your vehicle as we have no idea of its design parameters. The diodes with which our customers have had success (600V 30A “TO247 ultra-fast” for making a 2-step ballast) are available here for purchase. You will need 1 diode per transformer. >>

Their part number for the diode is RURG3060, and the transformer/ballast is DC45.
 
I'm truly thinking about this now... Has anyone else ordered it? I can't afford buying anything in the next 2 weeks or so but mid March I might buy it. I want my neon working once & for all. I've owned the car for 7 months now. I should've had that neon working by now.
 
I bought my DC45 in late November but it's been sitting in my garage. I'm going to use it as a back-up to the replacement original Sylvania ballast I bought in early February, once the instructions/how-to comes out.

The Gen 2s really need to have the neon lights working - it sets the car apart and looks so cool.
 
I received a second e-mail from amazing1.
I will recant my first post, they want to help get this figured out.

I understand the wiring from the OP.

Still not sure if you can make one ballast a 2 step ballast using diodes or if you need two DC45's
Waiting on e-mail....
 
What if you used a DC45, for the brake light, and a DC20 for the running light?

Seems to me that it could work, but I might be completely wrong...
 
From LOL
TonyBrooklyn
A diode costs like 50 cents if you contact the people that sold you the transformer. Explain to them what your doing they will send you one for free provided you send them a stamped return address envelope with you request. I know this because many that have used this trans former have told me. As far as explaining the wiring i don't know how else to say it. Its really easy if you have no basic electrical knowledge. Then a plug and play set up is always the way to go. All you need is the DC-45 to make this work it comes with instructions. The two black wires coming out of it get attached to your neon light one wire on each side. The harness in your car has a ground wire as i recall and a taillight power wire brake-light power wire 3 wires total. The transformer has two wires. The ground or black wire gets connected to the ground on the transformer. The taillight power wire gets connected to the other wire i believe its red on the transformer. The brake-light wire gets connected there as well. With the diode, you see either of these wires powers {lights} the neon light. The diode prevents the taillights from back feeding the brake lights and visa versa. So easy a caveman could do it! Don't be intimidated you can do it!
This is how I will wire it when it shows up with the diode.
Will post pics ect...
Thanks for the link Scallywag
 
Well I'll be waiting for those pics then, and curious to know if both the tail light and brake light come on.

His explanation was a little vague for me and since I didn't have the diode, nor when he first posted I don't recall seeing any info about the diode I didn't do anything with the transformer. He mentioned the 2 black wires getting connected to the 2 wires sending the signals to light up each stage. He didn't say which wire, green or white, goes to which black wire, top black or bottom black. Nor did he mention exactly where to connect the diode, which wire to which part of the diode, nor anything about polarity. If there was a pic or two it would have been better.

So I left well enough alone and bought a used ballast which works great. For now.
 
OK I received the dc45 and the diode today.
I have $50 into this.
First of all, the ballast will not fit in the stock location.
I had to take my die grinder and notch out the trunk to fit it.
Its wide.
Wired it as posted, and yes it works....with one level of brightness.
Lights off...hit brakes it lights up.
Lights on hit brakes it stays at the same brightness.
It is not a two step ballast.
Diodes will not make it a two step ballast.
The only thing the 6 amp diode does is stop back feed, from what I can tell.

What if you used a DC45, for the brake light, and a DC20 for the running light?

Seems to me that it could work, but I might be completely wrong...

I called them and spent some time on the phone, we talked about this, I remembered your posting.
He thought it might work.....it might also fry a ballast or worse.
Who knows :confused:

Also if I buy dc20, I will have to notch the trunk opening more and also pay another $23 buck's plus shipping.

IMHO you would be better off spending another $20 dollars and getting a Glitch while you can.
It fits, you can adjust it, it is a two step ballast.
He also suggested I try another 6 amp diode I will give it a shot, but honestly I don't see it changing the brightness.
I installed the one I have on both 12 volt feeds.
"Running lights, Brake lights"
I saw no change in brightness.

The only reason I am even giving this a shot is I feel one day you won't be able to buy a glitch.

I guess...order a dc20...at worst I fry everything ..... I will go back after the led project.
 
Kinda Glad

OK I received the dc45 and the diode today.
I have $50 into this.
First of all, the ballast will not fit in the stock location.
I had to take my die grinder and notch out the trunk to fit it.
Its wide.
Wired it as posted, and yes it works....with one level of brightness.
Lights off...hit brakes it lights up.
Lights on hit brakes it stays at the same brightness.
It is not a two step ballast.
Diodes will not make it a two step ballast.
The only thing the 6 amp diode does is stop back feed, from what I can tell.



I called them and spent some time on the phone, we talked about this, I remembered your posting.
He thought it might work.....it might also fry a ballast or worse.
Who knows :confused:

Also if I buy dc20, I will have to notch the trunk opening more and also pay another $23 buck's plus shipping.

IMHO you would be better off spending another $20 dollars and getting a Glitch while you can.
It fits, you can adjust it, it is a two step ballast.
He also suggested I try another 6 amp diode I will give it a shot, but honestly I don't see it changing the brightness.
I installed the one I have on both 12 volt feeds.
"Running lights, Brake lights"
I saw no change in brightness.

The only reason I am even giving this a shot is I feel one day you won't be able to buy a glitch.

I guess...order a dc20...at worst I fry everything ..... I will go back after the led project.

READING all this makes me glad I have a Gen 1,,,WOW
 
Not a 2-step ballast, I found that out AFTER I ordered the DC-45 and before it arrived. I too am thinking the same thing about the Glitch ballast.

How come no one ever opened up a failed stock ballast, had a look inside and simply replaced any burned out parts? Can that even be done?
 
Well I'll be waiting for those pics then, and curious to know if both the tail light and brake light come on.

His explanation was a little vague for me and since I didn't have the diode, nor when he first posted I don't recall seeing any info about the diode I didn't do anything with the transformer. He mentioned the 2 black wires getting connected to the 2 wires sending the signals to light up each stage. He didn't say which wire, green or white, goes to which black wire, top black or bottom black. Nor did he mention exactly where to connect the diode, which wire to which part of the diode, nor anything about polarity. If there was a pic or two it would have been better.

So I left well enough alone and bought a used ballast which works great. For now.

101656-psp.jpg


Why do people pretend to be helpless?

The wiring isn't rocket science. If anything, you should've already figured out how to wire the inverter just by looking at how the OEM ballast was hooked up to the neon. I don't understand how you cannot assert for yourself the wiring given that the makeup of the OEM ballast and the DC45 are kind of identical accept for the 3rd green power wire that is missing from the DC45.

The inverter can be made into a two phase ballast by hooking up the diode to the brake wire and then to the one red wire coming out of the DC45, which is where the green power wire gets hooked up to as well. The vendor has even updated their listing of the DC inverters which indicates that success in making it two step is done by using their ultra fast diodes.

You guys being more pros with this car more than any other group of people should be having no difficulty in wiring this apparatus.
 
Well then how about posting a pic of the completed wiring instead of the facepalm?

I didn't want to blow any more fuses or the DC-45 ballast. Notice how I did indicate that I still have it and will use it in the future. For instance the diode: which end goes to the red, which end goes elsewhere? Does it really matter?

<< ...the makeup of the OEM ballast and the DC45 are kind of identical accept for the 3rd green power wire that is missing from the DC45. >>
I got that.

Which color is the brake wire? Which color is the running light?

ADDED: I saw this, added recently on the vendor's website:

Some automobiles use neon transformers to power brake lights, directionals, and rear tail lights. We have had customers who have had these systems fail only to find that replacement costs are $400-700, and they have discovered that an easy fix is the use of 2 of our DC-series automobile transformers connected with diodes, which we sell here. Please note you, the customer, must know the electrical hookup of your vehicle, that we do not provide this information and we cannot guarantee performance with your vehicle as we have no idea of its design parameters. The diodes with which our customers have had success (600V 30A “TO247 ultra-fast” for making a 2-step ballast) are available here for purchase. You will need 1 diode per transformer: RURG3060 - 600V 30A TO247 Ultra-Fast Diode .....$9.95

DoubleFacePalm.jpg


datapicard.jpg
 
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Well then how about posting a pic of the completed wiring instead of the facepalm? I looked on the vendor's website and there are no precise details that I could find. I didn't want to blow any more fuses or the DC-45 ballast. Notice how I did indicate that I still have it and will use it in the future. For instance the diode: which end goes to the red, which end goes elsewhere? Does it really matter?

<< ...the makeup of the OEM ballast and the DC45 are kind of identical accept for the 3rd green power wire that is missing from the DC45. >>
I got that.

Which color is the brake wire? Which color is the running light?

The website details next to the DC inverter listings the diode you need to make it two step ballast. As for your colored wires it, may be different color coded, so you'll have to find out for yourself. I say that because on my 97 Prairie Tan, the colors are Black/Green/Red, but on my other 97 Navy Blue, the wires are Black/Brown/Red.

I say green for brake because that's what it is on my Prairie Tan. All you do is hook up the diode to the brake light wire and then splice it with the regular tail light wire which then connects to the red wire from the DC45. That's it.

If you can't figure out which is which, I'd suggest turning the key to the ON position and switching the lights on. Once the lights are on, put a voltage tester like this...

car-dc624v-alligator-clip-electrical-circuit-wire-tester-121951n.jpg


...into the Red/Green slots of the harness on the trunk lid. Whichever one makes the tester light up right away is regular lights, the one that doesn't light up is the brake. To activate the tester on the brake wire, someone has to press the brake as you make contact.

Come on guy!
 

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