Bad rack again after 10k ....lowered... they wont cover

LsUnV2

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so i had my rack replaced 3 months ago and now its bad again.. they are blaming it on being lowered... i dont think so .. also tires are feathering pretty good... what you guys think BS?
 
so i had my rack replaced 3 months ago and now its bad again.. they are blaming it on being lowered... i dont think so .. also tires are feathering pretty good... what you guys think BS?

Bring up the Magnuson Moss Act and go from there.
 
Bring up the Magnuson Moss Act and go from there.

Then they will claim lowering caused undo stress on the rack. It's still worth a try, though. Make them prove lowering caused the undo stress.
 
they cant prove it,, its bs... then they tried to charge me a diagnosis fee.. i told them to get :q:q:q:qed as i already had my keys and drove off
 
they cant prove it,, its bs... then they tried to charge me a diagnosis fee.. i told them to get :q:q:q:qed as i already had my keys and drove off

Sorry, but a diagnostic fee isn't unreasonable. Considering your exchange with them I'd say you're the one who's screwed. Looks like you'll be buying a new rack.
 
ya i guess .. ill just buy a cheap ass napa one...... I may take my car 30 minutes west to champaign and have the warranty work done there.. its worth a shot, the service manager told me nothing is in the computer about them voiding my warranty. so we will see.......if not how hard is it to pull the rack myself and swap in new one??? also when i get it back together is it safe to drive to the alignment shop or will i have to tow it ?
 
I don't know if bringing your car here to Champaign is a great idea... the service managers at worden martin have horrible attitudes and they talk down to you and I can't prove this but they ruined my Mercury back in 03...it went into their shop needing a fuel pump and it came out needing an engine.
 
having the car lowered in no way caused undo stress on the rack; I'd push this issue as far as you have to to get the results you deserve.
 
having the car lowered in no way caused undo stress on the rack; I'd push this issue as far as you have to to get the results you deserve.

Thank you for this post. I had my steering rack replaced just before my warranty was out. Saved me like 900 bucks. I just lowered my car, now read this thread, and got worried enough to consider swapping back to stock springs.

LsUnV2, The rack is not a cheap part by any means, and you need a dealership to set up the steering wheel sensor - I believe that's what they called it. I bought my car used from a GM dealer who took it on a trade. They had to send the car down to the FLM dealer to set the sensor.
 
Sounds like they screwed it up, like always. And don't want to foot the bill for their screwup. I've had many run is with those tards. My 99 150 had the rotors that warped every 6000 miles. So I would have them turned every 6000 on warranty. Had them turned, they put the back one together wrong, cracked my rear end backing up, Had the whole rear end changed under warranty, they didn't add friction modifier, blew the rear end again. When they changed the carrier out they never changed the bearing from the failure, axle seals cut wear marks in my shafts and I had to have the shafts replaced and seals changed. Had the front one's turned and they broke my o2 sensor off. Only reason I has no problems getting stuff fixed was my dad went to school with the owner and my grandpa and his dad were friends. Long story short the manager could have saved 6 grand if his guys knew what the hell they were doing. That manager hated me, he don't work their any more for some reason.
 
did they flush the pump and lines to remove contaminates from the first rack failure? the pump could be the real cause too. for the cost of the pump, its worth replacing it to ensure a clean system.
 
I'm trying to picture the setup in my mind and I can't come up with any reason why the lowering would have anything to do with the rack. The angle changes slightly, but the tie-rod ends should easily compensate for that. It's only a few degrees difference at most right? As far as the force needed to turn the wheels it would be very nearly the same. I assume too close to be able to measure easily. If Fords tolerances are that precise the rack wouldn't be able to hold up in normal driving circumstances anyway. In the end I don't think the rack would be able to notice the difference between a lowered or not lowered car.

Just my opinion having never messed with the steering before.
 
thats what i told them.. i said that the angle at which the tie rods have been moved to due to lowering is barely at all.. i also said that this angle is exceeded all the time in normal suspension travel... i also brought up that no matter what a rack should not go out in 3 months. or 10k miles.... they suck.. then i said i know ford has said to not do so much warranty work, service manager told me that, and the bitch said that their stock is so great now and bla bla bla.... SUCK it..they said racks dont normally go bad on LS's.....ha both mine went bad on both cars.... they are :q:q:q:qing me but im well greased i guess
 
how do you know if your steering rack is bad??

i hear a popping sound from the front left of car. if i reverse and then drive forward, i hear a pop like something is not tightened like it should be..i assumed the ball joint was going bad because its what it wounded like to me... also at a stand still if i crank the wheel to left or right i can produce this popping sound as well.... they also said that my tires are feathering as well .... they said rack so i guess rack... im gonna have it aligned somewhere and see if they see this play in my rack or elsewhere
 
Hopefully it is just a bad (or loose) ball joint at a tie rod end? Don't trust stealerships for anything!

I'd be inclined to find an independent shop, get car on a standard lift, get someone to sharply cut wheel from side to side and get underneath yourself and see where the popping is coming from.
 
Check the struts....the top mounts normally pop when they dry out.

The top bracket (mount) cost 50.32 retail and LVC is $37.74 each.
 
FYI. Bought a new Ford steering rack for my 2005 Lincoln LS and found out I did not need this part so I have it for sale. Let me know if you are interested.
Like to recover some of my cost and asking $250 OBO. TIA Jake
 
thats what i told them.. i said that the angle at which the tie rods have been moved to due to lowering is barely at all.. i also said that this angle is exceeded all the time in normal suspension travel... i also brought up that no matter what a rack should not go out in 3 months. or 10k miles....

EXACTLY!! Also, a Ford repair has a 12 month/12K mile warranty so if they replaced it, it is warrantied by them. That could why they are being jerks about it.
 
EXACTLY!! Also, a Ford repair has a 12 month/12K mile warranty so if they replaced it, it is warrantied by them. That could why they are being jerks about it.

they are saying ford will want to know why it failed and they will then have to inform them that car has been modified.... bla bla .. took to a mechanic friend and verified the rack is sloppy but he says its the inner tie rod... i believe there was a write up on a gen 1 ls who did his inner tie rodsm can this be done on the gen 2??
 
they are saying ford will want to know why it failed and they will then have to inform them that car has been modified.... bla bla .. took to a mechanic friend and verified the rack is sloppy but he says its the inner tie rod... i believe there was a write up on a gen 1 ls who did his inner tie rodsm can this be done on the gen 2??

Seems like it would be. It's not that complicated.
 
Don't trust stealerships for anything!

*SLAPS THE BRIT*
anywhooo id check for the rack itself being loose from the subframe, and +2 on the inner tierod end. just look at all the connections between the car and the rack and have someone rock the wheel while your looking
 
Lol. Sorry chicken! :p

*don't trust stealerships with the exception of those that chicken and Max are affiliated with*

There ya go, that's better! :D
 

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