Bad rack again after 10k ....lowered... they wont cover

As far as dealerships are concerned I think it is important to consider that they are made up of a bunch of individuals. There is one near me that I would never go to if I wanted to purchase a vehicle becuase I happened to overhear a sales meeting one day (long story). The bottom line is that it is the sales manager's policy to lie, cheat and steal if it will get a deal done. The stuff he was suggesting made me sick.

The service side of that same dealership is a completely different story. My good friend works there and he is one of the most trustworthy and honest people I've ever known.
 
LsUnV2 said:
i hear a popping sound from the front left of car. if i reverse and then drive forward, i hear a pop like something is not tightened like it should be..i assumed the ball joint was going bad because its what it wounded like to me... also at a stand still if i crank the wheel to left or right i can produce this popping sound as well.... they also said that my tires are feathering as well .... they said rack so i guess rack... im gonna have it aligned somewhere and see if they see this play in my rack or elsewhere
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I can almost guarantee you that it is a loose lower control arm. Mine would do the same thing for over a year. I replace almost everything you can think of with no results. Luckily I had access to a lift and was able to duplicate it on the lift with the help of a friend. Check to see if the one of the bolts are loose. Mine was the driver side front a-arm, back bolt. They are slotted to be adjustable, I guess for doing alignment of the front end.
 
rainjacks said:
As far as dealerships are concerned I think it is important to consider that they are made up of a bunch of individuals. There is one near me that I would never go to if I wanted to purchase a vehicle becuase I happened to overhear a sales meeting one day (long story). The bottom line is that it is the sales manager's policy to lie, cheat and steal if it will get a deal done. The stuff he was suggesting made me sick.

The service side of that same dealership is a completely different story. My good friend works there and he is one of the most trustworthy and honest people I've ever known.
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this is very true! i like to be able to say I am a honest tech, if i recommend anything on a car i have no problems showing the customer the needed part/service. now the other dealership i worked at before this one.......(not too bad but) the service manager told us if a car was under warranty to do a little write up on a leaking ps or trans line clamp, ford looks at warranty averages (total dollar amount vs # of tickets) needless to say he got caught by ford and was fired. there was another shop (small independent) i worked at as a kid :rolleyes: yeah this place was crooked, lets just say i left cuz i didnt want to be associated with that place

thats better 93 lolol
 
im buying a rack off of a member here for a good price and im gonna have it put in and im also gonna order some inner tie rods to see if thats what went bad on the old new rack lol.. i guess if thats it i have a spare rack with only 10k on it...
 
id swap the inners first, so you will know if that was the prob, it not rip the inners off and you will have a spare set of those.
 
im getting a new rack from a member here and it has been sitting for a bit.. If there is no fluid in it when i get it do you guys think that the seals would have dried out? if so do they sell a kit for the seals.. ?
 
i wouldnt worry about it, as for the kit, i dont think theres any available. the ford racks have fluid in them in the box, and its a pia to get all the fluid out.
 
Ok got my rack today and its supposed to be a ford rack but i see no ford or any other indication of who the manufacturer is.....this isnt right is it?? and is a reman no name brand even worth putting on?
 
I had the rack replaced under warranty at about 46k ( 83K now), have had no problems with it since, It was leaking thats why they replaced it.
 
Yeah, it is entirely possible that there isn't a logo on the OEM rack. I don't know for sure. Are there any numbers on it at all?
 
LsUnV2 said:
im buying a rack off of a member here for a good price and im gonna have it put in and im also gonna order some inner tie rods to see if thats what went bad on the old new rack lol.. i guess if thats it i have a spare rack with only 10k on it...
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Let me know if this falls through. I found a craigslist ad with a rack for cheap.
 
rainjacks said:
Yeah, it is entirely possible that there isn't a logo on the OEM rack. I don't know for sure. Are there any numbers on it at all?
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i talked to the seller i bought it from and he swears its a ford rack, i called ford and they said that parts alot of times will not have a ford stamped on them and they just called me and said its done with no probs, so im good with it .... good seller he gets ..
 
well i still here the sound i was hearing so i guess i have a rack for sale with less than 10,000 miles on it :mad: ....stupid ass people....
 
ok so i got the rack replaced... the car does drive better and the tires arent humming as loud..... i still notice slightly the bumping sound that i heard to begin with , although not as pronounced its annoying.. i paid to have this fixed.. is there a was to determine if the old rack is bad??? i have had the steering shaft replaced before as i had this sound once before and it seemed to fix it...I can produce this sound if i shake the steering wheel back and forth .....its almost like there is play in the steering .. bad u joint in steering shaft is all i can think........if not i guess i just replaced a perfect rack....
 
well that sux man.....onlything i can say is have someone rock the wheel to make the noise and just look for movement through the all the joints. dunno on a LS but many fords have a issue with the "steering column boot" (the big seal the column runs through on the firewall) becoming dry and making some odd noises, id start simple and spray the hell out of that with silicone spray.
 
un real... it was loose bolts on the crash bars underneath the car ... o and guess what ... they were being nice and didnt charge me for tightening them.. but bo refund for labor on the rack.... what should i do to get my money back?
 
bitch like hell, they said it was the rack, you provided a new rack and the noise was still present and the whole problem was some loose bolts that they overlooked, depending how much you bitch anything is poss. be sure to point out that this was a prob before and a rack was chunked at it then too.
 
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