B&M shift improver???

IMO, not worth it even if they sent it to me for free. J-Mod is where it's at for under $10 and some time. A J-Mod will help lengthen the life of the trans, shift into reverse better, 1-2 will be better, 2-3 will be better.

"recalibrating the hydraulic system" really isn't going to do much good when the fluid still has small holes to go through on the separator plate.
 
Don Pfau, that was my first thought also. Thanks for the advise. I will look into the Baumann Engineering. anyone know where to look and a price idea? I just really dont wanna tear into the tranny again
 
I've read good think about the Baumann but my 93 has a Dirty Dog valve body in it, that I am very happy with. But it cost more, I think I paid a little over 250. and a core deposit until I sent mine back. For the second generation 98 LSC I purchased a Dirty Dog divider plate that is suppose to be better put about the same as a J-Mod. The plate was about 100. http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/
 
Don Pfau said:
I've read good think about the Baumann but my 93 has a Dirty Dog valve body in it, that I am very happy with. But it cost more, I think I paid a little over 250. and a core deposit until I sent mine back. For the second generation 98 LSC I purchased a Dirty Dog divider plate that is suppose to be better put about the same as a J-Mod. The plate was about 100. http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/
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I purchased the separator plate style shift kit from SCP. It came in a Factory Tech box. The shifts are great on my car. Firm under light throttle and nasty under WOT. The car will bark 3rd gear.
 
I also bought my first one SCP then I learned they were from Dirty Dog and its cheaper if you skip the middle man.
 
It's all the same and under $10 if you just drill the holes yourself. OP, if you go with anything other than what you posted to begin with, you have to open it up either way. Just J-Mod it, put in two new separator plate gaskets and put the valve body back together and then back into the trans. Very simple to do but if you have deep pockets, then go ahead and buy what you can do yourself. It's just fluid.... With a pan drop, you might lose 5 quarts. If you want to go the easy route, buy the B&M and expect shudder very soon.
 
Yep, Alan is a good guy. Knows his chit when it comes to a 4R70W, and T-birds. I live about 30 mins from him.
 
did my jmod before these pre drilled "kits" were available.

iirc it was about 60 bucks with both gaskets, new accumulator pistons, and all 4 springs.
 
doesn't matter what valve body kit, j mod, whatever it wont feel like much without a change in line pressure via chip or tune. had mine built with their version of a shift improver kit didnt feel like anything but a boost in pressure had the stock rear kicking sideways at WOT 1-2 shift and a good grab into 3rd.
 
the1andonlyGR81 said:
doesn't matter what valve body kit, j mod, whatever it wont feel like much without a change in line pressure via chip or tune. had mine built with their version of a shift improver kit didnt feel like anything but a boost in pressure had the stock rear kicking sideways at WOT 1-2 shift and a good grab into 3rd.
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JMOD, blue oval chip, 10% LESS line pressure, sideways into 2nd on 275s with a posi, and throws your head against the headrest on the 2-3. (i have chirped the 2-3, but not with my new, better tires) line pressure is not the end all be all of shift firmness.
 
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the1andonlyGR81 said:
doesn't matter what valve body kit, j mod, whatever it wont feel like much without a change in line pressure via chip or tune. had mine built with their version of a shift improver kit didnt feel like anything but a boost in pressure had the stock rear kicking sideways at WOT 1-2 shift and a good grab into 3rd.
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j-mod, no changes to line pressure, stock tune DZA1 ecu.

both with stock 3.27s and 3.55s would go sideways into 2nd and scratch 3rd
 
chris2523 said:
JMOD, blue oval chip, 10% LESS line pressure, sideways into 2nd on 275s with a posi, and throws your head against the headrest on the 2-3. (i have chirped the 2-3, but not with my new, better tires) line pressure is not the end all be all of shift firmness.
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vr4 said:
j-mod, no changes to line pressure, stock tune DZA1 ecu.

both with stock 3.27s and 3.55s would go sideways into 2nd and scratch 3rd
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you guys are both gen 1 i guess something amiss there, but there are differences in cpu for shifting, chris is running 4.10 but im not sure which direction line pressure went but it shifted like no change with just modded valve body, the settings on shift are stock, mild, firm, hard, race. in race its just NOT streetable if your in traffic and let your foot off the gas it drops into gear with the sound of a street mailbox being dropped off a 100 story building. left them all at mild shifted flawlessly around town yadda, yadda, will chirp when provoked. on race it moves the points and force to snap your neck in overdrive. but thats the advantage of having the laptop in car availability to change on the fly. but thats all in the tune. there are signifigant differences in gen1 + 2 without a doubt, but now transmission is coming out when i strip car in next two weeks.
 
the1andonlyGR81 said:
doesn't matter what valve body kit, j mod, whatever it wont feel like much without a change in line pressure via chip or tune. had mine built with their version of a shift improver kit didnt feel like anything but a boost in pressure had the stock rear kicking sideways at WOT 1-2 shift and a good grab into 3rd.
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Every tuner I've talked to rather makes changes in trans internally other than pressures via a tune. I can post the emails if you like of three well known ones telling me this (I think I still have them.)
 
I have my line pressure jacked up 1000% and it scratches the surface of the moon on the 1-2 shift and grabs the sun in to 3rd. I now have stars in my tranny fluid. :waving:
 
i never said one way or the other. i say both. they work together, hand in hand, like pork and beans, peanut butter and jelly, ignorance and Ed Hall.just using a tune to increase pressure without internal mods may eventually overheat and/or wear out tranny before its time, especially if done on a high mileage car like an old used mark. just doing internal mods, theres alot more to do than just valvebody adjustments may not provide the results your looking for especially if you have a heavy foot like me and a few others. j mod, new valvebodies, shift kits whatever you want to call them all work on the same principle, they all require to drill holes in the plates to let more fluid flow which will cool the trans thus in theory extending life as i also recommend a tranny cooler of any kind with your mods and if you look back nobody is going to argue against a proper tune or personal chip.
 
Here's my view. The JMOD opens up particular holes in the separator plate for better flow. Now, once these holes are bigger, would a person want to jack up the line pressure beyond what the new larger holes can flow? NO

Part of it is in tuning and part of it is in the JMOD itself. I didn't start barking third until the Cobra intake swap with lots of bolt-ons to back it up. The extra power/torque up top caused that, not the tune and not the JMOD. One thing my tuner did right is added very little line pressure. Some won't even add any at all.
 
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