KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
Bosch platinum 4s? :shifty:
Anyone running these?
- Thread starter NoLimit95
- Start date
Bosch platinum 4s? :shifty:
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)
um. yes. that will hurt mileage. lol.
KStromberg
Dedicated LVC Member
And low-end torque will be down the crapper.
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
I've had bad experiences with autolite plugs.... in a 5.0 of all motors.... I changed my spark plugs on my GT below from the factory motorcraft, to said autolites. Now I already had MSD wires/cap/rotor, and I kid you not, it was less than 1000 miles, I had a part throttle miss. Couldn't figure it out. Best thing I could think of was plugs. So I put NGK V-powers in and drove it forever. Never had a slight issue with NGK's. Only changed em once due to running the car rich for a while with the wrong MAF after an impromptu injector swap, but it was more of a peace of mind thing because there were no signs of buildup or anything on the plugs. According to the plug I could have even ran more timing. But, I won't use Autolites in that car anymore. I only use NGK's in my Ford engines.
I will also say that Ford's Ford Racing plug wires are trash. They'll start arching in less than a year. Ran those before my MSD parts. It was like star wars under the hood at night!
I will also say that Ford's Ford Racing plug wires are trash. They'll start arching in less than a year. Ran those before my MSD parts. It was like star wars under the hood at night!
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
got autolite 764s and motorcraft wires for like 50,000 miles now. Zero issues.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey Chris nice job fixing up your mom's LS! Way to go. What a son.
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
Motorcrafts are probably better.... because my factory motorcrafts on my car which were showing their age at like 170k functioned better than my FRPP wires. I was dissapointed. And I don't know what was up with my autolite plugs.... changed to NGK's, same tank of gas, same driving habits.... no probs. Weird.
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
$8.01 a piece!!?! oh my.
Don Pfau
Dedicated LVC Member
I've ran Autolite and NGK Iridium plugs with good results in the Supercharged Mark because they are recommended for supercharged engines by the folks I thought were the most knowledgeable about them. But I dont think they are needed for a N/A engine.
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
NetKeym
Dedicated LVC Member
I got them for around $2 each.
They pop up cheap on eBay once in a while.
I paid $3.50 apiece for mine with discount at Advanced Auto.
JDS353
Dedicated LVC Member
ok guys just for info. frrom the spec book by ford. three different styles of plainum enhanced spark plugs are prouduced for the 4.6l 4v engine each plug has a different part number and use. awsf-32E spark plugs have a platium enhanced center electrode and are used in cylinders 5,6,7,8 . awsf-32EG spark plugs have a platinum enhanced ground (side) electrode. and used in cylinders1,2,3,and 4. if any spark plug is removed and re-installed it MUST be installed in the same cylinder from which it was removed. if any spark plug is replaced,use only spark plugs with part number awsf-32ee(as listed on the veci lable) this replacement spark plug has double platinum enhancement on both the center and ground electrode and may be used in all six cylinders. ALL RIGHT i take it that this statement is to cover their rears as to fed air requiments. as that the firing of the plugs using the dual coil setup uses the ground to fire some of the cylinders. also their last sentence should read 8 not 6 cylinders so that said i would have to check with the other plug manufactors and see if their plugs are compatable with firing the cylinders thru the ground. ok enough of my rant .JD
JDS353
Dedicated LVC Member
could this be a cause of reduced milage from other plugs ? possibly worth checking out. jd
NetKeym
Dedicated LVC Member
It's because of the waste-spark system and that two plugs are fired at a time.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
it's still holding vac to some degree, the light eventually goes out on it's own, then waits awhile to come back on...that repair is on 'the list'....did I mention it's a '96?
ONLYTONY
Dedicated LVC Member
plugs
I got a couple of sets of Bosch 4505 fusions. Anybody have any knowledge about these. $5.65 with a $4.00 rebate sounded real good. Rock does'nt list them any more, maybe a closeout they forgot to mention.
I got a couple of sets of Bosch 4505 fusions. Anybody have any knowledge about these. $5.65 with a $4.00 rebate sounded real good. Rock does'nt list them any more, maybe a closeout they forgot to mention.
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
....did I mention it's a '96?
Man, if I were you, and that was my car, I would be searching the junkyards for a w3z2, wiring harness, and early imrc's and revert that thing to obd1..... they're much happier. And you can cut all the catylitic converters off and it doesn't care!
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Use them at your own risk.
racecougar
Well-Known LVC Member
Back when I ran NA, I had good results with the Autolite copper 103's. I ran the NGK TR6's after installing the blower and running low boost (~5 psi), then went through a bunch of different plugs after turning up the boost (~10 psi) and installing the meth injection. I finally found the correct heat range in the AGSF-12FM1's.
I run the NGK TR6's in my 2V car and have no complaints. It will probably receive a set of T20EPR-U's next, just because they're sitting here on the shelf.
I certainly wouldn't recommend them.
I run the NGK TR6's in my 2V car and have no complaints. It will probably receive a set of T20EPR-U's next, just because they're sitting here on the shelf.
I certainly wouldn't recommend them.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Jesse, he can't use a W3Z2 in his 96. I'm thinking that's where a couple of mpg's are going with mine and also from using the copper plugs. I'm not complaining at all about the way it runs. I couldn't ask for better. It's 32 degrees in the garage right now and I guarantee you that I could go out there and turn the key over for a second or less and it would be running at around 1000-1100 rpm's for about 6-10 seconds and then it will idle down to around 650-700 rpm's and be very smooth. Just for the fun of it, I have taken a 12oz plastic Mountain Dew bottle that had a little less than a 1/2oz left in the bottom. I set the bottle, with lid on of course, on top of my shifter handle and it just sits there without the slightest hint of vibrating off. I have done this at normal parked idle and with it in drive and me holding the brake. Idle, acceleration, city and HWY driving, it runs very good with zero missing. It's about 300 miles away from hitting 121K and I don't think I could ask for a better running car. I'm just trying to figure out why some of you are getting 28, 29, 30 mpg on the HWY.
I only use 93 octane and sometimes it's ethanol free. I use STP (black bottle) fuel injector cleaner about every 800 miles. It treats up to 21 gallons but I sorta concentrate it by using the bottle with 14 gallons and sometimes 10-12 gallons. I only use Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic 5W-30 and Motorcraft oil filter. Honestly, the plug wires look like the factory wires but I would have to ask Jamie if he ever changed them. I doubt he did because it it wasn't broke, he wasn't buying nothing. When I bought the car from him, he had just changed the oil and was running Mobile 1 5000 5W-30 with a Motorcraft filter. I drove it back from Florida and within a few days, I went straight to fully synthetic. Then shortly after, I put in the Autolite copper 764's because that is the plug that has always been advised the most, if you want performance but I really don't need the performance. I don't have any mods except for a shaved intake tube. I have two MAF's and I keep both cleaned with CRC MAF cleaner. I keep them swapped out about every 6 months. The paper air filter is new. The oil and plugs have about 4K miles on both. I rarely drive the car much. Sometimes it sets for 4-10 days at a time and never gets cranked up. Sometimes, the iPod Touch in the console is dead from not being charged. This car is not what I consider a DD by any means. Maybe the W3Z2 in conjunction with it being a 95 could be the reason that I'm seeing my HWY mileage at an average of 25.5 mpg and 16 mpg if driven around the city. That's my mileage... 15.5 / 25.5 city / HWY
Just for the fun of it, when I do change the plugs and oil again, I'm going to put the DZA1 computer back in and see how the mileage changes. Sorry for the book but I think I have explained everything now. Maybe the new exhaust, once installed will help it out some.
We'll soon see! Mufflers come in today and I am weighing the options right now on whether I should have the 17 year old high flow cats removed and putting on new Magnaflow spun high flow cats. Sound tone will be different and then I'll know everything is all new and Magnaflow SS besides the tips but they too are polished SS The high flow cats I'm looking at are below.
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
I meant revert the car back to obd1 and get rid of all the troublesome 96 only electricals. Hence why I said find a wiring harness as well. I mean I'm sure its not as simple as that, but id do it if I had a bastard child 96.
Jacksun
Dedicated LVC Member
I about got into a fist fight with the oreillys guy when I had the cobra. Every book he had said iridium but I wanted copper. He was getting irate saying iridiums were the only choice cause his book said so
thaywood
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh man, dontcha hate that? Happened to me a few times in the past too. Kid behind the counter would say "the book says so-and-so so that's the only way you can do it" and I'd say "I'v been working on cars longer than you've been alive" and etc....fun times...
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
----
well, as opposed to the conversion I went the oppostie direction (for now at least)...I bought a second 96!
-but, I have an extra pair of 96 actuators that SF may be able to make work; I also have a pair of OBD-1 imrcs that do hold vac...one option is to swap to the obd-1 plates/actuators and have my tune modified to cancel the cel..
-re mpg, on a flat, straight road, holding 70 mph, the car tells me I'm geting 32 mpg; I don't know how quickly or slowly the cel goes on/off with respect to when the plate sticks..I've tested the pod...barely holds < 1 in/Hg