Another Mark VIII Car Audio question

Trippen Out

Trippen Out

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before frogman or anyone else says use the search feature i have. yes i saw several threads yes i read them yes im gonna repeat the question in a couple of them.

i need to run 0awg power wire from the battery to the back. out of all the threads i only saw one person mention anything about 0awg and the pictures provided were all broken links. actually most of the threads that had any sort of useful pictures all were broken links i guess becuase of how old they are.

how do you remove the back seat and the kick panels? i cant really find anything on those either. are taking the door panals off a pain? in the chiltons it appears to mean that its something that would be very time consuming and it doesnt actually tell you how to remove the parts its telling you to remove. so any help or advice would certainly be welcomed thanks.
 
Trippen Out said:
before frogman or anyone else says use the search feature i have. yes i saw several threads yes i read them yes im gonna repeat the question in a couple of them.

i need to run 0awg power wire from the battery to the back. out of all the threads i only saw one person mention anything about 0awg and the pictures provided were all broken links. actually most of the threads that had any sort of useful pictures all were broken links i guess becuase of how old they are.

how do you remove the back seat and the kick panels? i cant really find anything on those either. are taking the door panals off a pain? in the chiltons it appears to mean that its something that would be very time consuming and it doesnt actually tell you how to remove the parts its telling you to remove. so any help or advice would certainly be welcomed thanks.
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Search, Bish!

1. Pull up on the rear seat cushions. Far as I remember, there are no bolts holing them down... Or maybe there is one or two.

2. Pull on the kick panels and they pop out. You should remove the door weatehr stripping in that area.

3. Doors been covered recently.
 
Frogman said:
Search, Bish!

1. Pull up on the rear seat cushions. Far as I remember, there are no bolts holing them down... Or maybe there is one or two.

2. Pull on the kick panels and they pop out. You should remove the door weatehr stripping in that area.

3. Doors been covered recently.
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thanks. the book said apply knee pressure to the back seat and pull up i guess maybe it really is that simple. as for removing weather stripping thats nothing ive done before does it just pull down and stick back up. and what the good release on the kick panel will that be in the way or does it just pop off around it. unlike my bronco this car has a nice inside and id like to keep it that way. in the bronco i just yanked if it broke i said f-it. i dont want to apply that same method to this car

okay so i might have the backseat and the door panel coverd i hope. it just seems like al ot of steps for a door panel. so does anyone have any pictures on the power wire install ive seen a few different options from the threads i did read but again all the pics are broken links.
 
Trippen Out said:
thanks. the book said apply knee pressure to the back seat and pull up i guess maybe it really is that simple.
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Well... Yeah. The rear seat base is held by 2 loops that go into hooks. You push back at either side and lift. The seat back is held by a bolt at the bottom of each side. Undo those, then lift. (it is hooked at it's top)

Be very careful with the front kick panels. I can't comment on the driver's side, but the passenger side has a hook and MUST be released by sliding back towards rear of car - not pulled away!

So, you have the Ford service manual then? If so, all the info for panel and trim removal is in there. If you don't have it, I can take some pics from my 93's book.
 
93' Blue on blue said:
Well... Yeah. The rear seat base is held by 2 loops that go into hooks. You push back at either side and lift. The seat back is held by a bolt at the bottom of each side. Undo those, then lift. (it is hooked at it's top)

Be very careful with the front kick panels. I can't comment on the driver's side, but the passenger side has a hook and MUST be released by sliding back towards rear of car - not pulled away!

So, you have the Ford service manual then? If so, all the info for panel and trim removal is in there. If you don't have it, I can take some pics from my 93's book.
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no i dont have the service manual i have the crappy chiltons. it doesnt include any pics except for like an old contential or whatever. i managed to get the kick panel and the floor panel whatever its called off. i did get my new speaker wire through rubber door peice. that was hell but i got it. now im trying to fit a 6.5 speaker ito the 6x8 hole with custom wood brackets i made. should be interesting to see how it fits. if i cant get it then ill slam a set of 5.25 polks in there which i know will fit it for sure. ive alredy made brackets and flush mounted the tweeter in the door cups im basicly trying to find a spot in the door to mount my cross over since i dont with to run a second speaker wire through the door again (dont be a dumb as like me if your reading this run all the wires at once) after that i just have to figure out how im going to snake 3 sets of rca's from the dash down the side of the car and into the truck. along with all the speaker wire.

i do keep peeking under the hood when i take breaks. its friggin 95 out today and inside a black car in the sun isnt helping much. and i just cant see anywhere to run a power wire at all. hell i cant even find a spot to fit my hand between the engine and the eletronics. ive deicded that im determinted to get the power wire to run straight back down the drivers side. so this is my main concern everything else seems like a simple task and just needs some propper planning to prevent piss poor performance
 
yep you have the manuel for the car thats different then mine. how much for the cobra tho. it would be a waste to just keep it when it could actually be riding around
 
To properly run that cable you need to remove the seats the carpet and all that bs... just did it on Mespocks car...
 
it was like a 4 gauge wire... we pulled out the front and rear seats. I would personally pull the carpet all the way out...
 
Every car I had I had seen the bottom of the carpet and behind every dash...I like to get to know the car in case something like this happens or worst...you shouldn't be scared to pull a few covers and weatherstripping to finds bolts and such, it's the process of knowing your car like the back of your hands
 
CobraStar_LS8 said:
Every car I had I had seen the bottom of the carpet and behind every dash...I like to get to know the car in case something like this happens or worst...you shouldn't be scared to pull a few covers and weatherstripping to finds bolts and such, it's the process of knowing your car like the back of your hands
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i agree ive already learned alot today. of course i got side tracked my alt took a crap so now im learning i need all new tools to work on this thing unlike the standard bolts on my bronco
 
and trust me...working on our Marks can't get boring...it's different and confusing and is a PITA but hey, after you're done fixing the problem you'll feel smart as heck
 
Why are you running 0 gauge wire? Do you have multiple batteries that your going to put in the back or a larger alt up front? Otherwise that is pure overkill, and not in a good way. The money spent on that gauge wire you could have been put towards a really good set of 5x7 components like Alpine Type Rs. Simply my 2 cents worth. As for snaking 3 sets of rca cables to the back thats easy enuff as you will find. :D
 
I agree. #8 is the largest you would need unless you go ultra crazy with like 20000 amps. Use #8, easier to pull, terminate and get through the fire wall.
 
i couldn't find anywhere in the firewall to go - so i ran the wire ghetto through the fender and side by the door - screw it, i wanted it to work. i looked underneethere - the tranny firewall hole looked like the only optionss but it was hard as heck to get to. On joe's car they had it just drilled and ran it out the firewall - i might do that eventually.
 
but if your running 8 qauge and 2 amos that way to much draw on our factory alt i tryed that in my 94 and i killed the alt 2x and so im up grading to 4 gauge and a fused distrution block in the trunk and its a pain to re wirre EVERYTHING but like everyone said its amazing on how much of a difference it makes good luck and ill try to post pics of my install process for my 97 mark viii
 
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do you most of you guys drill through the fire as well or where do you run the wire through to get through the firewall? I think I may have 0 gauge... I have one 500 watt amp and two 1000 watt 12's. I think the car sounds louder when the cars off but that could just be me??? (cars kinda loud but not real loud) I have an optima redtop as well, i know they work well powering everything.
 
wow if you guys think 0 awg is over kill then you must have some weak systems in your car. also youll probably think im crazy when i tell ya im gonna turn around and rerun the main ground wires for the car with 0 awg as well and the smaller ones with 4 gage and then replace the main alt wire with 0 gage as well as for someone asking if i was going to run a second batt. no there is no point. a second batt is for parking lot time i only jam when i drive. as for the alt. right now ive got the stock 130 amp im so pissed becuase mine died and just had to put a new one in last night. (i was just about to order a 220 amp alt too but couldnt wait for the it to be mailed)192 bucks from autotheftzone i will be taking it somewhere to get it turned up tho so the way i look at it now. is i better run the correct stuff now instead of just doing what will work and then redoing it when i upgrade. ive also got 3 sets of compents to install 2 amps and a 25 farad cap not to mention a descent set of 12s to hold me over till i get the fi btl 15's to go in. from what im guessing ill have to drill the firewall out to make it easy i was hoping there was a spot that would fit the 0awg just perfect i thought i read in one of the other threads there was a spot but i just cant find it. anyway im still up for ideas. but please dont tell me its overkill becuase there is always room to upgrade :)

oh and as for the waste of money part. thats best . this is all stuff i ripped out of my bronco so its not costing me anything extra to run this set up im just moving it from one truck to another car
 
Trippen Out said:
wow if you guys think 0 awg is over kill then you must have some weak systems in your car. also youll probably think im crazy when i tell ya im gonna turn around and rerun the main ground wires for the car with 0 awg as well and the smaller ones with 4 gage and then replace the main alt wire with 0 gage as well as for someone asking if i was going to run a second batt. no there is no point. a second batt is for parking lot time i only jam when i drive. as for the alt. right now ive got the stock 130 amp im so pissed becuase mine died and just had to put a new one in last night. (i was just about to order a 220 amp alt too but couldnt wait for the it to be mailed)192 bucks from autotheftzone i will be taking it somewhere to get it turned up tho so the way i look at it now. is i better run the correct stuff now instead of just doing what will work and then redoing it when i upgrade. ive also got 3 sets of compents to install 2 amps and a 25 farad cap not to mention a descent set of 12s to hold me over till i get the fi btl 15's to go in. from what im guessing ill have to drill the firewall out to make it easy i was hoping there was a spot that would fit the 0awg just perfect i thought i read in one of the other threads there was a spot but i just cant find it. anyway im still up for ideas. but please dont tell me its overkill becuase there is always room to upgrade :)

oh and as for the waste of money part. thats best . this is all stuff i ripped out of my bronco so its not costing me anything extra to run this set up im just moving it from one truck to another car
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Yeap I have had so many weak systems. lol
This is just one of many I have built and yes it runs off of one 4 gauge wire to the rear batteries. Plays all day long wide open at shows. Doesn't blow fuses or burn up fuse holders nothing.

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