annoying squicking from the rear end?!?!?!?!

95MkViii

95MkViii

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well i noticed this on my mk the other day, the windows where down, and every time i turned right even slighly my car made this back squeal. it happens when i turn and when i stop. so i think its the bushing or something in the rear. the sound is coming from the rear of her. i just want another opinion on whats going on. any though?
 
The first thing I would do is to check the rear wheels for excessive bearing play. It could be something as simple as a brake pad squeak that also shows itself when the rotor flexes.
 
American Air-1 said:
The first thing I would do is to check the rear wheels for excessive bearing play. It could be something as simple as a brake pad squeak that also shows itself when the rotor flexes.
Click to expand...

checked the pads and that wasnt the problem. and dont have any bearing play. enless i checked wrong. (i sanded the pads down just a tad to get rid of the "shiny" spots)
 
It's your struts. The bushings wear out between the body and strut. Two bolts on the top for each side in the trunk, one on the bottom. It's common on these cars.

Edit, you can just replace the bushings and not the whole strut. Like $12 for the bushings.
 
Thats usually a clunk and not a squeek. Its prolly a worn brake pad or controll arm bushing or a line that moved and is rubbing.

I have come to the conclusion that these damn cars just make suspension noise no matter what. I have a slight clunk from the rear yet everything is tight and newish. I think my noise is the rear toe compensator links. I also have a clunk up front but have checked and rechecked everything. No balljoint play, no slack in any steering components, nothings loose, air struts are under 2 years old and new OEM units..... nothing seems to be worn yet there is still a clunk when going down this gravel road or hitting big bumps. :(
 
It could be many things. Warped rotor, pads, bushing, ebrake lines rubbing. If it just started it is probably a wear item.

Looks like it is time to rebuild the whole rear end....gears, better shocks, bearings, sway bar, good bushings,etc, etc,etc....
 
American Air-1 said:
The first thing I would do is to check the rear wheels for excessive bearing play. It could be something as simple as a brake pad squeak that also shows itself when the rotor flexes.
Click to expand...

Rotor flex? Rotors don't flex..they can warp with heat from a bind and increased friction.

Check the trunk area, my amp rack was making some noise before I moved everything around, also the air lines can rub the X brace behind the seat. Since I no longer have air ride, I removed all the tubing, it cancelled alot of noises from various places

Zip tie the PARKing brake cable to the frame in the center rear where the cable balancer is

check shock mounts under the little grey carpet mat covers, make sure the rubber isn't cracked


Did you make sure the brake pads had lube on the tips where they touch the anchor bracket, and lube the pad shims where they touch the outter caliper housing and piston, and guide pins need lube
Note: Use ONLY brake component lubricant, other lubricants may contain petrolium which can contaminate a brake systems rubber

chech rear control arm bushings for cracks or dry rot
 
Have you considered the real hub bearings? Mine made the same noise when turning and then with the window down I only heard the clicking with the window down and it reverb back to me when I was next to a jersey wall.
 
Does it make the squeel the entire time your turning or just a quick sound?
 
the entire time.

well its like

squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak till i stop turning.
 
You checked the pad depth? Sounds like inner pad is to it's wear tab and hitting on the warped rotor... Or your dust shield could be rubbing the rotor, or the rotor is hitting the disk hardware

remove rear wheels and replace the lug nuts to secure the rotor from wobble, then spin the rotor and check for noises

can I see a pic of the "shiney spots"? Or describe them..

Was the pad all shiney or was it like leopard spots? Does the rotor have spots?
 
Sapperfire said:
You checked the pad depth? Sounds like inner pad is to it's wear tab and hitting on the warped rotor... Or your dust shield could be rubbing the rotor, or the rotor is hitting the disk hardware

remove rear wheels and replace the lug nuts to secure the rotor from wobble, then spin the rotor and check for noises

can I see a pic of the "shiney spots"? Or describe them..

Was the pad all shiney or was it like leopard spots? Does the rotor have spots?
Click to expand...

it was 90% shiney. and more like all shiney with spots that are non shiney.
 
Go get new rotors and pads... You probably need a caliper rebuild or you've got bad hoses in the rear...
Get me some pics

I plan on rebuilding my rears this week, I'll do a write up on how to do an actuated caliper

check your hoses for cracks or dry rotting..

Those spots are flash burns, you've over heated the rotors and have made hard spots in them, they cause squeeks

you can get a full set of drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads for the front and semi mets in rear for $180 from www.brakemotive.com I'm using the set designed for a Mark8, no redrilling needed :-)

check your brake fluid, it should be clear not black like 99% of the cars I check
 
Sapperfire said:
Go get new rotors and pads... You probably need a caliper rebuild or you've got bad hoses in the rear...
Get me some pics

I plan on rebuilding my rears this week, I'll do a write up on how to do an actuated caliper

check your hoses for cracks or dry rotting..

Those spots are flash burns, you've over heated the rotors and have made hard spots in them, they cause squeeks

you can get a full set of drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads for the front and semi mets in rear for $180 from www.brakemotive.com I'm using the set designed for a Mark8, no redrilling needed :-)

check your brake fluid, it should be clear not black like 99% of the cars I check
Click to expand...

Shes got Brand new Rotor's and pads and claipers on her. also re-bleed the brakes (because there was no fluid in the car when i got it)
 
Push on each side of the trunk. See if it makes the noise.

Like I said, mine squeaked before my bushings went to :q:q:q:q, and started clunking.
 
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Pads aren't lubed, sway bar bushings are shot...bout all I can see...take wheel off and take brakes apart and lube the tips of the pads (the metal part) where they make contact with the bracket, and the backs of the pads (pads should have shims,I they didn't come with shims...stop buying cheap pads)...and the guide pins
 
Get pics of the pads, both friction surfaces and then hold the friction surfaces together for
both sets, and the rotor....but factory rotors are near discard when they are brand new...best to just change them
 
ill get those photos when it warms up and i can do some work on her. (its 15 degrees out side). but im going to replace all the rear bushings. as i think thats the main part of the problem.
 
I would say it's about time for a total bushing overhaul judging by the look in those pics, the arm bushings generally last longer than the smaller sway bar links, and if those look like that, I can immagine what the rest look like. I'll give ya tip if you plan this on your own, you'll need and extra hand to remove the forward bolt in the lower arm to knuckle.
And all off the control arm bushings are press in, there's also a link in the lower control arm -toe link compensater- they run upwards of $100 each if you can find them.
 
haha, ive got an extra set of hands that is more then willing to help out.

any idea how much all the rear end bushings are going to cost?

Edit: HOW MUCH ARE THE PARTS GOING TO COST.
 
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I would have to dig receipts out, but that wouldn't do much for you since I'm a commercial mechanic I get a discount on parts and ...I don't pay for labor.

Here's a break down of labor rates according to my shop for various things..
We use "Motor" for our labor guide
To R&R rear LCA bushings 2.1hrs each
R&R rear UCA bushings 0.9hrs each
sway links .5hrs each
knuckle 2.1hrs
hub 2.2
shocks 0.7each
crossmember 4.6
sway bar bushings 0.7

our hourly rate is $85 an hour, that should help figure your labor if you wanted to pay a shop
 
hahah, well i dont need a shop to do this for me. ive bin working on cars for 10 years. and have a father who has bin working on cars for 50 years. i have every tool you can think of. and i work at NAPA auto so i get parts for a very cheap price. :D
 
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