Outkast
Dedicated LVC Member
a good batery from fully charged will last way longer then five minutes on the road...just saying, it may not be the entire problem, I hope it is, but that battery is JUNK.
alternator not even the problem,electrical things started to go out then car stalled
- Thread starter Aviation
- Start date
jt351
Active LVC Member
So is it fixed yet, what was the problem? the battery light/ charging system light has absolutely nothing to do with the battery.
smdandb2
Active LVC Member
Jesus, this thread was irritating as fukk to read!
He was given some pretty solid advice, but just insisted on charging the battery and starting the car.
There are shi tloads of pinpoint tests you can do to verify what the problem is. Starting with a new battery is one of the first steps... or at least hook the car to some jumper cables and attach to a running car.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Actually, you have no idea. It went much further than this (I guess the mods deleted a lot of stuff). It ended with a personal attack on me, so I would rather not revive the whole thing. I don't think that the OP has been back since this.
Outkast
Dedicated LVC Member
he had 3 different threads, all of the same nature.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah, I got confused about which one it was in.
Mr33Twelve
New LVC Member
I haven't been here long but I've read enough to know you know your stuff. lol It sucks that the bickering started, but it sucks even more that in the midst the solution to this problem was erased with the rude remarks... Anybody remember what the solution was? Thanks in advance.
-Jaret
This is exactly what happened to me when my battery terminal was loose. It would wiggle loose after I jumped the car, and I couldn't have anything but the basics on. Rolling down the windows would cut the headlights, etc.
Have your battery checked, and check the wiring running from the battery to the front of the car.
Have your battery checked, and check the wiring running from the battery to the front of the car.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
A clear solution was never verified. The OP left. I suspect that he had a broken wire to the alternator. (Not the main one, one of the control wires.)I haven't been here long but I've read enough to know you know your stuff. lol It sucks that the bickering started, but it sucks even more that in the midst the solution to this problem was erased with the rude remarks... Anybody remember what the solution was? Thanks in advance.
-Jaret
The suggestions to check for loose wires at the battery or any of the main junctions are good ones. Anyone with weird electrical issues should start there.
Silver_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
I can't believe I just read this crap LOL.... That guy was freaking dense... It was like a record skipping.. I charged the batter again, I charged the battery again, I charged the battery again...... OMFG!
Be careful guys!! I searched high and low for the correct VENTED battery for my 2003 LS. I NEVER found the proper aftermarket one. Got the correct Motorcraft one from Ford for about $120. Higher than I like to pay but the factory battery was still working after 6 years and I just replaced it anyway. 6 years is long enough for me!!
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smdandb2
Active LVC Member
Bah, who needs vented.
I really think an explosion would be cool!
I really think an explosion would be cool!
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
This whole story is spread between three threads. If memory serves, he threw an alternator and three batteries at it, all for what was probably one broken wire.
Outkast
Dedicated LVC Member
fixed it for ya
I just read this thread. All I can say is... OH MY FUKKIN GOSH!!! My blood is literally boiling! You guys have too much patience! I couldn't even read his comme ts anymore, I just skipped his and read what others were saying.
I hate to bring this aneurysm thread back but I have a charging issue. As some know, I have the electric fan conversion, big 3 upgrade, kinetik 1800w battery.
The alt is a factory that was remained by the company that has been working on my HO because it is taking forever to get it and fixed this one in the mean time.
I got the alternator load input code. Thing is, battery charge at idle 13.4~ with everything running. Everything off, I got 14.3~. I couldn't test it at any rpms since I hade no one to help me.
All connections are good, the positive cable fuse is fine, no starting or running issues. Usually you can hear alternators going out, but this one sounds fine.
I did have a full size tire waiting for a wheel that touched the positive terminal but I don't think that would cause an issue; even so, I moved it out of the way and the battery light will turn on and off intermittently. It first happened 5 days ago then today it came on then off on then off 5 min....30 min. etc
The woman wants to take my car to Indianapolis which is 2-2 1/2 hrs away. I don't want to risk being stuck on the side of the highway if it's a problem that should be addressed before such a trip.
The alt is a factory that was remained by the company that has been working on my HO because it is taking forever to get it and fixed this one in the mean time.
I got the alternator load input code. Thing is, battery charge at idle 13.4~ with everything running. Everything off, I got 14.3~. I couldn't test it at any rpms since I hade no one to help me.
All connections are good, the positive cable fuse is fine, no starting or running issues. Usually you can hear alternators going out, but this one sounds fine.
I did have a full size tire waiting for a wheel that touched the positive terminal but I don't think that would cause an issue; even so, I moved it out of the way and the battery light will turn on and off intermittently. It first happened 5 days ago then today it came on then off on then off 5 min....30 min. etc
The woman wants to take my car to Indianapolis which is 2-2 1/2 hrs away. I don't want to risk being stuck on the side of the highway if it's a problem that should be addressed before such a trip.
Andrizzle
Dedicated LVC Member
I think the only time you would "hear" an alternator going out was if the bearing was shot.
When you say it is 14.3 with 'everything off' - are you talking about the entire car? Or electrical components that you have control over?
Who is building your HO Alt?
When you say it is 14.3 with 'everything off' - are you talking about the entire car? Or electrical components that you have control over?
Who is building your HO Alt?
All electical components (stereo, heater, lights, seat warmers etc. are off and voltage is ~14.3.
National Quik Start. I mentioned it over in Hites thread. Bought the thing in June, got here mid-july and hes had it since August after the "non amperage" at idle problem was brought to his attention. So as of wed it is on its way. If it works i wont recommend them to anyone because of uncanny poor customer service and count it....5 months to get what I paid for. If its a wash again, im going for refund and Ohio Gen
Edit: Joegr - I did say the wrong code....not even close. Fixed
So is a "P1246 alternator load input...." (correct me if im wrong on any of that) related specifically to the alt or does it account for the entire charging system.