Alignment changes for lowered coils

[dnsherrill]

these specs are found click here on TCCoA for MN12 and labeled *Preferred settings for aggressive handling
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Front Camber -1.3* Range min -1.3............+0.3 max
Front Caster +5.5* Range min +4.8............+6.3 max
Front Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03........+0.10 max
Rear Camber -1.0* Range min -1.0.........+0.0 max
Rear Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03......+0.19 max
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does anyone know how the margins and/or target changes for a coiled mark that's lowered 1.5"? (i.e. my white one)

 

[slowmkviii]

If that's what you want it would be the same.

 

[driller]

If I recall correctly, the factory manual lists the alignment settings.

As always, there is a preferred target and a 'range' of the settings. Most shops will set the range on the machine and call it good enough when all is in the green regardless of the optimum settings.

 

[dnsherrill]

i took my white mark to get checked/aligned..it's under warranty so N/C...they were surprised at the eccentric bushing in the rear UCA...they got everything w/in parameters except rear rt camber...it's at -1.3...they asked if there's a different eccentric bushing available that allows greater movement.
my rear wheel heights may be different due to coil rotation variances=, results in camber improperly set?

 

[racecougar]

This is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's a autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15. I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero on stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow and increase in toe when under power.
Cross camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total toe: Zero to +0.3

These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.

 

[94m5]

Good advice Rod.

 

[racecougar]

Thanks.

 

[dnsherrill]

you said as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative.....I guess that's why the best they could do on the pass side rear was neg 1.3...not far out of range, but out nonetheless. These guys really fought with it, of course they never knew about the UCA eccentric bushing before i told em....this after they'd spent many hours on different occasions over the last year trying to align my two cars at various times

 

[racecougar]

If you're only lowered 1.5", there should be no trouble getting rear camber in range. If the alignment tech actually did attempt to dial in the camber via the inner bolt on the UCA and couldn't get any closer to zero than -1.3, then I'd bet the UCA is bent (or something is way out of whack). Especially since you're only having trouble with one side.

Most alignment techs won't know to use the inner UCA bolt to change camber, and some will completely disregard a customer that tells them how, so I recommend watching whoever you have do your work.

 

[dnsherrill]

they did use the UCA bushing to move it- after I convinced them it would move the arm,
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it could be, but I don't think the UCA is bent- no evidence of a collision;
the only variance i could come up with is the two rear springs may be at different heights based on coil rotation/placement
thanks for the input
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edit: actually they were able to get the camber on that wheel w/in range, but it threw the toe out....so they opted to get the toe in range and have the camber just beyond normal range on the neg end