Alarm will not stop going off- cannot turn it off unless i pull fuse 6

BigPip

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Talk about buyers remorse - I can't seem to get ahead with this car.
The other day the battery light came on and I decided I was going to do the 'Big 3' and while I had it a part I had the alt tested and the results came back good, then I had the battery tested and it came back good. I continued the 'Big 3' and after I finished wiring everything up I hooked the battery up and instantly the alarm ( horn & lights) started going off and nothing would turn it off. I tried both door locks with the key, full turns both directions, keypad lock, unlock, panic and using the key pad to lock and unlock the car but it keeps going on and on and on... The only thing I can do is pull fuse #6. interesting enough if I insert the fuse, the alarm goes crazy but I can pull it right back out and it stops, It doesn't keep going.
The battery has been unhooked for about 5 days but I can't see where that causing an issue.

For those who have done the Big 3, mad props- the bolt for the engine cable is a P.I.T.A.!!!

Any ways, if anyone has any suggestions I sure would appreciate it!
 
If the battery is low, it can cause the alarm to go off.

Also, spray your door latches with pb blaster and slam your doors a few times. Those switches go bad and cause the alarm to go off.

If non of those, there is a switch under the hood (close to the air box), try unplugging it.

Lastly, there is a switch in the trunk...but I personally don't know of one going bonkers.

Last resort, you can unplug the whole system under the glove box area until you can figure it out.
 
If the battery is low, it can cause the alarm to go off.

Also, spray your door latches with pb blaster and slam your doors a few times. Those switches go bad and cause the alarm to go off.

If non of those, there is a switch under the hood (close to the air box), try unplugging it.

Lastly, there is a switch in the trunk...but I personally don't know of one going bonkers.

Last resort, you can unplug the whole system under the glove box area until you can figure it out.
I disconnected both door latches from inside the dirt the day I brought the car home
The first thing I did today was unplugged the hood latch

The battery was fully charged before it all started - wish I knew what was going on, its bizarre that it started sporadically.
 
How is your ignition?

Mine was loose, like without the key you could partially turn it. I had to change my ignition cylinder out.
 
I was reading about the ignition switches being bad, mine is pretty sloppy. I have taken the key out and it would keep dinging until I turned the ignition to the 'off' position. I guess I will start searching on replacing the switch but I still have to get my charging (rather lack of) issue squared away first.

I just noticed you're in Orlando- we are practically neighbors, I am north about 20 miles via I4
 
I was reading about the ignition switches being bad, mine is pretty sloppy. I have taken the key out and it would keep dinging until I turned the ignition to the 'off' position. I guess I will start searching on replacing the switch but I still have to get my charging (rather lack of) issue squared away first.

I just noticed you're in Orlando- we are practically neighbors, I am north about 20 miles via I4

Replacing the cylinder is extremely easy. Literally takes like 2 minutes. There is a hidden slot on the bottom of the ignition. You turn the key and push something like an eye glass screwdriver into it and you'll hear a pop. Slides right out. Slide the new one in. Done :)

I'm in Casselberry. I work in Orlando, in the Eatonville area.
 
i left the stock ground cables alone and just added more.
in my opinion, there is no real need to mess with the original stuff if its out of your way.
 
Big 3

mark viii BIG 3.jpg
After a lot of futzing around, I found if I used 3 swivel extensions and went through the opening where the sway bar was, I was able to get the bolt off. The pain was when the socket came off the nut and I had to realign it again. After so far I had to switch to my ratcheting wrench and finish the job.

Man, look how small that 4ga starter wire looks next to the 2ga power wire- what a pain it is to work with and bend though!

mark viii BIG 3.jpg
 
Alternators have been known to test good when they are bad.

I have been reading that a lot so I just ordered a 96 Cobra Alternator, I actually saved money this way too- This site is full of awesome info!
 
I've learned with this car that the alternator should be pulled and bench tested at least three times before calling it good.
 
Received and installed the alternator today. Still need to do some testing to confirm we are charging correctly.
 
I put in a new ignition lock cylinder and hooked/plugged the alarm back in but it still goes crazy. Can't turn it off unless I pull the fuse again.
 
You must have changed something when you did the big 3 because your problems started after you had it apart.
I would start by looking at the wiring for fuse 6, them move on to each switch bypassing them until you find the one that is driving the alarm.
 
Did you make sure that the wires in the door that you disconnected aren't grounding out?

Here's a diagnostic test you can do, this is from the 94 manual, not sure what year your car is.

theft diagnostics.jpg
 
Not sure what year yours is, but my daughter's 93 had this happen. It ended up being a small water leak around the fresh air inlet under the windshield, and it dripped down onto the alarm module under the glove box and that thing went nuts one day. I pulled battery cables, etc. etc. and I finally found that leak. I just replaced the module (and fixed the leak) and now all is well.

Oh, and now that I look at your sig, I see yours is a 93 as well. Hopefully this helps. Also, I think I actually have another module in my parts bin. I get every part off of scrapped 93's I can. If you ever have to replace the blend door actuator, it's year specific, so get it out of parts cars.....
 

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