acceleration problem

What on earth is that thing? it almost looks like an engine immobilizer. What is the entire number sequence on that control box in the first picture?
 
First owner was a Ford guys....on the box it says Ford motor compagny remote start system this thing.was made by.ford dealer ....only thing I know...I should be worrie about that thing???
 
Looks like a mess to me, I'd also get rid of it, return to stock. why'd they wire into COP (Coil over Plug) ?

So does it still go into fail safe mode now after cutting that wire ?

Coils & plugs are next. get that thing to stop misfiring.
also put a fresh air breather filter in and if you are into it a fresh fuel filter. (it's inside the drivers front wheel well)


~ that would be a good start on getting that to deliver fuel, breath good air and fire on all cylinders.

If it still runs a bit rough after that you'd be looking at cleaning the Mass Airflow sensor, Throttle body intake and a bottle of injector cleaner through the gas tank.


re: "he detect a code c..? what is a code C???"

there is more to this, not enough information.
 
V6 don't have coil covers ? I was not aware of that.
I would have thought the coils would have been under a cover like the V8's.

<shrugs>



Visteon coils should still be available for that V6 on ebay.

Note: please don't put cheap junk coils in. use Motorcraft or Visteon coils.


Tech page here: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/?tabid=37

You'll see the links for,

- V6 Lincoln LS Coil On Plug Replacement
- Replacing the Spark Plugs in the V6 Lincoln LS
 
No fail safe no red fcking light ticking-_- but car bucking a little at 2 rpm but if I run the car slow everything fine but I still have misfire and air filter already change:p when changing my oil :p
 
That would be 2K (2000) RPM.
You still need to change all the spark plugs and coils. Do note that you have a 3K RPM neutral limiter that kicks in when in park or neutral.
 
No more red light ticking no fail safe but still bucking a the 2 rpm or at A stop signal like the scan say I definitely got some misfire except this everything is ok :)
 
clay said:
First owner was a Ford guys....on the box it says Ford motor compagny remote start system this thing.was made by.ford dealer ....only thing I know...I should be worrie about that thing???
Click to expand...

So that's some sort of remote start? That would mean the remote start is somehow malfunctioning. Unless it never worked in the first place.......
 
there is nothing with the remote start..... no need to rip everything out. There are two options when installing the Ford remote start (tach or tachless) the reason the wire is connected to the cop is for the tach.(the LS does not have a tach wire, it send the tach via the SCP data wires to the I/C) The remote start module monitors the pluses to the cop and if it goes to high during the remote start feature it will shut the car off. The light was flashing because of the misfiring of the cop. Also, you can change to tachless mode in option bank 2 feature 1 of the programming menu. The other silver piece attached to the hood is to disable the remote start when the hood is up, so the engine can't be remote started if someone is working on the engine.
 
mtggtmmtg said:
there is nothing with the remote start..... no need to rip everything out. There are two options when installing the Ford remote start (tach or tachless) the reason the wire is connected to the cop is for the tach.(the LS does not have a tach wire, it send the tach via the SCP data wires to the I/C) The remote start module monitors the pluses to the cop and if it goes to high during the remote start feature it will shut the car off. The light was flashing because of the misfiring of the cop. Also, you can change to tachless mode in option bank 2 feature 1 of the programming menu. The other silver piece attached to the hood is to disable the remote start when the hood is up, so the engine can't be remote started if someone is working on the engine.
Click to expand...
IT MAKES A LOT a SENS THAT'S WHAT THE GUYS TOLD ME AND HE SAID IF I REMOVE ALL OF THAT THE CAR NOT GOING TO START SO IMMA KEEP THIS I THINK .....AND THE REAL QUESTION ..IS THAT A GOOD PROGRAM
??
 
remote start

If you just remove the modules(depending on what system you have), yes it is possible your car won't start. If you have the remote start only system, then you can remove the modules, because it only piggybacks the wiring to the ignition and starter. If you have the remote starter with VSS(vehicle security system) and remove only the modules, you will not be able to start your car because the the starter wire from the ignition is cut and run through the main module for the interrupt feature. As for the programming, there is nothing wrong with switching to tachless mode, because the module monitors the manual(key) crank time(to determine an average crank time) and also monitors the voltage to know when the vehicle started.
 
mtggtmmtg said:
there is nothing with the remote start..... no need to rip everything out. There are two options when installing the Ford remote start (tach or tachless) the reason the wire is connected to the cop is for the tach.(the LS does not have a tach wire, it send the tach via the SCP data wires to the I/C) The remote start module monitors the pluses to the cop and if it goes to high during the remote start feature it will shut the car off. The light was flashing because of the misfiring of the cop. Also, you can change to tachless mode in option bank 2 feature 1 of the programming menu. The other silver piece attached to the hood is to disable the remote start when the hood is up, so the engine can't be remote started if someone is working on the engine.
Click to expand...


that explains pretty much everything ... was wondering why the need to run an auto start to a coil. +1 thanks!
 
with remote start systems, you need a tach signal so the system knows a) when the motor is running(important if the cars is already running, and you want to remote start it to keep it running when you go into a store), and b) when to stop cranking when starting the car. the most common place to get that is either at an injector or a coil


the item in the third picture is a hood tilt switch, this is to automatically disable a remote start anytime the hood is open.





Fun Facts with Remote Starts

with DEI systems (viper, python, clifford...) you always want to use a fuel injector on ford cars (the unit will shut off after a minute or two because the system think the motor is idling too slow, dont know why the signal changes after that???) and you always want to use a coil on a Chrysler because when you use a fuel injector, it will stop cranking right after the instant it starts cranking.



for the record, some of the worse R/S installs i have ever seen have come from dealer add ons. there is a huge difference between factory remote start and a dealer add on.
 
1LoudLS said:
with remote start systems, you need a tach signal so the system knows a) when the motor is running(important if the cars is already running, and you want to remote start it to keep it running when you go into a store), and b) when to stop cranking when starting the car. the most common place to get that is either at an injector or a coil

You do not need a tach signal for remote start system to work properly, it has the option to run tachless. I installed this system in my brother's 09 Ford Ranger (set in tachless mode) and it has worked flawlessly. The only advantage of the tach mode is if the idle was to exceed twice normal idle, the remote start would shut down. The system also has options to shut down if a door is opened, and will always shut down if the brake pedal is pressed down without the ign, key inserted & turned to run. The system also has a quick stop feature that allows you leave the car running when you go into a store.
Click to expand...
 
no. you are correct, it is not actually a requirement for remote start (aftermarket systems on manual transmissions require it). But while there is tach less modes for most brands, I would always prefer there be a real tach setting, as i have seen a lot of issues from tachless starting that were resolve from simply running a tach wire.





mtggtmmtg said:
The light was flashing because of the misfiring of the cop.
Click to expand...

the dealer system monitors for misfires when just normally driving around?

what is the purpose of triggering a relay on and off so fast like that?
 
1LoudLS said:
...the dealer system monitors for misfires when just normally driving around?

what is the purpose of triggering a relay on and off so fast like that?
Click to expand...

I would counter-guess that the remote start processor was crashing and resetting due to RFI noise from the misfiring coil(s). Of course, that's just a guess.
 
450$ coil and plug +60$ gasket intake is that a Good price????
 
clay said:
450$ coil and plug +60$ gasket intake is that a Good price????
Click to expand...

Are you saying $510 for six OEM coils, six OEM spark plugs, and the gaskets between the two halves of the intake manifold? If so, then that's not unreasonable.
 
So I check and in Montreal Canada Jarry auto part and my friend have 40% off 6 ignition coils 6 spark plug Plus gasket for the inta:ke (cause he need to romove a part of the intake I think...?)cost me 515$ other then that he told me 790$:0 and no labor -_- just want to know what Mark I take for the coil and spark plug ls 05 v6 3.0l..thx
 
Visteons Coils, european Motorcraft.
Visteon (Motorcraft) 60-1004 Ignition Coils = for your V6

:: Visteon coils are getting real hard to come by even for the V6 nowadays,
you may have to get some regular Motorcraft DG's instead.

MOTORCRAFT Part # DG528 {#2W4Z12029AB, 2W4Z12029AC, DG517}
you can source them on www.rockauto.com (cheapest)

or eBay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...R0.TRC0&_nkw=MOTORCRAFT+Part+#+DG528&_sacat=0


I wouldn't put any of that other cheap aftermarket junk in it. Up to you of course.




NGK supplied the OE plugs. Get NGK iridiums.



more: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?78998
 
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