ABS/TC light - HELP!!

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14.6@97MPH

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Help!! I've got a 1998 LSC. After I drive 5-10mph my ABS light and check TC message come on every time. On start up they are not on.

I checked and cleaned all the sensors.........they looked ok to me.

I took the car to a local garage to have all the brake fluid changed. Although I'm still not sure they bled the pump. This did not fix the problem (I really didn't think it would, buy it was worth a try and I needed new fluid anyway).

The code they pulled is "C1095" They are telling me I need an ABS module, which of course isn't available anymore.

Is the ABS module my problem, and if it is, where can I find one?

I've searched all 3-Mark VIII boards, and can't really find my answer.........probably not a good sign.

Thanks,
Ken
 
I bet its the ABS relay (which is right by the pump) or fuse. At about 15 mph the system does a test of the ABS. And since ABS is out, so is traction control.

Check fuses, replace relay. Those are the first and cheapest things to do.
 
My garage already checked the fuses.

Where is the relay, and is that part available?!

Thanks for the quick response.

Ken
 
Ya, the part is around. Its the same relay used for the air suspension compressor. In fact people often swap them to test things.

And I told you were its at, by the ABS pump! Not too easy to get to. On my 96 I pull the cornering light/side marker and get to it that way. On a Gen II it may be easier with those bigger headlights. Not sure. The other way is to remove the wheel well liner and go up from below.
 
Is the ABS pump and relay on the driver's side wheel well? (the air suspension pump is on the passenger side, so I'm assuming it's on the driver's side)

Where is the relay for the Air Suspension pump..........at the air suspension pump? I do know where the air suspension pump is, i've changed my fuel filter and taken out the air silencer.

Can I get a relay at an auto-parts store, or is it a dealer part.

Thanks for all your help!!

Ken
 
14.6@97MPH said:
Is the ABS pump and relay on the driver's side wheel well? (the air suspension pump is on the passenger side, so I'm assuming it's on the driver's side)

Where is the relay for the Air Suspension pump..........at the air suspension pump? I do know where the air suspension pump is, i've changed my fuel filter and taken out the air silencer.

Can I get a relay at an auto-parts store, or is it a dealer part.

Thanks for all your help!!

Ken
Click to expand...


Relay is a dealer only part. Still available though.

It sounds like you do need a module though. Mike Schultz had the same exact problem. Replacing the module fixed it. Of course, 98 is a year specific module ;)

I'd swap a relay from the air compressor to the abs (they're the same) and see if it fixes the problem. If not, it's the module time. Plenty avail used ;)
 
Dealer part or used only and not cheap, so thats why most swap. You got your location right. They are almost opposite of each other. They are silver metal with black plastic frame. The metal part has cooling fins. The harness to them squeezes then slides off. The one at the compressor I dont think you can get to without removing the liner.

If its not the relay, then I suggest you do the ABS test. I dont have info on that.
 
unity said:
If its not the relay, then I suggest you do the ABS test. I dont have info on that.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by ABS test? I had the codes pulled and got the C1095 error. Is that what you mean? Would there be a different code if it was the relay?

I'm not looking forward to swapping relays :( Pulling both wheels, pulling both fender liners and swapping relays, then I can't test it without putting it all back together and driving 15mph :( UNLESS...........hmmmm..........if I put the abs relay in for the air suspension, I should be able to make the air suspension go on without jacking it down, or driving it?

Ken
 
i sold mike the module for his abs pump , i have sold a few since, it does happen, if they told you the module is bad chances are it is the module, try the relay first, if that doesnt work you'll need the module. im pretty sure i have a few 98 abs pumps in the garage.
 
14.6@97MPH said:
What do you mean by ABS test? What do you mean by ABS test?

Ken
Click to expand...

the ABS runs a "self test" at between 10-15MPH.
If you didn't have CRAZY LOUD exhaust *grins* you'd probably hear a very mufled "brrrrrrt" noise when you first start driving if you keep your speed low.

but knowing Ken, his car never made a "slow crawl up to speed" and his LMS exhaust probably drowns out the sublte sounds of the mark 8.
*grins a smack talk smile @ Ken*
 
14.6@97MPH said:
.if I put the abs relay in for the air suspension, I should be able to make the air suspension go on without jacking it down, or driving it?
Click to expand...

it's for a "test".

usually the "relay swap" is in the other direction.
people swap the ABS relay to check a weak or failed air ride relay.

since the air ride puts WAY more load on the relay than the ABS does it's often a "fix" in a manner of speaking.

But...if your abs relay is bad, or weak it wont hold up to the strain of the air ride.

swap the relays and see if your ABS light goes away, if it does.. find a replacement relay for the abs.
 
14.6@97MPH said:
I'm not looking forward to swapping relays :( Pulling both wheels, pulling both fender liners and swapping relays, then I can't test it without putting it all back together and driving 15mph

Ken
Click to expand...

it is kind of a drag I will admit.

there is an alternative, you could run down to the ford dealer and buy a new one, then you only have to pull "the offending" side of the car apart.

the swap test is an alternative to "throwing parts at it".
if you want to save some money, you're gonna have to do some work.
if you dont want to save money and save time... just go buy one.

you cant save time AND money, not in an obama run government..sorryLOLZ
 
XLRVIII said:
OK who's logged into Kens account and asking n00bie questions..

GENO???!!!!

LMAO
Click to expand...

In my 13-years of Mark VIII ownership, I've never had to look at or mess with the ABS pump. :) When the ABS broke on my 1993, the car had 160k miles, so I didn't care. My current LSC is a little newer/nicer and it beeps to tell me is broken every time I drive it, so it bugs me a little more. Wait until you see my next dumb question post about the rear brakes!!

- Ken
 
14.6@97MPH said:
Wait until you see my next dumb question post about the rear brakes!!

- Ken
Click to expand...

LMAO you were RIGHT!

(wacks ken with the n00bie stick)

I need to find my babyfood spoon, the last guy I used it on left with it firmly stuck in his posterior, I might need to buy a new one.

What color do you like Ken?
*G*
 
You can jack it up on all fours and drop in in drive.

But with a 98 does the car not run the speed sensor off the passenger front ABS sensor? I am not sure.

So you may be able to jack it all up so you can drop in in drive then spin the front wheel by hand to hit 15mph and see if the code throws. I dunno, just thinking of a way to ghetto test it.
 
Plan "throw parts at it" didn't work this time. :( I put a new relay in and I'm still getting the same ABS/TC light.

I'm going to contact Jamie about a ABS module...........whatever that is.

Ken
 
Jamie doesn't have any 1998 ABS modules :(

Anybody got any other suggestions?

It looks like fastpartsnetwork has a new ABS module for $600, but I thought they didn't make this part anymore?

$600 is A LOT, but if it fixes the problem, and my car doesn't beep with an error message when I drive 12mph, I'll be happy. My car only has 89k miles on it, and I plan to keep it for a long time, so it would be nice to have ABS.

HELP fix my ABS/TC!
Ken
 
Call me old fashioned, but 600 for a module... I'm pretty sure I'd dump the abs!! Being since I only drive my car on nice-weather days, and the fact if I ever needed the abs on a windy road I'm pretty sure I'd be screwed anyways.
 
C1095 ABS/TC ABS Hydraulic Pump Motor Circuit Failure GO to Pinpoint Test A.

This is out of the Ford online manual.

PINPOINT TEST A: DTC C1095 — ABS HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR CIRCUIT FAILURE
CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS
A1 CHECK ABS PUMP




Is the ABS pump motor running all the time?
Yes
REPLACE the anti-lock brake control module; REFER to Module—Anti-Lock Brake Control. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A2.
A2 CHECK PUMP OPERATION
Trigger the anti-lock brake control module active command PMP MOTOR ON.


Does the ABS pump motor run?
Yes
CLEAR the DTC. CHECK the yellow ABS warning indicator while driving the vehicle above 32 kph (20 mph) and no brakes applied until the vehicle exceeds 32 kph (20 mph). If the yellow ABS warning indicator illuminates. REPLACE the anti-lock brake control module; REFER to Module—Anti-Lock Brake Control. TEST the system for normal operation. If the yellow ABS warning indicator does not illuminate, system is OK.

No
TRIGGER the anti-lock brake control module active command PMP MOTOR OFF. GO to A3 .
A3 CHECK POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX FUSES 20 (30A) AND 21 (20A)


Power Distribution Box Fuse 20 (30A)



Power Distribution Box Fuse 21 (20A)



Are the fuses OK?
Yes
GO to A4.

No
REPLACE the failed fuse(s). TEST the system for normal operation. If the fuse(s) fails again, CHECK for short to ground. REPAIR as necessary. TEST the system for normal operation.
A4 CHECK CIRCUIT 483 (R) AND CIRCUIT 533 (T/R) FOR AN OPEN


Anti-Lock brake Control Module C114

Connect EEC-IV 60-Pin Breakout Box.

Measure the voltage between EEC-IV 60-Pin Breakout Box pin 9, circuit 533 (T/R), and ground; and between EEC-IV 60-Pin Breakout Box pin 25, circuit 483 (R), and ground.


Are the voltages greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A5.

No
REPAIR the circuit in question. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.
A5 CHECK CIRCUIT 57 (BK) FOR AN OPEN

Measure the resistance between EEC-IV 60-Pin Breakout Box pin 8, circuit 57 (BK), and ground; and between EEC-IV 60-Pin Breakout Box pin 24, circuit 57 (BK), and ground.


Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A6.

No
REPAIR circuit 57 (BK). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.
A6 CHECK THE PUMP MOTOR FOR PROPER OPERATION


Pump Motor Connector


Connect a heavy gauge jumper between the negative battery post and pump motor connector, brown wire; and momentarily connect a jumper between the positive battery post and pump motor connector, red wire with a 30A in-line fuse.


Does the pump motor run?
Yes
REPLACE the anti-lock brake control module; REFER to Module—Anti-Lock Brake Control. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPLACE the EHCU; REFER to Hydraulic Control Unit—Electronic (EHCU). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.
 
Anywho.... this is why I am going to pullapart today. The pump motor on my ABS failed. Different test, different code (63) 63 No pump motor speed sensor signal during initial check at 31 km/h (19mph), wire harness or damaged anti-lock brake control module . Go to Pinpoint Test Step DD7.

I did the pinpoint test in my case, and the ABS pump motor is dead. I am going to bet you have the same problem, my light doesn't come on until 19mph. But it comes on every time and stays on.
 
My garage did a diagnosis (not just a code read) and they came up with thinking it is the ABS module. I'm not sure they did that full diagnostic list you have above though, they are not a dealer.

I tried the quick fix of the ABS relay, and that didn't fix it.

I'm not sure if this matters or not, but if it is very, very cold out (below 25-degrees) the ABS sometimes works. The same thing happened in my 1993 before it's ABS completely went. Not sure what that means?

I did pull a different code than Diesel Dan (my C1095 vs. 63), so maybe my ABS pump is OK?

m marker - I'm sending you a PM about an ABS module.

As far as skipping this repair, again, I drove my 1993 for 100k of its 250k miles w/o ABS, but that happened when the car had 150k miles on it. It also didn't beep at me every time I got to ~12mph. My 1998 is newer, only has 89k miles on it, I plan to keep it for a while, and I drive it year round including snow, ice, black ice, and rain...........and that damn beeping at 12mph. I'm sure I could cut a wire to stop the beeping but then I'll never fix this.

I really don't want to spend $600 on an ABS module and it doesn't fix my problem. That would suck.

Ken
 
Im pretty sure our codes are the same thing, we just have different OBD systems. THey description of the code seems to be similar. My bet is your ABS pump motor is dead. I got a pump motor at the jy for 50 bux today.
 
Hi!

I have exactly the same problem and also get C1095 error code in my 1997 Mark VIII. ABS in my car sometimes works under 15mph until i get the ABS light and check T/C message.

Is it possible to replace ABS ECU without taking the pump out?

Thanks!
Mariusz...
 
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