A/c compressor, '03 LS

stumpy said:
How much time and how bad was it? Did you replace the drier as well? Did you get the part numbers?
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I've done it three times now (all V8s). It's really not that bad. I'd say about two hours, which includes the 30/45 minutes required to pull a good vacuum on it, and the time to recharge it.

In the case of the V8:
Drive up on ramps.
Remove air intake tube to be able to get to the belt.
Remove drive belt.
Remove guard under compressor.
Discharge system.
Disconnect manifold from compressor (one bolt).
Remove compressor (four bolts). *
Pour correct amount of correct oil into new compressor, put cover back over manifold connections.
Bolt in new compressor. *
Bolt on compressor manifold (use new o-rings).
Turn compressor crankshaft by hand several turns to distribute the oil.
Replace dryer (couple of bolts and a couple of o-rings).
Attach good two-stage vacuum pump and let it go for at least 30 to 45 minutes.
Re-install drive belt and air intake tube.
Start engine and turn AC on.
Feed in 2 and 1/3 12oz cans of R-134a (V8 amount, V6 will be less) - Monitor to make sure high pressure side does not go too high!
Replace compressor guard.

* Note that it is a minor puzzle to figure out which way to turn the compressor to get it out and in, some lines have to be moved out of the way.

V6 compressor: BU2Z-19V703-KA
Receiver/dryer: XW4Z-19959-BA
 
joegr said:
I've done it three times now (all V8s). It's really not that bad. I'd say about two hours, which includes the 30/45 minutes required to pull a good vacuum on it, and the time to recharge it.

In the case of the V8:
Drive up on ramps.
Remove air intake tube to be able to get to the belt.
Remove drive belt.
Remove guard under compressor.
Discharge system.
Disconnect manifold from compressor (one bolt).
Remove compressor (four bolts). *
Pour correct amount of correct oil into new compressor, put cover back over manifold connections.
Bolt in new compressor. *
Bolt on compressor manifold (use new o-rings).
Turn compressor crankshaft by hand several turns to distribute the oil.
Replace dryer (couple of bolts and a couple of o-rings).
Attach good two-stage vacuum pump and let it go for at least 30 to 45 minutes.
Re-install drive belt and air intake tube.
Start engine and turn AC on.
Feed in 2 and 1/3 12oz cans of R-134a (V8 amount, V6 will be less) - Monitor to make sure high pressure side does not go too high!
Replace compressor guard.

* Note that it is a minor puzzle to figure out which way to turn the compressor to get it out and in, some lines have to be moved out of the way.

V6 compressor: BU2Z-19V703-KA
Receiver/dryer: XW4Z-19959-BA
Click to expand...



Excellent info there.
Of course I'm cheap, and thinking of taking a no-brand kit here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121587916163

..I still don't want to actually do it ...
Maybe in September.

Anyone know where I can rent a A/C evac kit?
 
stumpy said:
Excellent info there.
Of course I'm cheap, and thinking of taking a no-brand kit here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121587916163

..I still don't want to actually do it ...
Maybe in September.

Anyone know where I can rent a A/C evac kit?
Click to expand...

Lately, I'm cheap too. So, I tried exactly the V8 version of that kit on my 04. It worked really great... for about a month or two, then it would only cool at speed. I had to replace it with a Ford compressor.

I think that you can rent vacuum pumps and gauge sets from tool rental places, like Blue rents or such. I doubt that anyone will rent you a recovery machine, as you have to be licensed to use it. Of course, I can't tell you to just vent the R-134a to the air, but I can tell you that doing so is pretty much the same as using a few cans of air dusters.
 
Replacing the compressor was waaaaay easier on my wife's V8 than my daughter's V6. There is a bolt on the top right (as you're looking at it from the bottom) bolt is a BEAR!!! I noticed the dealer left that bolt off when they replaced the compressor under warranty. IIRC, it took my daughter and I about 5 hours to do the job. That would have been an hour or so less if I had purchased a complete compressor and not a basic transfer the pulley and field from the old compressor. Yes, you'll want to replace the dryer also.
 
Say Joe, if someone were to exhaust some refrigerant out of high side without vacuum - how would his be done safely as to not damage anything (other than the atmosphere).

I am thinking I could just use an object to push open the valve?
 
Andrizzle said:
Say Joe, if someone were to exhaust some refrigerant out of high side without vacuum - how would his be done safely as to not damage anything (other than the atmosphere).

I am thinking I could just use an object to push open the valve?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't try it that way. (It would work, but would be messy and might spray into your face.) Hypothetically (not at all saying that I have done this a few times), you could connect a high and low gauge set (really only the high or the low connection is needed, not both), and leave the third hose unconnected. The third is the one that would normally attach to a can of R-134a for filling. You would want to put the open end of the hose down in a bucket. I wouldn't know, of course, but I'd bet that some compressor oil would come out with the refrigerant and it would be messy without the bucket. Anyway, then you could safely open one of the valves on the gauge set and let the refrigerant discharge at a reasonable pace. If you did such a horrible thing, you would want to do it outside, since R-134a can be slightly toxic in a very confined space.
 
Yea I would think a slow release would minimize oil blasting through. Also this may be a dumb question, but I do this with the engine off, correct?

Thanks so much!
 
Right on. Wasn't sure the state of the R134a with gas/liquid as pertaining to if the system is running or how it works. I would think the system would not have enough resting pressure to push out refrigerant without the compressor running.
 
Andrizzle said:
Right on. Wasn't sure the state of the R134a with gas/liquid as pertaining to if the system is running or how it works. I would think the system would not have enough resting pressure to push out refrigerant without the compressor running.
Click to expand...

It will all boil and come out. It's still well above atmospheric pressure when at rest.
 
It worked. Was able to exhaust enough into the air to bring the pressure back down. Things appear to be operating correctly.

So running an overfilled system for 4 days has appeared to not do any critical damage that has been seen yet.
 
Jumping the compressor relay?

RCodePaul said:
I have the same symptoms as Gus. My '03 also blows hot air, has hi lo side pressure and lo hi side pressure on a fresh recharge with the compressor running (jumpered relay.)
Click to expand...

Can on please post info or a photo of where to jump this relay? I've read somewhere that jumping 11-5 would do it but when I look in my fuse box... I have no relay @ 11. Obviously jumping the comp. clutch is at ones own risk as it may not be kicking on for some reason, but this is a good troubleshooting step for this car's HVAC sys. Additionally, this tactic can assist in charging the system to assist in drawing in the R134a refrigerant. So please if you could share a photo or for info as to what pins to jump would be great.
 
TurbineLife said:
Can on please post info or a photo of where to jump this relay? I've read somewhere that jumping 11-5 would do it but when I look in my fuse box... I have no relay @ 11. Obviously jumping the comp. clutch is at ones own risk as it may not be kicking on for some reason, but this is a good troubleshooting step for this car's HVAC sys. Additionally, this tactic can assist in charging the system to assist in drawing in the R134a refrigerant. So please if you could share a photo or for info as to what pins to jump would be great.
Click to expand...

Yes, at your own risk.
No, connecting a single can to an empty (with full vacuum pulled) system adds enough pressure for the system to engage the clutch. There is no need to jumper it for filling.

Difficult to give you correct details on the relay without knowing which year (or at least generation) LS that you have. You might as well say if it is V6 or V8 too.
 
joegr said:
Difficult to give you correct details on the relay without knowing which year (or at least generation) LS that you have. You might as well say if it is V6 or V8 too.
Click to expand...

I have the V8 and its manufactured date is 12/02... I'm unsure if this makes it a gen one or two.
 
Do you have two windshield spray washers directly on top of the hood
... or hidden under the hood cowl?
 
BigRigLS said:
Do you have two windshield spray washers directly on top of the hood
... or hidden under the hood cowl?
Click to expand...

And/Or, is your 3rd brake light at the top or the bottom of the rear glass?

(I assume that manufacture date of 12/02 would be an 03 model year, but let's make sure.)
 
how about this... what is the 10th digit of your VIN?

if its a 2, then you have an 02, if its a 3, then you have an 03
 
reviving post to keep from double posting, I think I need the control valve on the rear of the compressor I'm haveing the cool air at drive warm at idle.

Ruled out fan by unplugging connector at front of motor and it roared like I was in a jet.

So I'm leaning towards that scroll control valve at this point.

I have my old compressor that was removed because of the clutch plates was grabbing was thinking maybe try and remove that and go from there.

Looking for part number or that good old yeah use that old part it's ok save a buck.

Thank in advance.
 
This ebay ad lists three part numbers for it.
New Ford Scroll Compressor Control Valve w/screen + O-Ring+ Spring (kit). | eBay

Amazon has what might be the same thing for $16
www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Compressor-Control-Solenoid-Freestyle/dp/B01790CY84

Looks like the prices for these range from $16 to $50. I'm not sure who the OEM for Ford was on this, or if there is any way to get the parts from them. Ford doesn't sell them without the rest of the compressor.

I'd either put the working clutch on the old compressor, or put the valve from the old compressor in the new(er) one.
 
joegr said:
This ebay ad lists three part numbers for it.
New Ford Scroll Compressor Control Valve w/screen + O-Ring+ Spring (kit). | eBay

Amazon has what might be the same thing for $16
www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Compressor-Control-Solenoid-Freestyle/dp/B01790CY84

Looks like the prices for these range from $16 to $50. I'm not sure who the OEM for Ford was on this, or if there is any way to get the parts from them. Ford doesn't sell them without the rest of the compressor.

I'd either put the working clutch on the old compressor, or put the valve from the old compressor in the new(er) one.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for the info joegr,

I was leaning towards putting the old one in I just hate I have to evacuate the system I just had it filled about two weeks ago.
 
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