2nd gear gone?

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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ok so when im in d give and driving normally it holds first gear very long then will shift into 3rd. if i manaully put it into 2 and drive it will drive but if you give it more than light throttle itll just spin through the rpms and go no where. Any ideas? 1 3 and OD work fine? I havn't done the updated acc. piston or jmod any of that so... not sure what it could be. sometimes 2nd comes back but i think now its gone for good?
 
ok it down shifts into 2nd ok when driving... and it will engage... but it feels like its going into neutral in higher rpms in 2nd or if i give it heavy throttle.... if im coasting its ok... any ideas?
 
when was the last time you changed/checked the fluid?
 
Dirty fluid would do this? I get it checked everytime I change my oil... i don't think its been changed in the last 20k... but last time i checked it, it was bright red, looked clean.

i was hoping it would be the MLPS but it only does it in 2nd gear... is this possible? 2nd gear is the only problem.
 
i was reading the faq's on the baumann website and it says if the snap ring for the 1-2 accumulator is not put back it would result in 2nd gear not working. im wondering if my snap ring broke because of the broken spring inside of the 1/2 acc which might have broke the snap ring?
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
i was reading the faq's on the baumann website and it says if the snap ring for the 1-2 accumulator is not put back it would result in 2nd gear not working. im wondering if my snap ring broke because of the broken spring inside of the 1/2 acc which might have broke the snap ring?
Click to expand...

no. do a complete fluid and filter change and report back
 
so this is a symptom of fluid then? i thought fluid would effect all the gears not just 2nd.
 
i would do a fluid and filter change first for a couple of reasons. its the cheapest and easiest, and it probally needs it anyway. if that doesnt fix it, i would start looking for another trans, or a decent shop to rebuild yours.
 
my fluid looks clean and its level is perfect.... i think it has something to do with the 1/2 accumulator spring/piston messing up - because its not attempting to shift into 1-2 like it would normally.... it tries to shift wayyyy later than normal. its as if its not shifting into 1-2 but going from 1-3. because its not wanting to engage 1-2
 
well if i have to replace the trans, at this point im not sure what is going on but if it comes down to it i guess the 5.4 liter truck 98' and up is the one to go with right?

also i read that if it was my 1 way clutch i wouldn't have 3rd or 4th right? wtf causes 2nd to just dissapear and or skip!

im guessing its not the mlps if the only gear affected is 2nd.
 
I am telling ya that 2nd gear is gone thats the exact same way mine acted when it broke. Then one day i was pissed and did a burnout threw first then it shifted to 3rd and bye bye 3rd and 4th too... just start looking for a new trans either go with one from geno or darrin.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
wtf causes 2nd to just dissapear and or skip!
Click to expand...

WOT 4-2 downshifts.

Sounds like a pressure loss issue to me. Not enough pressure to shift and not enough to hold once it does shift.

You should pull the pan and inspect the fluid, filter, magnet and 1-2 accumulator to eliminate guessing. Past that, you're looking for a tranny shop.
 
ok ive been doing some reading... so its probably either i burned out my 1-way clutch or my 1-2 accumulator is shot.

Will either of these while manually put in 2nd not allow it to hold at wot?

the symptoms of both sound like mine but i have no way to rule either of them out based on the description for both.

I've had the engine hit the rev limiter
 
i vote for the 1 way clutch, you said it went after a full throttle downshift blast? thats when they let go,they actually self destruct

rebuild or swap for newer,if thats the case,

make sure you get a mechanical diode one way if you rebuild/swap,they are considered to be indestructible,no matter what the Hp.
and yes, you lose almost all of 2nd but can still have 3-4 ,thats how mine went

i drove it easy for awhile without 2nd,until i could get it fixed
 
If you were driving with your 1-2 accumulator shot and ignored it long enough AND also played hard with it, the trans is gone. It not a good thing to drive with it damaged much less hammering on it.

You could gamble with a MLPS and fluid change, its cheaper than a trans and a lot less work. Cross your fingers and hope that works, but if the trans is toast then thats about $100 out the window.
 
how about at least checking the snap ring, someone else on here did a jmod recently and their snap ring popped out a little, he put it back in and it was fixed, since you just did a jmod and the 1-2 accumulator i would check that
 
driller said:
WOT 4-2 downshifts.
Click to expand...

+Manual Shifting UP and Down
+Nitrous

I made thousands of passes with my original stock 1st gen trans, but..
I did NOT ignore the 1-2 accumulator and I absolutely did not manual upshift or down shift.

He just needs to face the music and get himself a 98+ trans and be done with it.

Any other expense with this trans is just a waste of time, money and mercron V.
 
Fluid and Filter change-100
1-2 accumulator parts+deep pan-100+ish
MLPS - 20-30ish

I only paid 275.00 for my 30K mile 98LSC trans on Car-parts.com
got about 500 passes and 30K on it before the car was stolen.
 
who said i was shifting from 4-2 manually

if anything i would manually shift into 2nd while in drive once it engages 2nd just to hold it there... to keep it in 2nd longer because it always wanted to lug around in 3rd.
 
well, ill let you guys know what it is when i get it apart. I'm doing my research right now and im learning a lot about it.

The replies have been on the money though as i guess the gen I trans don't hold up as well.

a 98 trans could be a good buy... also Geno is a very good option... i also have been reading that the 5.4 truck 4r70w is the one to go with based on a link above... but what gearset does it have compared to the mark?

for the 98 and up trans you have to rewire it right? Now's my chance to do all the stuff i wanted to do to my trans and while i have it out other stuff as well.

3500 stall jmod/shift kit what have you beefed up new parts.

is there anyway besides pulling the pan to tell if its my 1 way clutch or accumulator?
 
Moes8 said:
i vote for the 1 way clutch, you said it went after a full throttle downshift blast? thats when they let go,they actually self destruct

rebuild or swap for newer,if thats the case,

make sure you get a mechanical diode one way if you rebuild/swap,they are considered to be indestructible,no matter what the Hp.
and yes, you lose almost all of 2nd but can still have 3-4 ,thats how mine went

i drove it easy for awhile without 2nd,until i could get it fixed
Click to expand...

agreed, im being very easy on it... however it didnt go doing a downshift "blast" it did it at wot i believe 1-2 shift then 2 starting hitting the rev limiter going no where, and i slowed down and it got into third. and sometimes it doesnt do it and it will hold..

then i went to the track, went down the track fine wot al the way through 3rd no problems. Went for a 2nd pass... i hit the spray and it did it again 1-2 but while in two on the juice it let go of 2nd and banged off the rev limter, (i disengaged the juice as soon as it slipped)

sometimes it will hold it in 2nd but usally not at full throttle so there is a chance that it is the line pressure/snap ring but im not going to hold my breath. itll be nice to have a trans i dont have to worry about. It was feeling lose before hand like always wanted to be in 3rd or 4th at low speeds feeling like a turd.
 
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