2007 Jaguar STR Brakes Confirmed

LS_Monk

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Heck if I would have know this I would have went with the jag STR set-up instead of doing the Wilwoods. I have no regrets now, but the hours and hours it took to fabricate the brackets and figure out the rotor hat size then drill to fit them on the LS I bet took over 50 hrs. If you want bigger price and to be able to complete it in an afternoon do it. You won't have any regrets. Money well spent! Here is a couple pics of mine

2012-12-17 05.27.10.jpg


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2012-09-28 11.01.15.jpg
 

hinzy

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Recently acquired some Jag R calipers, and finally got around to test fitting them today. Honestly, I was a bit skeptical they would bolt right up(Sorry, Dqiggy) but they do. I still need rotors, and brake lines (prob going with stoptech), but i don't foresee any fitment issues. Mine are off an 06 XJR

Thanks gain for pioneering this, Dwiggy.

Stock:
EF2C8C45-1355-486F-A342-DDB748EBDE24-188-0000000565F723AF_zpsa8d1865b.jpg


Jag Big Brakes:
-Still need rotors and lines. Pictured are my stock (size) rotors.
479394EE-040A-4A62-B935-9BFFB07FFB84-188-000000058440A4C5_zpsa926f3ff.jpg

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2C540764-B755-460E-BFE6-71A454D6C99C-188-00000005BBD70261_zps51a02f00.jpg

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7288D0B4-4DB9-45F8-A310-BA8E721FAC2C-188-00000005E95F3536_zps75111dc3.jpg

EA7D1D34-AF14-473B-9D96-3DEE7340ABAE-188-00000005FABCE4C8_zps629ca83b.jpg

AAFC1A64-E763-48BD-889C-7AD2419B59F2-188-0000000609958677_zps9d96686f.jpg


Stock vs Jag Big brakes:
CBC61582-5EE5-435C-87DF-04E6573AE457-188-00000005FF93B261_zps557fdf01.jpg

6A80C126-2EB4-41DF-B82B-462F1625E492-188-000000060211417B_zps47d2bbac.jpg


And a video for good measure:
Lincoln LS w/ Jaguar Big Brakes - YouTube

Those look familiar ;)

Oh yeah..... I'm back! Now I wish I wouldn't have sold them to ya cause I have to search for more :)
 

n8bachelor

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Does the STR brake upgrade fit under the stock 17" LS rims? I don't have money for both wheels/tires and the brake upgrade. I already bought the SS Lines but have not put them on my LS yet. I'm getting a bonus at work at the end of the month and plan to do brakes but would consider the upgrade if they fit under the stock wheels.
Thanks,
Nate

EDIT:
Just read the old thread and it was already confirmed they do not fit. Sorry for the wasted space.
 

hinzy

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For anyone looking for a set...

eBay item number 331216327668
 

1LoudLS

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so at first after looking at the Ebay add, I was like "why the hell does it look like somebody took a bite of of the caliper bracket. but then i noticed that everybodies looks like that.

is there a reason that they needed to do that?
 

xford

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Over the past month or so I decided to take the plunge on this brake swap. I'll do my best to include all my findings, shortcomings and experiences as this was quite the ride.

Going to start with the parts list. Mind you, this was done with all new or remanufactured parts under the assumption that compatible parts are for a 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R. Some parts from Jaguar XF's might work but I did not investigate that.

Brake Calipers:
2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Calipers Front:
Part Number: 19B3895 (19-B3895) (A-1 Cardone/RockAuto.com) - $120.89
Part Number: 19B3894 (19-B3894) (A-1 Cardone/RockAuto.com) - $120.89


2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Calipers Rear:
Part Number: 14120530 (141.20530) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $160.79
Part Number: 14120529 (141.20529) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $159.79


Notes: Prices include the core charge. All calipers come with brackets, slide pins, slide pin boots, bleeders and brake pad hardware. Rear calipers come with banjo bolt and crush washers. Front calipers only come with crush washers.

Brake Lines & Hardware:
2000 - 2006 Lincoln LS Stainless Steel Brake Lines Front:
Part Number: 950.61006 (Stoptech/R1Concenpts.com) - $89.99

2000 - 2006 Lincoln LS Stainless Steel Brake Lines Rear:
Part Number: 950.61503 (Stoptech/R1Concepts.com) - $89.99

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Brake Lines Rear:
Part Number: XR843132 & XR828045 (Jaguar/Jaguar of Troy) - $78.97

Notes: Banjo bolts that come with Stoptech SS lines will not work in Jaguar S-Type R calipers. In my case the front calipers did not come with banjo bolts, you will need to purchase the rear brake lines for 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R, get them from a very rare parts car or make them yourself. The STR rear brake lines are a few inches too short so this makes for a very expensive banjo bolt. From my couple nights of research, you can not purchase just the banjo bolt and the front lines which may be usable, does not illustrate an included banjo bolt.

Brake Rotors and Pads:
2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R OE Replacement Rotors Front Set:
Part Number: EOE.20024 (R1Concepts/R1Concepts.com) - $160.98

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R OE Replacement Rotors Rear Set:
Part Number: EOE.20024 (R1Concepts/R1Concepts.com) - $123.98

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Ceramic Brake Pads Front Set:
Part Number: 16-1240 (Power Stop/BuyBrakes.com) - $66.09

2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Ceramic Brake Pads Rear Set:
Part Number: 16-1095 (Power Stop/BuyBrakes.com) - $41.92

Notes: These are OE replacement rotors that will simply get the job done with no flair. I opted out of getting the ones that were zinc coated with painted hats and vanes and regret it. The first rain and they're showing rust. Initially brakes are quiet and dust is non-existent using this combination of pads and rotors.

Brake Fluids:
1L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: WAG FC120839 (Wagner/Auto Value Parts Stores) - $9.64

2L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: 706202 (ATE Type 200 Amber Brake Fluid/TireRack.com) - $30.00

1.5L DOT4 Fluid:
Part Number: 1204204 (Pentosin Super DOT 4 Brake Fluid/Motorwerks) - $24.75/$126.28

Notes: I bought enough fluid to fill and bleed the system at home with the help of my brother. After we were done the brake pedal was still a little spongey so I took it to Motorwerks of Commerce Township, MI to perform a brake flush, fill and bleed which cost $126.28. For those in the area, I highly recommend them.

Misc. Items:
Engine Enamel GM Satin Black:
Part Number: SP139 (VHT/Autozone) - $6.99 x 4

Paint Prep Spray:
Part Number: PS100 (Dupli-Color/Autozone) - $7.99

Brake Cleaner:
Gratuitous amounts of brake cleaner.

Stainless Steel Brush

Paper Towels

Notes: These parts were all for painting the calipers before installation. The only thing I would have done different is paint after mockup/modifications to the brackets (see install notes) and used more paint. I would suggesting using 1 can per caliper and bracket and follow the directions. I started off by scrubbing with brake cleaner, then wiping with the prep spray. Tape everything you don't want paint on for example the caliper piston, boot, e-brake mechanism and slide pint boots. Follow the directions for spraying. I then baked them after a day of drying time at 200 degrees for one hour per VHT's recommendations. The smell is more than tolerable as it does not exhibit a heavy chemical smell. I decided to paint them myself to save $200 in powder coating cost and the frustration/chance of breaking parts while disassembling the calipers.

Total cost: Including parts w/ tax, shipping and discounts plus labor for brake flush, bleed and fill I was out about $1300.



Install Notes - Mounting Brackets:
After you have gathered all your parts be sure to mock-up. The front and rear calipers had to have nubs ground down to create clearance between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket. These nubs will be obvious when you mock-up.

Install Notes - Mounting Bracket Bolts:
You can either buy 2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R front caliper mounting bracket bolts or carefully cut the LS bolts as they're too long. I did this by installing the bolts into the LS caliper mounting brackets and cut off the bolt lead plus one thread. After this the bolt, when installed, was flush with the S-Type R caliper mounting brackets. Installing the bolts in the old caliper mounting brackets, cutting and then zipping them out helps maintain/correct the thread form so you can thread them into the S-Type R caliper mounting brackets. This only needs to be done to the front bolts, the rear bolts clear the rotors.

Install Notes - EPB (Electronic Parking Brake):
Unlike earlier in this thread on a Gen. I LS (2000 - 2002), a clevis pin will not be needed for the parking brake cable to attach to the rear calipers on a Gen. II LS (2003 - 2006. They are a direct fit. With that said, after I was done with the install, I had an issue with a "Service Park Brake" in the message center. I am unsure as to what caused this but after consulting joegr's professional advice, I concluded that the EPB was working but it needed to "self adjust" due to the change in rotor and pad thickness. Reason being, The EPB would engage or actuate but would get to a certain point in the "squeeze" of the rotor and then stop and reset throwing the error message. We believe this is because the EPB thinks it is overloaded prior to reaching it's specified lock position.

This issue resolved itself two days later. To my surprise going through my vehicle park routine I pulled the e-brake lever without an error message. The error message hasn't come back since, except for leaving my buddies house the 5 days later. Stop, park, turn off car, restart, neutral, set park brake, park, turn off car, restart put in gear and the message was gone. Not that this is a reset procedure but that's what I did and it didn't come back after that occurrence. Perhaps this is the interference from an early failing DCCV but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

Break-In Notes Per Power Stop Break In Procedure:

"IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.

The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 or 6 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 or 6 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally."



Final Notes and Thoughts:
I've had my car now for 50,000+ miles. I was unsure of when and what kind of brakes were installed on my car but they worked fine except for the acceptable slow speed groan when coming to a stop and a groove in the back of one of my rotors.

After proper break-in and brake flush and bleed, these brakes will throw you through the windshield. During the break-in process with a slightly spongey pedal my rear seat flew open. It was locked but maybe not completely, but still. The brakes have good bite with minimal brake depression and are quiet from initial braking until complete stop. I don't track or continually aggressively brake my car so I can not comment on brake fade. Dust so far is minimal if not non-existent. The pedal feel is firm after minimal brake depression and I can definitely feel that it will take less effort to engage ABS if I really need to bring the car to a stop fast.

The reason I went with the rotors and pads the way I did is because I'm hoping this is the last set of brakes I do and I want them to last without the potential of cracking, being noisy, or dusty. I painted the calipers black and went with blank rotors to maintain a stock look without dipping into the bowl of rice too much. Different strokes for different folks.

Lastly, they fill out a 20" wheel nicely. Use Dwiggy and Mlara's before pics for reference. I'm trying to get involved in the car scene in my area a little bit more but it's dominated by tuners. I figured the only fast the LS is going to be is at stopping.

IMAG0077_zpse9a667d0.jpg


Special thanks to Dwiggy for the initial help and answering my questions. He did this brake swap with parts off of a parts car so he didn't have to go through some of these problems.

Special thanks to joegr for continuing to spill the knowledge on LVC. I asked him about my EPB problems and although he didn't know for sure he gave a best guess at what was wrong and was quick to respond even though it wasn't an LS specific question/concern.

I have decided to take the plunge here and ordered all the parts. I also got the Banjo Bolts per jrt1418's post. Can you add clarity on "The front and rear calipers had to have nubs ground down to create clearance between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket. These nubs will be obvious when you mock-up." does this have to be done with a grinder or just a file? It also appears there are no "rattle clips" in this brake setup - correct? Anything else I should be aware of prior to install? Thanks everyone for the effort and research here.
 

xford

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Getting ready to do the install and since I ordered remanufactured from Rock Auto no logos were included. - just hit the front rattle clips with High Temp Black and added XJR type Logos - I think the white "R" will pop with my white tri-coat paint. Need to coat with High Temp clear next.
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Doing a custom metal bracket for the rear logo:

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More to come soon...

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xford

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Brakes are done. The best MOD I have completed to date with the exception of the SCT Tune. I have read the various arguments from an engineering perspective on stopping distance vs. stock, and will not argue the merits, but will simply say these are a dramatic improvement in brake feel, esp. when feathering and stoping is IMO significantly improved. A friend who has driven the vehicle many times stated the brakes feel 30%+ better. From a cosmetic aspect the new binders fill up my Senta 20"s nicely! I also replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft one from Rock Auto and ordered an S-Type R master cylinder to see if it would work - no luck. A few shots(from my cell):
Rear
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Rear with custom bracket for the R logo
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Front
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Cant see the binders but my Z51 C7 front rotors 13.6" and rear 13.3" and the LS-R Front 14.3" and rear 12.9"!
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Added an XJR logo to the rear for fun!
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xford

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P.S. I put my old Powder Coated Calipers and drilled Slotted Rotors along w/ Nav discs 7d and 4d, OEM springs and an Jaguar STR Left Front Caliper (left over from the project - never tried it and from a junk yard) in the "For Sale" section
 

Murderedv8

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I have a couple questions will this fit first gen ls (2000)? Also should I get 2006-2008 jaguar s type r non brembo or what? Also would this bolt in with factory suspension or what do I need?
 

xford

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#1 Yes - this thread by dwiggy is based on a Gen 1 LS - As shown it also works with a Gen 2 with a few minor variations relative to the parking brake
#2 Yes - Non-Brembo only
#3 Yes - start on page one of this thread and follow the instructions
 

FDR

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2005 - 2008 Jaguar S-Type R Calipers Rear:
Part Number: 14120530 (141.20530) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $160.79
Part Number: 14120529 (141.20529) (Centric/RockAuto.com) - $159.79

Can anyone confirm these numbers? I took a look at RockAuto. It lists those as the base model parts and says 14120535 and 14120536 are the R rears. When I clicked Add to Cart for the 35/36 calipers, though, it removed them from the cart telling me they're unavailable, so good start either way. Centric's site gives the same numbers. However, Rockauto does list the 29/30 calipers as 2009 XF calipers, and it seems all 2009 XFs use 326mm rear rotors, which would be the correct size
 

FDR

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I guess I'll just find out for myself. Considering the 326mm front S-type Sport setup fits in the stock wheels, these rears hopefully also fit... if not, I guess I'll just find the cheapest, ugliest craigslist 20" concave chrome crap I can to contradict the brakes

RA rear brake order.jpg

I bought the 64 Corvette clevis pins and got Goodridge 10mmx1 banjo bolts on eBay, $36 total. Saved myself $0.80 on shipping by going through Eckler's ebay store.

make-it-rain-o-1.gif


For what it's worth, those caliepr numbers are different from the LS and early S-type numbers (which match each other)

Bonus: my car back when it was stock with a 'shop drop and 'shopped 19" Forgestar F14 wheels that "came" with StR brakes. Apparently it's been 2 years since I last took a side shot of my car; I'm all about that straight front and front 45°. I no longer have the pinstripe nor window chrome

Stock w F14 rims.jpg

RA rear brake order.jpg


Stock w F14 rims.jpg
 

DeviLSh

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Considering the 326mm front S-type Sport setup fits in the stock wheels,

EDIT:
Does the STR brake upgrade fit under the stock 17" LS rims?.....Just read the old thread and it was already confirmed they do not fit. Sorry for the wasted space.

FDR: Just double checking - what "stock wheels" are you referring to? These late STR brakes will not fit with OEM LS wheels, was my understanding. (and man do I wish they did, because I want a set of these brakes bad, so I am forced to upsize if I get a set)
 

FDR

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Stock 17s. I'm only doing the rears right now, so I'm hoping those work. I know the front StR calipers won't fit in our 17s, but the 320 or 325mm S-type Sports do. I have a dragging caliper and it would just seem silly to do the job twice haha
 

G-RELL

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I guess I'll just find out for myself. Considering the 326mm front S-type Sport setup fits in the stock wheels, these rears hopefully also fit... if not, I guess I'll just find the cheapest, ugliest craigslist 20" concave chrome crap I can to contradict the brakes

View attachment 828475381

I bought the 64 Corvette clevis pins and got Goodridge 10mmx1 banjo bolts on eBay, $36 total. Saved myself $0.80 on shipping by going through Eckler's ebay store.

make-it-rain-o-1.gif


For what it's worth, those caliepr numbers are different from the LS and early S-type numbers (which match each other)

Bonus: my car back when it was stock with a 'shop drop and 'shopped 19" Forgestar F14 wheels that "came" with StR brakes. Apparently it's been 2 years since I last took a side shot of my car; I'm all about that straight front and front 45°. I no longer have the pinstripe nor window chrome

View attachment 828475382

something looks funny....maybe it was the lighting... can you darken the wheels.
 

Deaconblue

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Boy the combination of the color, stance, wheels and Brembo brakes sure makes her look like a short wheel base BWM 740i Sport model.
 

FDR

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something looks funny....maybe it was the lighting... can you darken the wheels.

Trust me, I see it too. Right on top, the rear is at an angle. As for color, when I initially made it, I tried fixing it for about 10 minutes and then gave up out of laziness because the StR tire was included with the rim. I've seen all I need to. All I need to know is if the 18" version will clear StR fronts :)

But just for you, I'll go in and [try to] do it right

Boy the combination of the color, stance, wheels and Brembo brakes sure makes her look like a short wheel base BWM 740i Sport model.

I can see that too. The rims definitely have a BMW M-sport presence. There's actually a early/mid 90s 7-series a few blocks away with very similar H.R.E.s. But that car is painted pink with house paint and the rims are neon green

Rims downsized and recolorized, StR tires erased. I can't do anything about the perspective on the rear wheel looking like it has 20° of toe out, not in this picture. I'm using Gimp, not Photoshop, so I don't have a real Warp tool. For the color, I had to separate the spokes entirely from both the tire and the darkness behind it. At least I have a proper magic select tool

Stock w F14 rims.jpg

It's still a bad photo, though, in my opinion. This was just in my "just got it, so pretty, picture picture picture every side every angle" stage. Now it's "don't look back, you parked it, just walk away, cool guys don't look back.. don't.. look.......... *single picture*"

Stock w F14 rims.jpg
 

FDR

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I swear I posted last night and even saw the reply count say 171...

I did a test fit without the brake pads (they came the next day) and things are looking good, but tiiiight. Caliper to wheel barrel is maybe a bit more than 1/4", caliper to internal wheel weights is about 1/8". There are nubs sticking out that are close to the wheel's fillet where the spoke meets the barrel. I'm painting the parts black now, but I should be able to report back tonight... I'm missing some car meets over this :( I'm still waiting on the Corvette e-brake clevis to come in.

The rear Centric StR calipers came with the male banjo bolts

The calipers have a different design from the LS. Where the LS caliper gets bolted to the slide pins, with the pins sliding in the bracket, the StR setup bolts the pins to the bracket and lets the caliper slide on the pins. Interesting. I'll add comparison pictures later

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FDR

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Ouch... for me to even consider running these in stockers, I'd need spacers. Any recommendations? Eibach makes a 5mm, 65mm bore spacer, but I think I'd rather go with a 10mm spacer just because if I'm gonna get them at all, I want them to at least make a visual difference. Would I really need to use longer lugs? I remember when doing a test fit of the Sebring/Galant nuts, they threaded on about 14-15 turns. On a M12x1.5 bolt, that means they traveled... bear with me, the 1.5 signifies pitch of the threads

1.5 pitch is 16.93 threads per inch, number turns divided by TPI gives you distance (14/16.93=0.827), 0.827in*25.4mm per inch = 21mm of thread engagement. Minimum NHRA thread engagement is 1.5x lug diameter, so a 12mm lug requires 18mm of engagement, giving me only 3mm of NHRA-satisfying wiggle room... Ugh. So it's either 5mm spacers ($80/pair for the Eibach/Volvo spacers at Summit, $70/pair for customs from Motorsport-Tech, shipping not included) or I change my schedule and get new wheels ($$$$$$)...

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FDR

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Any opinions on 5mm spacers with no wheel-centering ring? It'd be hub centric, but it seems to be too thin to at least put a matching (or smaller) wheel bore ring. They claim the factory hub sticks out more than 5mm
 

Alax7

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You could always go with a 19mm, I think was the lowest spacers with new studs they make, motorsports-tech spacer to give you a +41mm offset. It will give you a noticeable change, it will clear the calipers, and give you the use of the full length of threads needed, its a win win win, besides maybe the price but you have to pay to play.
 

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