2002 Lincoln LS V8 Cranks but Won't Start

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moe

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Hi all,
Let me start off by saying, I am new to troubleshooting car problems. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V8 that has been sitting steady in a garage for about a year. Every few weeks, I've been starting it up and letting it run for a few minutes. Occasionally, I wait too long and the battery dies. After a quick charge with a battery charger, it starts up fine.

Last week, I started it up with no problems. No battery charge was needed. One week later, the engine cranks but it will not turn over.

I read something about checking the Idle Air Control Valve. Is this a good place to start for a newbie? Is there some other things I should be checking for this situation?

Many Thanks! :)
 
IAC Valve symptoms would be low RPM's, stalling/dying at an idle. Give it a proper jump and see if that works.

Some other things to check:
- is there fuel in the tank? :D
- do you hear fuel pump whine when turning key on but before turning the engine over?
 
Here's another quick check for you.

Unplug the MAF sensor and see if it will start and run then. If it will, the MAF is bad or dirty or you have a big intake air leak. (This is a long shot.)

Also, make sure the battery is fully charged. If the fuel pump is marginal, it may not run even though there is enough for the starter to run. (Believe it or not, I have seen this happen.)
 
joegr said:
Here's another quick check for you.

Unplug the MAF sensor and see if it will start and run then. If it will, the MAF is bad or dirty or you have a big intake air leak. (This is a long shot.)

Also, make sure the battery is fully charged. If the fuel pump is marginal, it may not run even though there is enough for the starter to run. (Believe it or not, I have seen this happen.)
Click to expand...

Isn't this where you would normally ask what the PATS light is doing? :D
 
hinzy said:
Isn't this where you would normally ask what the PATS light is doing? :D
Click to expand...

Not when the starter is engaging. PATS should stop the starter from running too.
Still, I guess it wouldn't hurt to know what that light is up to.
 
stumpie said:
BMW E46 330i Fuel Pump Sound - YouTube
Click to expand...

Funny you should post that one.
Today the BMW wouldn't start for my wife. The first thing I checked for for the fuel pump sound, which was missing. I verified that it was getting power and read the fuel pump motor as open circuit.
I pulled the pump out, hit it with a hammer a few times, and put it back in. This got it to working at least long enough that I could move it out of the way of my car. I have a replacement pump, seal, filter, and relay on the way. (I figure if the pump is worn out, the relay probably isn't far behind.)
 
joegr said:
Funny you should post that one.
Today the BMW wouldn't start for my wife. The first thing I checked for for the fuel pump sound, which was missing. I verified that it was getting power and read the fuel pump motor as open circuit.
I pulled the pump out, hit it with a hammer a few times, and put it back in. This got it to working at least long enough that I could move it out of the way of my car. I have a replacement pump, seal, filter, and relay on the way. (I figure if the pump is worn out, the relay probably isn't far behind.)
Click to expand...

I had to do the same thing with my Ranger when the pump was going out. Only in the morning, kick the fuel tank a few times and it was good all day, then the next morning kick it again.

Until that stopped working...haha.
 
Okay, I don't hear the fuel pump.

Could this be something to do with electrical cut-off switch? I ask this because I remembered back a month ago or so, my son thought he was charging the car battery with the battery charger, but when I came home I noticed the battery charger was in the START position, as if we were going to jump it. The battery charger was plugged in and in the START position all day long while connected to the car battery. Could this have damaged something?

Many Thanks!
 
Don't think so, but you could reset it. It won't hurt anything.

The fuel pump shut-off switch is located in the driver’s foot well, behind the kick panel. The reset button (RED) for the fuel pump shut-off switch is accessible through an opening in the kick panel. Use the following procedure to reset the fuel pump shut-off switch.
1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position.
2. Check the fuel system for leaks.
3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by
pushing in on the reset button.
4. Turn the ignition to the RUN position. Pause for a few seconds and
return the key to the OFF position.
5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system

(The checking for leaks is basically precautionary because the only way the cut-off should have been triggered is as the result of a jolt or crash, which could have shaken things loose)

My bet is on Fuse 4 in the passenger compartment fuse panel (behind RH kick panel). Otherwise, bad relay at the fuel pump (located under the rear bench seat).
 
Yes, it could have. The two things this is most likely to damage would be the car's battery and the charger itself. Otherwise, the higher voltage and the AC ripple may have done some damage to the electronics, but the chance is not too high. How old is the battery charger?

Check all fuses.
You may want to take the battery and have it load tested. Otherwise, use a meter to measure the battery voltage while someone is cranking the car. If it dips below 9V, then the battery is damaged.

The fuel pump cutoff switch is mechanically triggered. Push down on the plunger. If it's already down, then it's probably not your problem.

We can guide you to the trouble shooting to see if the fuel pump is the problem or if the problem is that it isn't being powered. If you have a multi-meter and are willing to try this, let us know.
 
stumpie said:
... Otherwise, bad relay at the fuel pump (located under the rear bench seat).
Click to expand...

That's where the fuel pump is, but not where the relay is. (The relay is in the trunk. The REM, also in the trunk, also has an electronic switch in it for the fuel pump speed control.)
 
Thanks for your fast response guys.

On a second try, it does now sound like I do hear the fuel pump after all. I guess I had to listen more carefully. It's very faint.

I checked the fuel cut-off switch and it was already pushed down.

Due to the way the car is stuck in the garage, I cannot get to the fuse panel on the passenger side at this moment in order to check fuse 4.

I took the battery out and brought it to Advance Auto Parts. They ran a test and it said, "Battery charge is low and must be charged to determine condition". So he told me to come back in 35 minutes after they charge it. I left and went back and he said that the battery didn't pick up any CCA's. I asked him if the tester does load testing and he said yes, but the print-out results didn't say anything specific about load testing.

Motorcraft BXT-66-650

Results Before Charge:
Voltage: 12.54v
Measured: 461 CCA
Rated: 650 CCA
Temp: 64F

Results After Charge:
Voltage: 12.97v
Measured: 462 CCA
Rated: 650 CCA
Temp: 64F

One other thing, I put my charger/starter on it in START mode and tried to start it up that way, but no good. It still cranks but it just won't turn over.

They want $130 for their "Gold" battery. I may have to go that route. I just hope I can trust that he actually charged it when he said he did and is not just trying to sell a battery.

Many Thanks!
 
moe said:
...They want $130 for their "Gold" battery. I may have to go that route. I just hope I can trust that he actually charged it when he said he did and is not just trying to sell a battery.

Many Thanks!
Click to expand...

Don't do it. That's not the right battery. You need one with the vent connection for safety and to prevent corrosion in the trunk.

Your local Ford or Lincoln dealer will sell you the exact correct battery (750 CCA) for about $120.
 
Ok guys, I went to Ford and got a new battery and I still have the same problem.

I guess my next step is to check fuse 4? And the Fuel Pump Relay? I do have a multimeter and would appreciate any assistance.

Many Thanks!
 
moe said:
Ok guys, I went to Ford and got a new battery and I still have the same problem.

I guess my next step is to check fuse 4? And the Fuel Pump Relay? I do have a multimeter and would appreciate any assistance.

Many Thanks!
Click to expand...

IF you are really hearing the fuel pump run, then there' no point to look at the fuel pump relay.
Things you can do...

Measure fuel pressure at the fuel rail.
Try to start it with the MAF disconnected.
Try to start it with starting fluid sprayed into the intake.
Check for spark at one of the plugs.
Use a scan tool with live data.
Compression check.
 
You're right. That made no sense. I guess I have to get straight whether or not I'm actually hearing the fuel pump. Maybe I should take off the back seat.
 
moe said:
... Maybe I should take off the back seat.
Click to expand...

Yes, that would make it easier to tell.
There are two latch levers at the front of the back seat bottom to release it. After that, it just lifts out.
 
Ok guys, I lifted the back seat up and I can't hear anything coming from the fuel pump area. However, I do hear a humming sound when I turn the key to the on position. It just doesn't sound like it's coming from the back seat. If I turn the key back to the off position and then back to the on position, the humming sound will not happen.

I checked Fuse 4 and it's fine.

I would appreciate any help on troubleshooting the fuel pump relay. I do have a multimeter.

Many Thanks!
 
Step 1: Pull it out, check for corrosion.
Step 2: Switch with an equal size/whatever compatible relay.
 
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