2001 Lincoln LS8 in Virginia (757)

fceebb260bed00d91f13c2b7c41c879f.jpg


I can't get these suckers off!!!
 
1LoudLS said:
step one: remove plastic engine cover

step two: look for them.



thats really it, just like every single V8 I've ever owned, the fuel injectors are at the base of the intake manifold, just above each valve cover, evenly spaced out above each cylinder, the fuel rail connects to each injector.



View attachment 828475347

you can clearly see them in this picture, it is the only horizontal silver/metal tube in the picture. (I though some LS's were painted black?)

if you still cant find the fuel rail, then make sure that you have a V* because the V6 has both rails running next to each other right down the center under the upper intake...




EDIT: look at these ebay adds for intake manifolds, you can clearly see the (black) fuel rails on the pictures

http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-02-linco...ash=item4649a82dd0:g:yW4AAOSw3KFWgxh8&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2006-L...ash=item4af9e669a3:g:~7sAAOSwFNZW0Mjh&vxp=mtr
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That's exactly the issue. They were painted black. However I found them. Still no pressure...

Still stuck on these disconnects
 
There's a tool for those lines. Rather, there's a set of tools for that. I bought them for myother car's transmission/radiator lines thinking "another one time use tool" but I've used them on transmission, AC, and fuel lines. Worth the ~$15.

When the tool is [forcefully] put in place, you don't have to hold it, usually, letting you use both hands to pull the lines apart.I haven't done the fuel filter lines, but I've done the line over the engine multiple times with no problem
 
FDR said:
There's a tool for those lines. Rather, there's a set of tools for that. I bought them for myother car's transmission/radiator lines thinking "another one time use tool" but I've used them on transmission, AC, and fuel lines. Worth the ~$15.

When the tool is [forcefully] put in place, you don't have to hold it, usually, letting you use both hands to pull the lines apart.I haven't done the fuel filter lines, but I've done the line over the engine multiple times with no problem
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Do u know the name?!
 
FDR said:
There's a tool for those lines. Rather, there's a set of tools for that. I bought them for myother car's transmission/radiator lines thinking "another one time use tool" but I've used them on transmission, AC, and fuel lines. Worth the ~$15.

When the tool is [forcefully] put in place, you don't have to hold it, usually, letting you use both hands to pull the lines apart.I haven't done the fuel filter lines, but I've done the line over the engine multiple times with no problem
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Picture?
 
He's steering you wrong. He's talking about the fuel line quick disconnect tool, but the connections at the fuel pump don't use those. The tool he's talking about is needed at the fuel rail and the fuel filter.
Search, and your answer has been here all along...
https://www.google.ca/search?as_q=l..._occt=any&safe=images&as_filetype=&as_rights=

(I and my negativity were going to stay out of this, but I hate to see someone pointed in the wrong direction.)
 
Got it running! !!

Now it stalls after sitting. ..
Runs roughly, shakes, then stalls out.

I know the COP has a factor, but not for it to cut off.
 
I had the same problem. Crabks runs. And dies. Killled my battery. Three times. To find out it was the alternator and boom it was fixed
 
It can be..............but the main thing is you may be straining your new pump. don-ohio :)^)
 
Gen 1 alternators, are a special breed. They are regulated by the PCM, not by an internal or external regulator like every other car out there. That said, almost nobody here who has tried it has gotten a parts store alternator to work correctly. You're going to need a Motorcraft alternator for the car. I'm sure the one or two people who have gotten a non-Motorcraft alternator will chime in, hopefully with information on their setup to help you find one that will work.

Replacing it is not too difficult, just spend a few hours playing Tetris, and you'll be able to remove it through the passenger side lower control arm. The alternator is mounted on the underside of the engine, and my comment will make more sense when you get under there to remove it.
 
Telco said:
Gen 1 alternators, are a special breed. They are regulated by the PCM, not by an internal or external regulator like every other car out there. That said, almost nobody here who has tried it has gotten a parts store alternator to work correctly. You're going to need a Motorcraft alternator for the car. I'm sure the one or two people who have gotten a non-Motorcraft alternator will chime in, hopefully with information on their setup to help you find one that will work.

Replacing it is not too difficult, just spend a few hours playing Tetris, and you'll be able to remove it through the passenger side lower control arm. The alternator is mounted on the underside of the engine, and my comment will make more sense when you get under there to remove it.
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Ty. Yea alternators are a pain to remove. I've removed them from other cars. I guess ill be playing with this one too if this fuel filter doesn't change this topic of discussion.
 
Telco said:
Gen 1 alternators, are a special breed. They are regulated by the PCM, not by an internal or external regulator like every other car out there. ...
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Not every, just most. It could be worse. BMW (I know, not your favorite) is really crazy on some of their more recent cars. They keep the alternator off if the battery is at least 80% (or some other percentage they picked) charged, unless the car is coasting down hill. It's trying to squeeze a tiny bit more MPG out. It doesn't save the owner any money though. On some models, the battery must now be replaced at each oil change.
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
So... back to my topic? Lol
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So, monitor battery voltage (you can do it from the power port) as you are driving and idling. Ideally, it should stay at about 14.2 volts. Anything below 13.8, and the alternator is not keeping up. If it drops below 11, then you have found a likely reason for it stalling. Gen II doesn't seem to care which alternator you put in, but with your gen I, Motorcraft is the only one that it very likely to work. (I'm sure one or two of the aftermarket guys got it right, but apparently many did not.)

BTW, the alternator is amazingly fun to change on the LS. Might be easier if you removed the engine first. Also, if there is any chance that you need motor mounts (they are oil filled, look for stains under them), it will be easier to change the right one while the alternator is out.
 
joegr said:
So, monitor battery voltage (you can do it from the power port) as you are driving and idling. Ideally, it should stay at about 14.2 volts. Anything below 13.8, and the alternator is not keeping up. If it drops below 11, then you have found a likely reason for it stalling. Gen II doesn't seem to care which alternator you put in, but with your gen I, Motorcraft is the only one that it very likely to work. (I'm sure one or two of the aftermarket guys got it right, but apparently many did not.)

BTW, the alternator is amazingly fun to change on the LS. Might be easier if you removed the engine first. Also, if there is any chance that you need motor mounts (they are oil filled, look for stains under them), it will be easier to change the right one while the alternator is out.
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Oddly enough, i drove it to the Tire shop to have mine replaced and it didn't cut off. It felt as if it were gonna, but never did. I'm changing out my fuel filter tomorrow. So, hopefully that helps a bit. My valve cover is leaking oil. Plums of smoke when I stop at a light..Gotta love it.

It drives roughly, but picks up speed after 10 seconds from 0-30ish... Not sure afterwards, I couldn't go over on the streets...I'll try in the morning on the way to work on the highway.
 
Another thing....do you have the airbox tube tight on the throttle body and air filter housing? It could be a vacuum leak of some kind,the way you describe it as stumbling then correcting. Make sure of no vacuum leaks.don-ohio
 
joegr said:
Not every, just most. It could be worse. BMW (I know, not your favorite) is really crazy on some of their more recent cars. They keep the alternator off if the battery is at least 80% (or some other percentage they picked) charged, unless the car is coasting down hill. It's trying to squeeze a tiny bit more MPG out. It doesn't save the owner any money though. On some models, the battery must now be replaced at each oil change.
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GM is doing the same, but it's (at least on GM) just a simple on/off using I think the F port on the alternator. It doesn't attempt to say under this expected engine/electrical system load the system needs X amount of juice and it's not getting an erg more no matter how much crap's attached to the electrical system like the Gen 1 does.
 
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