10k oil changers

lseguy said:
actually, a 3k oil change (in theory) can cause more harm than good.

Why? An engine gets the most wear at startup. The absolute MOST wear occurs at first startup post oil change. Why? Because of the additional seconds it takes for the oil filter to fill with oil. I used to notice how long my oil pressure light stayed on upon the first start after an oil change.

so..fewer dry-post oil change starts..the less wear on the engine.

By the way..I now fill my oil filter with oil first, turn the filter on its side and rotate the oil all around the filter pleats and get it soaked, then install the filter. Helps reduce the time that oil pressure light is on on that first start
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I've never once noticed my oil pressure light on after an oil change at first start-up (maybe because I fill the filter). Not filling the filter at least partially full when changing oil is just a bad idea anyways.
 
All I know is that I change my oil on my LS as suggested.

Never notice any improvements-boo hoo, but I never notice any problems-whoo hoo!


I use what ever they toss at me from the dealership I purchased the car since they give me a lifetime discount.


Im assuming it is all the OEM stuff that came with the car since it is a Lincoln/Mercury dealership.
 
I also put a little oil in the filter, always have. I once put too much into the LS's filter not really paying attention that the thing was sideways. That was a little messy. :D
 
I have thought about trying the partial filter fill on the Mark VIII - i can't see it ending well though! Lol.
 
That seems a little overkill, everything is still coated with oil. I have never got the oil light on, but you do hear a little valvetrain noise until there is enough oil to dampen the sound. I would guess starting the car would be even worse since it has all night to drain the oil off the surfaces.

Despite all that, engines still last at least 100K unless there was a manufacturing defect, and sometimes up to 300K. Just use Mobil 1 and a Purolator filter on the V8 (M1 on the V6) and be done with it.
 
93' Blue on blue said:
I have thought about trying the partial filter fill on the Mark VIII - i can't see it ending well though! Lol.
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yeah, i had a 94 tbird which i assume is very similar (2V vs 4V). there was only 1 way to get that damn filter up in there, or more importantly, get the used one out and it always meant dumping used oil onto the lip of the crossmember, of which a rubber hose sits in.
 
Yup, you got it 02LincLS - The power steering hose is in just the wrong spot - and mine has the hose securing clip going right where i need to slide the filter in / out. Total pita. Bad design.

Now, once I've changed the oil, i just prime the system without letting the car start by the WOT trick. (crank engine a few times with pedal pressed to floor - ECU won't let engine start) Then i start as normal - no chain rattle and oil light goes off instantly.
 
02LincLS said:
yeah, i had a 94 tbird which i assume is very similar (2V vs 4V). there was only 1 way to get that damn filter up in there, or more importantly, get the used one out and it always meant dumping used oil onto the lip of the crossmember, of which a rubber hose sits in.
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I had an '89 T-Bird SC, which had, from the factory, a relocated oil filter--and they still got the damned thing above the crossmember. It always ran down to the lip on the crossmember, then "drained" in a drip-edge line. Aggravating as all get-out.

The filter on my Explorer's 4.0 SOHC, on the other hand, was one of the better ones--it hung vertically, and was pretty much unobstructed, so it was easy to reach and oil would drain straight down into the catch pan.

BTW, I always fill (or at least partially fill) the filter when I change the oil, regardless of the car. I lose a tiny bit on the LS, but it's not bad, and I don't particularly like the idea of waiting for the filter to fill before the oil starts pumping. It may not amount to much difference, but it's a difference I can control with very little effort...
 
I would guess starting the car would be even worse since it has all night to drain the oil off the surfaces.
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That's why the filter has an anti drain-back valve. It keeps the oil from draining out of the feed passages while the engine is off, if it didn't have that you would know it every time you started the car. And those valves can go bad from time to time, usually on cheap filters ( :cough: Fram :cough cough: ), and you'll know it if it goes bad too.
 
for all practical purposes, yes. There's still a very small amount of time without pressure, but your feeds and filter are already full so it quickly goes away. I would say an oil change is no worse in that everywhere still has a coating on it, enough to lubricate until pressure is restored. and with that said, I may fill my filter anyway! :p
 
Think I'm going to get one of those fluid transfer pumps. (like you use for filling a diff case) That way, i can wrestle my new filter up into position, fill it with the pump and screw it on quickly before i get soaked with oil. :)
 
02LincLS said:
yeah, i had a 94 tbird which i assume is very similar (2V vs 4V). there was only 1 way to get that damn filter up in there, or more importantly, get the used one out and it always meant dumping used oil onto the lip of the crossmember, of which a rubber hose sits in.
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Yeah I don't miss changing the oil on my '95 T-Bird at all. I think it took an hour the first time to figure out how to get the filter out.

I still haven't changed the oil on my LS. I think the dealer changed it before I bought it in July, oil looked clean and the filter looked brand new. I've only driven about 1500 miles since then.
 
The LS is a lot friendlier. Hell, if you're skinny, you can change it without jacking it up! Im lowered though so thats out. Even if you jack it up, it still only takes about 15 minutes including getting all your tools out and away again and cleaning up.
 
Any reason Lincoln recommends the part synthetic oil? I would think full synthetic wouldn't hurt but why couldn't you use dino oil?

The recommended Motorcraft is pretty cheap so I think I'll just use that. Seven quarts for a V6 engine is a lot, too.
 
02LincLS said:
The LS is a lot friendlier. Hell, if you're skinny, you can change it without jacking it up! Im lowered though so thats out. Even if you jack it up, it still only takes about 15 minutes including getting all your tools out and away again and cleaning up.
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yeah its pretty easy, you just need the right tool to get the filter off, they could of put it in a tighter spot...:rolleyes:
 
LongIslandLSE said:
yeah its pretty easy, you just need the right tool to get the filter off, they could of put it in a tighter spot...:rolleyes
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:confused: To remove the oil filter from my LS, I use the same regular old oil filter strap wrench I've been using for the last 15+ years (since I bought my first car that used a dinky FL400A). Of all the oil filters I've ever had to change, the LS's is one of the most conveniently-placed.
 
SoonerLS said:
:confused: To remove the oil filter from my LS, I use the same regular old oil filter strap wrench I've been using for the last 15+ years (since I bought my first car that used a dinky FL400A). Of all the oil filters I've ever had to change, the LS's is one of the most conveniently-placed.
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it is easy to get too but if yo dont have a strap wrench or an end wrench its hard. I bought one of those metal circle wrenches and i guess they changed them because the way it tightened it did not work. i bought the end cap wrench, works like a charm.
 
10,000 miles on a synthetic oil is fine as long as you get it checked out with an oil analysis. I use Blackstone Labs. I actually go around 6000 miles on my 98 LSC which is driven HARD but 10,000 miles on the G35. Wear is lower than average with 10,000 mile oil changes using Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Pennzoil Platinum. All have very similar performance.
 
LongIslandLSE said:
I bought one of those metal circle wrenches and i guess they changed them because the way it tightened it did not work.
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Mine has a yellow handle, but it looks pretty much like this:
d010b290-e4ed-4f85-a94e-bf80df993083_4.jpg
 
LongIslandLSE said:
it is easy to get too but if yo dont have a strap wrench or an end wrench its hard. I bought one of those metal circle wrenches and i guess they changed them because the way it tightened it did not work. i bought the end cap wrench, works like a charm.
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should have flipped the wrench around for it to loosin the filter
 
93' Blue on blue said:
Think I'm going to get one of those fluid transfer pumps. (like you use for filling a diff case) That way, i can wrestle my new filter up into position, fill it with the pump and screw it on quickly before i get soaked with oil. :)
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Well, i just tried filling the filter with oil (prior to taking it out to vehicle) and it worked out great! Nearly 3/4 of a Quart was actually absorbed into the filter medium without leaking back out (due to the anti-drainback valve)

Gotta clean up the kitchen floor now though! :D
 
lincoln00 said:
should have flipped the wrench around for it to loosin the filter
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tried every which way, the one pictured above are the older ones, the new ones my local auto parts store was selling sucked. they only tightened in one direction, i could not flip it. By the time the wrench was tight on the filter, the handle was just about 90 degrees to the filter, plain and simple not enough room to move.
 
just use one with a soft strap. it goes either way. or...
don't use one at all. stab it with a screwdriver to get it off, and put the new one on hand tight (1/2 to 3/4 turn after the gasket touches). Then its easy to remove next time.
 
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