LongIslandLSE
Well-Known LVC Member
what filters do you use. I do my oil myself because I dont trust the 18 year old at the local lube shop.
10k oil changers
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Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Stop.
LongIslandLSE
Well-Known LVC Member
why, what us the advantage of dealer oil changes.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
He might of meant the 10k oil changes.
yeah, that's ballsy doing 10K unless you drive like grandma. I use Mobil 1 15K and change at 5K with the purolator filter. i hear nightmares about other brands.
there is a place that sells free oil testing kits and then charges $22.50 to test it and email your results. I just ordered my kit since I'm due for an oil change. The test looks for all kinds of metals and contaminates, as well as what the lubricity factor of the sample is. it can tell you if your getting bearing wear, or dirt in the intake, and much more. i will share my results when i get to it and it would be cool if some others did this as well. here's the link...
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
my buddy did this with his subaru which he also runs Mobil 1 in and found some copper hinting towards possible bearing wear. also found silicon, an indication of dirt. he changed the air filter and did an oil change and will inspect again after this oil cycle. i should add that the levels he found were only a shade above normal. he also runs the Mobil 1 oil filter so we were surprised there was any silicon there. I'm kinda nervous about my reading since i have the purolator and K&N air filter.
there is a place that sells free oil testing kits and then charges $22.50 to test it and email your results. I just ordered my kit since I'm due for an oil change. The test looks for all kinds of metals and contaminates, as well as what the lubricity factor of the sample is. it can tell you if your getting bearing wear, or dirt in the intake, and much more. i will share my results when i get to it and it would be cool if some others did this as well. here's the link...
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
my buddy did this with his subaru which he also runs Mobil 1 in and found some copper hinting towards possible bearing wear. also found silicon, an indication of dirt. he changed the air filter and did an oil change and will inspect again after this oil cycle. i should add that the levels he found were only a shade above normal. he also runs the Mobil 1 oil filter so we were surprised there was any silicon there. I'm kinda nervous about my reading since i have the purolator and K&N air filter.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
OCI depends on a lot of things!
You can get by with 10k OCI if you start with a clean motor, use a good oil, have a good air filter, good oil filter ect...
I would change my oil filter ever 5k if I was going 10k on oil though....
You can get by with 10k OCI if you start with a clean motor, use a good oil, have a good air filter, good oil filter ect...
I would change my oil filter ever 5k if I was going 10k on oil though....
LongIslandLSE
Well-Known LVC Member
i hear you on the oil filter every 5k but mobil one should be good for 10k. The high grade oil and cars we have today 10k should be no problem. The 3k rule was made way back in the day, but i dont drive like a maniac either. I get beat off the line by everyone and i mean everyone. The only time i drive fast is when i am cruising on the highway at 75.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
If you hop in and drive you car for 30 minutes or more every time you start the motor it will stay cleaner longer than if you make a large amount of short trips.
revolutionaryconcepts
Active LVC Member
I recommend wix filters to everyone, they have the lowest pressure drop across them of any on the market and a very good particulate pass efficiency, keep in mind most junk under 25 microns is too small to hurt most engines, so those filters that say 3 micron first pass filtration are doing so at the sacrifice of oil pressure, some weve seen in testing drop almost 20psi the wix filter for our cars only drops 4 and my oil was always clean
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
And... You have a failed engine to show for it.
Husker Z
Well-Known LVC Member
I use AmsOil 0W30 and change the filter only at 10K and full oil change at 25K, have been for years. The only reason I change the filter early is because Amsoil doesn't offer a EaO filter for the LS or my S60R. Actually now, I just change the oil once a year because I don't put enough miles on the cars anymore. I've been using this method since 96 or so and about a 1/2 million miles with ZERO engine related problems. I've had oil analysis done on the LS, the R and my two previous cars with awesome results. I finally got rid of my 97 Grand Prix with 202K on it and it didn't use/leak a drop of oil and ran as strong as the day I bought it. I won't use anything else in my cars.
revolutionaryconcepts
Active LVC Member
my engine failed due to particulate contamination from failed lower intake gaskets, sucked sand into a #2 & #7, had nothing to do with the oil, although im not sure if i'll be using 0 weight anymore
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
revolutionaryconcepts
Active LVC Member
I thought initially it was because of the oil grades I was using 0w-20 winter 0w-30 summer here in texas, I was always concerned with sheering due to how I drive my vehicle & the nature of these engines but after lincoln pulled it I bought the core & found the lower metal gaskets had failed, not sure how exactly, but there was very clear tracks across them into the intake port of the heads with corresponding gouges in the cylinder walls of those cylinders... the only thing I can deduce is that something must of warped or been re-installed incorrectly along the lines somewhere
Joeys Lincoln
Active LVC Member
So you can't do any harm by changing the Oil and Filter every 3000 miles right? I don't own an LS I'm just curious.
Former Member
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i use mobile 1 clean 5000 and fram filter.
Since i started racing i change it out literally every 1500 miles lol..i just get bored some days and im like WELL! guess ill change the oil! and its only been like a month and a half since the last one.
Since i started racing i change it out literally every 1500 miles lol..i just get bored some days and im like WELL! guess ill change the oil! and its only been like a month and a half since the last one.
gcwimmer
Dedicated LVC Member
You might want to re-think you choice of oil filters, do a web search on Fram, for about the same $$ you can get a better filter.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
I just change my oil when it starts to look bad. I check it every week or so, and when it starts to turn really dark it gets changed shortly after. Ive had my LS for right about 15k miles now. Have changed the oil twice. First time was when I got it I used Motorcraft 5-20 and motorcraft filter. Ran that for 5k miles and it still looked decent, but I went ahead and changed it anyway with Amsoil 0-20 full synthetic, and a Wix filter. Been running Amsoil for right about 9.5k miles now and it still looks petty much fine. Changed the filter at 5k, and am getting ready to order an oil analysis kit to see what kind of life this oil has left.
X2 Fram sucks.
Former Member
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id like to run a napa gold but napa is far away lol
skizot722
Well-Known LVC Member
You cannot tell just by looking at an oil whether the additives have broken down, and most of the time contaminants are not going to be able to be seen just by looking at the oil. I think running any oil over 7500 miles is just asking for trouble. Yes, the oil may still look fine, but the additives do break down over time.
But, I will agree on the Fram filter though. X3, they suck.
I've been using WalMarts brand of full synthetic and a combination of Motorcraft (for the first 50k miles), Fram, and Purolator filters with oil and filter changes every 10k miles. Currently have 103k miles (brought the car new with 8 miles on it back in Dec 2002) on it and it uses maybe..maybe..1/2 quart every 10k miles. Only issue I've ever had from the engine was the usual coil failure. Never had any other engine repair..(except alternator). Doesn't smoke, starts fine, idles smoothly.
Works for me.
Also did 10k oil and filter changes in my last LS (V6 purchased new, sold with 70k on it) and it ran fine from brand new purchase to sell. Did 10k oil and filter changes in my old BMW 318is (4 banger) from nrand new purchase to total loss at 120k miles.
10k oil and filter changes are working for me. Oh yeah..my brothers old 325i. He had 230k miles on it when he sold it earlier this year. For the last two years, he changed the oil and filter every 15k miles. Engine strong as new when he sold it.
Works for me.
Also did 10k oil and filter changes in my last LS (V6 purchased new, sold with 70k on it) and it ran fine from brand new purchase to sell. Did 10k oil and filter changes in my old BMW 318is (4 banger) from nrand new purchase to total loss at 120k miles.
10k oil and filter changes are working for me. Oh yeah..my brothers old 325i. He had 230k miles on it when he sold it earlier this year. For the last two years, he changed the oil and filter every 15k miles. Engine strong as new when he sold it.
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
The only sure way to know what your oil is doing is to send it out for testing. Visual inspection at home is almost meaningless.
Most detergent oils will turn dark as the detergent "encapsulates" the contaminants, so dark oil is a sign the oil is doing it's job. BUT, different engines from the same manufacturer will darken oil to very different degrees. That's just the way they are. Then there are some engines that are notorious for oil break down. I don't think the LS is one of them.
If you can feel a real difference, the oil is already past increasing wear.
The military is getting away from the old 3,000 mile oil change. They are now sending oil out for analysis and changing as indicated and usually at much longer intervals. Been a while since I read up on it but the AOAP(check the web) program had some interesting reading about this issue and why 3,000 mile changes are not necessary with the greatly improved engine oils we have now.
Back when I first started driving, oils rated SC and SD were the premiums and SA was not uncommon. Those old oils would evaporate over time and temperature and turn to sludge, so that is why you changed them every 3,000 or even sooner. Modern oils are rated for much greater endurance and don't require 3,000 mile changes.
The 3,000 mile change is overkill. Follow the manufacturer recommendation. BUT, READ the manual, you would be surprised what the engine makers consider severe duty... idling, short trips, stop and go, cold temps etc. Most of us drive under "severe" duty cycles.
But a 3,000 mile change will not hurt anything except maybe your wallet. Strangely there were a few tests a couple years back on the web where very short change durations like 1,000 miles seemed to increase wear a bit over the factory change interval. I don't recall that they ever came to a hard conclusion as to why really short intervals caused more wear indications during analysis, other than some guessing that oil "broke in" too.
Many new engines are rated for 10,000 or 15,000 mile changes. So with proper oils and machine work, you can go well past 3,000 miles in almost all cases.
Safe bet... follow the manufacturer recommendation, usually 5,000 to 7,500 miles under "normal" duty. 3,000 mile changes are almost certainly fine and maybe beneficial, but rarely needed. Don't push most oils over 10 - 15,000 miles with out testing.
Just my opinion,
Jim Henderson
Most detergent oils will turn dark as the detergent "encapsulates" the contaminants, so dark oil is a sign the oil is doing it's job. BUT, different engines from the same manufacturer will darken oil to very different degrees. That's just the way they are. Then there are some engines that are notorious for oil break down. I don't think the LS is one of them.
If you can feel a real difference, the oil is already past increasing wear.
The military is getting away from the old 3,000 mile oil change. They are now sending oil out for analysis and changing as indicated and usually at much longer intervals. Been a while since I read up on it but the AOAP(check the web) program had some interesting reading about this issue and why 3,000 mile changes are not necessary with the greatly improved engine oils we have now.
Back when I first started driving, oils rated SC and SD were the premiums and SA was not uncommon. Those old oils would evaporate over time and temperature and turn to sludge, so that is why you changed them every 3,000 or even sooner. Modern oils are rated for much greater endurance and don't require 3,000 mile changes.
The 3,000 mile change is overkill. Follow the manufacturer recommendation. BUT, READ the manual, you would be surprised what the engine makers consider severe duty... idling, short trips, stop and go, cold temps etc. Most of us drive under "severe" duty cycles.
But a 3,000 mile change will not hurt anything except maybe your wallet. Strangely there were a few tests a couple years back on the web where very short change durations like 1,000 miles seemed to increase wear a bit over the factory change interval. I don't recall that they ever came to a hard conclusion as to why really short intervals caused more wear indications during analysis, other than some guessing that oil "broke in" too.
Many new engines are rated for 10,000 or 15,000 mile changes. So with proper oils and machine work, you can go well past 3,000 miles in almost all cases.
Safe bet... follow the manufacturer recommendation, usually 5,000 to 7,500 miles under "normal" duty. 3,000 mile changes are almost certainly fine and maybe beneficial, but rarely needed. Don't push most oils over 10 - 15,000 miles with out testing.
Just my opinion,
Jim Henderson
actually, a 3k oil change (in theory) can cause more harm than good.
Why? An engine gets the most wear at startup. The absolute MOST wear occurs at first startup post oil change. Why? Because of the additional seconds it takes for the oil filter to fill with oil. I used to notice how long my oil pressure light stayed on upon the first start after an oil change.
so..fewer dry-post oil change starts..the less wear on the engine.
By the way..I now fill my oil filter with oil first, turn the filter on its side and rotate the oil all around the filter pleats and get it soaked, then install the filter. Helps reduce the time that oil pressure light is on on that first start
Why? An engine gets the most wear at startup. The absolute MOST wear occurs at first startup post oil change. Why? Because of the additional seconds it takes for the oil filter to fill with oil. I used to notice how long my oil pressure light stayed on upon the first start after an oil change.
so..fewer dry-post oil change starts..the less wear on the engine.
By the way..I now fill my oil filter with oil first, turn the filter on its side and rotate the oil all around the filter pleats and get it soaked, then install the filter. Helps reduce the time that oil pressure light is on on that first start