hub swapping

mossbergman said:
how much would it be to get another set rear knuckles and build them to the 4.5 bolt pattern and swap them on in a day? and what did you hubswapped people do for the front brakes?
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Come to Ohio and help yourself to the dead-bearing knuckles in my garage. (it would be more expensive to ship than to buy your own at a yard).


I just came back from autozone, dumping some oil, and asked them to run prices on the front hub/bearing assembly.... $70ea for Timken and $50ea for Duralast. That's some good prices.

I kinda thought there'd be a core on these... guess there's too much liability.
 
Science Abuse said:
Come to Ohio and help yourself to the dead-bearing knuckles in my garage. (it would be more expensive to ship than to buy your own at a yard).


I just came back from autozone, dumping some oil, and asked them to run prices on the front hub/bearing assembly.... $70ea for Timken and $50ea for Duralast. That's some good prices.

I kinda thought there'd be a core on these... guess there's too much liability.
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Only 70 for Timken front hub/bearing units!! Wow thats not bad.
 
Search the board.

I've posted part numbers, cheapest prices, and places to buy them back when swapped last summer.

D.a.m.n.
 
Lux said:
Search the board.
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You overestimate the search function. Searching for "hub swap" returns a boatload of unrelated stuff. No one will ever find your info using it.

Knowing your username, I searched for threads started by you which contain the same words... and found a single thread. One where you're asking opinions from everyone else on cost-effective hub swapping. In that thread no one told you to use the search function, or to go to google to do your own research. They helped you out.

Searched your name and Part Numbers and found exactly squat. So even having specific search input, you can't find squat with the search function.

Why are people so averse to helping noobs? Post the link to your info, just like DLF did for you here.
 
Science Abuse said:
Come to Ohio and help yourself to the dead-bearing knuckles in my garage. (it would be more expensive to ship than to buy your own at a yard).


I just came back from autozone, dumping some oil, and asked them to run prices on the front hub/bearing assembly.... $70ea for Timken and $50ea for Duralast. That's some good prices.

I kinda thought there'd be a core on these... guess there's too much liability.
Click to expand...

I might take you up on shipping some. the yards around here seem to think that mark parts are make of gold. shipping on a pumpkin was $26 from north carolina, if i remember correctly, if that matters at all
 
mossbergman said:
I might take you up on shipping some. the yards around here seem to think that mark parts are make of gold. shipping on a pumpkin was $26 from north carolina, if i remember correctly, if that matters at all
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That shipping price is a lot better than I thought it would be.

Maybe the yard prices are going up with scrap alumiunum prices?
 
Yahum, wasnt in a thread i started. After asking opinions i did all the leg work for best prices and parts and where to buy and have posted parts list multiple times since

If i wasn't on my cell phone id do the work again, but i am, so i wont.
 
chris2523 said:
ever looked at a front hub? the back side of the face is not flat. there is no good place to drill new holes.

edit, pic added.

a20791b13178f58950f97_m.jpg
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Sure, changed them several times but never noticed this. The mustang ones are so cheap I would not bother redrilling. Even if i could I would just buy replacements and sell the ones I pull of my car. I thought you ment a true design problem like a mechanical problem. I would not classify this as a design problem since they are not intented to be redrilled out. This design actually saves manufacturing cost since you do not have to machine the whole rear face.
 
i did the search for the hubs under several titles. anyways im still considering this : no mattrt how you get the hubs done. "elongating the holes" wont that causeabraking problem? you have the bolts coming through, attatched to the tire,when you step on the brakes , stopping the rotor, wont it move? unless yo are redrilling the whole new pattern in the rotors.
 
Considering the weight of the car and the importance of these components, I would strongly recommend just buying the proper parts for the full swap.
Slotting holes in the rotors should not effect their alignment, since they are hub centric. If the holes become oversized during the process, you'll have slop at their interface. Regardless of how its done, you are reducing the strngth of the rotor. This part is heavily taxed as-is, turning a hole into a slot does more damage than you might think.

At some point during the life of the car, you are going to have to change your brake calipers, it's just a fact of life. Doing the full swap now is not only safer, simpler, and better for performance, but it's more cost effective in the long run: Right now, you're talking about paying extra to use inferior hardware, and the rotor-machining cost is going to be recurring every time you need rotors.
 
Good grief...

Slotting the rotor holes .125" isn't going to hurt them, or compromise them in the least. Add into the fact the rotors are sandwiched between the wheel and hub, and just what would happen?

I redrilled mine, have well over 10K miles on since I did it, not one problem short of needing to replace one wheel since it isn't true...
 
SATURN5 said:
Good grief...

Slotting the rotor holes .125" isn't going to hurt them, or compromise them in the least....
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Yes, it is, but you're not going to find out how much until you really really need them. If that comes up, you (or your surviving relatives) are going to look back and wish you'd spent a bit extra on the proper parts.

Those rotors experience much more torque than your driveline does, because your car slows a lot faster than it accelerates.

But hey man, not like I have any experience or prior knowledge. I probably flip burgers for a living. ;)
 
I'm fairly certain that the studs would sheer off before the rotor fails from having 10 holes in it
But if you are correct then we better not buy 2 piece rotors.
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
i did the search for the hubs under several titles. anyways im still considering this : no mattrt how you get the hubs done. "elongating the holes" wont that causeabraking problem? you have the bolts coming through, attatched to the tire,when you step on the brakes , stopping the rotor, wont it move? unless yo are redrilling the whole new pattern in the rotors.
Click to expand...
Lets get this str8 for everyone. You never slot a HUB. All talk of slotting is done ONLY to the ROTOR holes. Slotting or redrilling holes in rotors is no biggie. The stock hole size in my mustang "brembo" rotors is .625 which is 1/8 bigger then 1/2 dia studs so there is alot of slop right there. You can redrill rear hubs where you add 5 new holes, but not front hubs. Once the rims are tight there is NO movement of the rotors.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Lets get this str8 for everyone. You never slot a HUB. All talk of slotting is done ONLY to the ROTOR holes. Slotting or redrilling holes in rotors is no biggie. The stock hole size in my mustang "brembo" rotors is .625 which is 1/8 bigger then 1/2 dia studs so there is alot of slop right there. You can redrill rear hubs where you add 5 new holes, but not front hubs.
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yeah. when you put all stock stuff together, you can move the rotor around anyway. and the hub floats, centered by the middle hole, not the studs.
like saturn 5, i put several thousand miles on slotted rotors. no problems, they are even on another car now. went into a big brake kit for my brother's taurus. he exercises them just as much as i did. no issues.
 
Science Abuse said:
Yes, it is, but you're not going to find out how much until you really really need them. If that comes up, you (or your surviving relatives) are going to look back and wish you'd spent a bit extra on the proper parts.

Those rotors experience much more torque than your driveline does, because your car slows a lot faster than it accelerates.

But hey man, not like I have any experience or prior knowledge. I probably flip burgers for a living. ;)
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No, it doesn't.

and I may just know a bit more about torque then you considering it is what I do, all the way up to 1500lbft performing ISO 17025 calibrations. I work regularly with engineers with GM, Chrysler, Behr, International, Deere, on thier assembly lines, either problem solving or building station fixturing.

All forces are rotational, and a slot or additional hole isn't going to weaken the rotor. You will shear the lugs long before the rotor gives if you could apply enough force via the caliper.

I have no idea what your background is. Mine, 30 years working in the automotive area. A degree in Automotive Technology followed up with a degree in Electrical Engineering along with countless hours building my own projects.

I design my own parts using Solidworks, and proceed to build them either in my home shop with my mill or lathe by hand, or at my workplace where I have everything from a plain ol Bridgeport to a Cincinnati Milicron VMC.

;)
 
slowmkviii said:
I'm fairly certain that the studs would sheer off before the rotor fails from having 10 holes in it
But if you are correct then we better not buy 2 piece rotors.
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Different metals.
Parts are specifically engineered to do exactly what they are intended to do, and nothing else. When you deviate from that, you no longer have any guarantees.
The difference in the strength between a slab of metal with a round hole and a slab of metal with a not-round hole is greater than you are assuming it is, and it is the entire slab of metal that is resisting the stress of braking. I'm not saying it won't work on your commute, I'm saying I wouldn't trust it when doing an emergency stop on the freeway, and certainly not doing a lapping day.

I work with engineers too... I am one. Mechanical, with a background in QC and destructive testing of many types of metal components, and 13/14 years in motorsport... makes me feel old now. I also machine my own parts when needed, though I've got to do it on the old stuff in our prototype shop, by hand, with calipers and patience. :headbang:
 
Man you're REALLY splitting hairs here..if its that big of an issue than buy yourself the cobra brakes and be done with it...I guess those of you who have slotted rotors are just gonna have to "live on the edge" and take your one in a billion chance at rotor failure then..

Don't forget though..you still have your front brakes if the rears fail :D
 
Slotting the rotors or redrilling them won't crack or shatter, ever...holes are drilled to stop cracks from spreading in many applications...plus how are you gonna shear lugs off if the factory holes ain't ever will?
 
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