Drag radials

I got a code for my imrc's being stuck closed I'm wondering if I should put my cobra intake on and delete the imrc'S
 
I also have codes for bank 1 running rich so I'm wondering if that's being caused by the imrc's being stuck closed
 
I got a code for my imrc's being stuck closed I'm wondering if I should put my cobra intake on and delete the imrc'S

Since you're boosted I would say no problem with deleting them. Just get it properly tuned for it. You'll get a good up close and personal look at them when you get the stock intake off. Mine never set a code but were nasty as hell, so more than likely yours are worse.
 
Back when I put the s/c on it 2 years ago i took it off and cleaned them up so I guess it would be a good idea
 
How is that 3000 stall with the Vortech? Is there any chance you would do better with a higher stall? Just noticed that on your sig. My buddy had a Vortech 2-valve Vic with full bolt-ons and it was downright nasty with a 3800 stall. He ran 13.54 NA I'll bet you could pick up a couple more tenths with an even looser converter. Not that that is what this thread is about, but I ramble every now and then LOL.
 
I think I will be getting the 255-50-16 ET Streets next just because I want to be able to run the car in street class and not comp rod.
 
You will want a higher stall if you delete them. I have a 3,800 stall with the plates and I want more stall. Well I got more, I have a new 4,200 to install. Yes M/T street radial work great also just not as good by just a little. I don't know about those Toyo's. I've heard good thing also about the new Nitto's though.
 
You will want a higher stall if you delete them. I have a 3,800 stall with the plates and I want more stall. Well I got more, I have a new 4,200 to install. Yes M/T street radial work great also just not as good by just a little. I don't know about those Toyo's. I've heard good thing also about the new Nitto's though.

Do you drive the car daily?
 
I drive it slot In the summer and like half of spring and fall and yes I do wish I had a higher stall tc mine feels good right now but I've never driven with a higher one so I don't know
 
I only got the 3000 stall cause that's wut scp recommended to me at the time my mark was my daily driver
 
My 3,800 is great even on the street. I can't praise it enough for being the best of both worlds. I plan to hang onto it in case I want to go back
 
I just ordered the MT street et's 26/10.50/16's which I hope is the equivalent to 255/50/16's cause these are going on my octastars, I also ordered the rear koni shocks which are backordered so I won't get them for a few weeks I ordered them from summit
 
I just ordered the MT street et's 26/10.50/16's which I hope is the equivalent to 255/50/16's cause these are going on my octastars, I also ordered the rear koni shocks which are backordered so I won't get them for a few weeks I ordered them from summit

Yup, the tire size is right, and the Konis from what I've heard are full of win. Mine are still in a pile of random suspension parts here but I got em. :cool:

On a side note, SCP is clueless. I run a 3800 stall daily driven in the non-wintery months without issue and I wouldn't go back to anything less. Remember, the centrifugal has boost lag and a high stall will diminish that greatly along with the fact that I am sure your torque curve has moved up quite a bit with the blower. Just a thought for the future. 3800+ ;) In terms of performance, a 3800 stall will make a noticeable difference in your et's at the track over the mild converter you have now.
 
How does a big stall feel/drive different? I've never been around or rode in a car with one
 
How does a big stall feel/drive different? I've never been around or rode in a car with one

Pay attention to the tachometer in this video especially when getting on the throttle. Like 2:30 seconds in for example. This video also shows pretty good how well behaved a high stall is contrary to what some will tell you:
2002 Camaro Z28 with a Yank PT4000 torque converter - YouTube

You're operating at a higher rpm even under light throttle due to the slippage of a high stall. Imagine the spring on your tachometer being wore out. :D

A high stall will keep the car in its powerband. At WOT, my car shifts into second gear and "falls back" to about 5000 rpms. Compare that to a stock Mark VIII that falls back to about 4000rpms and has almost 1000 rpms more to pick up before it is in the best part of the powerband.
 
You'll appreciate this. :p



Stock Converter:

StockConverter.jpg


High Stall Converter:

HighStall.jpg
 
What an awesome set of posts and drawings. That does clear things up quite a bit. Thanks kirk
 
I'm looking into getting a 3800-4000 stall from Edge Racing.

That would be kickass. :D I basically went with driller's recommendation of a 3600-3800 stall converter, and him being the NA king I figured I would listen. Especially for a track car, an aggressive stall is always a good choice with these cars especially. There has to be something in the equation to build better torque down low where the Mark8s lack a bit. In driller's case with the 5.3 swap and people like Don Pfau running blowers with meth injection, an even more aggressive stall would be beneficial. I think Driller is running a 4200 stall with his new setup and Don is considering upping his stall from the 3800 stall that he has now. For an NA Mark with bolt-ons, DEFINITELY a 3600+ stall is suitable and is my recommendation. That's one of the many reasons why I have got as far as I have with my setup. Every single ingredient is important.

Just for reference, my buddy had a Vic that ran 13.54 NA. Full bolt-ons, cammed, etc. After he was having some issues with the car, he was running a stock 11.25" for awhile. We went to the track and he was running low 14s with a car that typically ran 13.5s and 13.6s consistently with the 9.5" 3700 stall Edge converter.
 
That's the one part I never truly understood about torque converters. How does the engine's torque output effect the stall speed?
 

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