lincoln ls battery

iivan

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hello lvc :)
in my trunk i currently have a hifonics 1600rms amp with a kicker l7 12 in about a week ill be adding another sub
this is being powered by a kinetik hc1400

so the bottom line is
i want to run another battery parralle (kinetik hc800) my buddys selling it to me dirt cheap! i want to know if adding this battery will do more harm than good on a stock alternator

01 lincoln ls v6
0 gauge

and i want to add another amp for mids and highs
 
Interesting question for the LS. I have run isolators in past vehicles with high end power output with zero issues. I have never seen an LS running an extra battery for a stereo application.

In theory, with the Big 3 upgrade and proper venting of an additional oem battery, it "should" work. Note I said "should".

Just be sure to use a reputable installer and report back with how it works if you indeed do it.

Cannot stress enough....have a professional install if this is out of your skill level.
 
If you changed the system around you could get more sound with a better sub and more efficient amp.

Maxxsonics stuff isnt that great....those amps suck lots of power. But i would just do a big 3 upgrade first.
 
As far as a HO algernator goes....some one I needs to find out if the PCM controls the power output of the alternator and if there is any way to work around it. I have tried several HO alts with bad/same results everytime.
 
Ok, today is the day, took pics of the batteries. Dont mind the wiring, it is under the cover so I did not look to be show quality.

http://www.batcap.net/

BATTERIES.jpg
 
When I had a system that needed more power than the car could put out (on big bass hits) I used a capacitor and that solved my big issues.
 
A capacitor has nothing on a bat cap.

I don't believe in caps...they store a very small amount of energy and it needs to be charged. A second isolated battery is much better.
 
BTW, anyone know how you would check the batcap to make sure it is still good??? Typical battery tester or what??

Yeah but sometimes battery's won't show their bad until they are under load. Lots of places do free battery testing, though I've never done it so I don't know how good it is
 
I work in the service department of a dealership and we have the battery tester, but I am not sure if these test like a regular battery or what setting you may have to use???


Yeah but sometimes battery's won't show their bad until they are under load. Lots of places do free battery testing, though I've never done it so I don't know how good it is
 
I have no idea....general rule of thumb is what 3-5 years for a battery??
 
Agreed black, a conservative 3-5. Mine lasted about 6-7. My old system killed it though with a bad remote relay I think it was. Autozone tested it and said the battery was good and tried to sell me the ever popular Duralast brand alternator
 
I have found an alternator rebuild shop by talking to the boat shops. Most alternators are used in auto & boat applications. I had mine rebuilt to the marine application, which is a significant power boost, same case, different guts. They can tell you if yours can be upgraded or swapped for a marine alternator in the size you require. Cheaper than buying a new one. They even identified the replacement belt and installed. Just a thought!
 
I have found an alternator rebuild shop by talking to the boat shops. Most alternators are used in auto & boat applications. I had mine rebuilt to the marine application, which is a significant power boost, same case, different guts. They can tell you if yours can be upgraded or swapped for a marine alternator in the size you require. Cheaper than buying a new one. They even identified the replacement belt and installed. Just a thought!

So you had this done?

What kind of alt did they get you? specs?
 
sorry for the late response guys
ima do the install myslef its simple its like connecting a capacitor but with fuses to make shure as far as the big 3 goes im afraid to remove the factory ground from the battery and replace it with zero gauge ,(Is that okay?)
 
Interesting question for the LS. I have run isolators in past vehicles with high end power output with zero issues. I have never seen an LS running an extra battery for a stereo application.

In theory, with the Big 3 upgrade and proper venting of an additional oem battery, it "should" work. Note I said "should".

Just be sure to use a reputable installer and report back with how it works if you indeed do it.

Cannot stress enough....have a professional install if this is out of your skill level.
the big 3 is hard to do on the ls
i mean the alternator is wayy down there lol
and as far as venting the kinnetik batter is a deep cycle
 
If you changed the system around you could get more sound with a better sub and more efficient amp.

Maxxsonics stuff isnt that great....those amps suck lots of power. But i would just do a big 3 upgrade first.

ima get another sub :) but i just want the power to be there i wanna feed my ls the best juice it can get:)
 
When I had a system that needed more power than the car could put out (on big bass hits) I used a capacitor and that solved my big issues.

i had a cap instaled but it drained my battery thats why now i have a kinnetik:)
 
sorry for the late response guys
ima do the install myslef its simple its like connecting a capacitor but with fuses to make shure as far as the big 3 goes im afraid to remove the factory ground from the battery and replace it with zero gauge ,(Is that okay?)

You don't mess with the factory wires. You just add more wires for current to travel.
 
I put it in like 2-3 years ago and followed their directions which were pretty specific, they showed the wrong ways and the correct ways to install and connect. I went over it like 3 times to be sure, would have to pull their instructions again to tell 100 percent, can always make a mistake, but like I said I checked a few times before completing.



looks like your running the ground wrong if im correct
 

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