j mod

the1andonlygr81 said:
steves not doing j-mods anymore at all, anybody else, or should i go to tranny place and ask?
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I know where Hollywood is (my aunt lives near you), but I'm kind of far away near Gainesville. Since I'm guessing you would like someone to do this for you, I've done them before and maybe I can get down there to help you out!
 
95mark8newyork said:
i thought scp was garbage?
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I bought stuff from him 2 years ago. I've already accepted the fact that I would do things differently had I been given another chance (most reasons of cost). Any of the items that I have bought from him can't suffer from quality issues that are his fault because they were drop-shipped from other vendors so I have no opinion on "Bill's quality"
 
oh, only reason i said that was because when i said i was buying either the cobra R's or speedstars from him a lot of people said to stay away from SCP.
 
So Bill at SCP is taking the business world like the Bill at Microsoft?

Using other's products and marketing them successfully?

Bill = Bill

I get it!
 
NetKeym said:
So Bill at SCP is taking the business world like the Bill at Microsoft?

Using other's products and marketing them successfully?

Bill = Bill

I get it!
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something like that. thats why he locked up the copyright and sales rights market from kooks headers so he can charge double.although he is very personable he is just a middle man
 
NetKeym said:
I know where Hollywood is (my aunt lives near you), but I'm kind of far away near Gainesville. Since I'm guessing you would like someone to do this for you, I've done them before and maybe I can get down there to help you out!
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i am always looking 4 help, motor is being done now.those valvebody seperator kits are the same thing as j mod,just swap plates? seems simple.
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
i am always looking 4 help, motor is being done now.those valvebody seperator kits are the same thing as j mod,just swap plates? seems simple.
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Yes, if you buy a kit from Rob, just swap plates and send him back your old ones. Be careful not to drop any little pieces, there is a little filter in there and some small metal balls.

You should also change your accumulator springs in addition to swapping the plates - it's part of the j-mod, too. There are other things you can do while your in there, but just swapping the springs and plates will make you and your transmission happier! :D
 
My 9 year old son could do a j-mod. He set with me while I done one on a 98 and even put in about 10 bolts for me. I let him help me de-burr the holes I drilled. It's simple to do and cost $10 or less. The two gaskets needed are only about $3 each + shipping. 2 drill bits are needed and the plate can be drilled within 3 min and you're done, after removing the steel burr from the holes. Put the valve body back together and it's a done deal. Just don't lose the check balls and if the 1-2 accumulator hasn't been updated, do that too. No need for new springs if neither are broken.
 
NoLimit95 said:
My 9 year old son could do a j-mod. He set with me while I done one on a 98 and even put in about 10 bolts for me. I let him help me de-burr the holes I drilled. It's simple to do and cost $10 or less. The two gaskets needed are only about $3 each + shipping. 2 drill bits are needed and the plate can be drilled within 3 min and you're done, after removing the steel burr from the holes. Put the valve body back together and it's a done deal. Just don't lose the check balls and if the 1-2 accumulator hasn't been updated, do that too. No need for new springs if neither are broken.
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There you go the1andonlygr81! You can get your j-mod done for a Snicker's bar and a glass of Kool-Aid as long as it's after school! :D
 
NetKeym said:
There you go the1andonlygr81! You can get your j-mod done for a Snicker's bar and a glass of Kool-Aid as long as it's after school! :D
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love kook aid, have a big bag of snickers, coming? now with stock it should be worth noting i have a sniper programmerhave changed my shift firmness and raised points, it hits second hard enough to chirp second now with stock rear.i think it works by increasing pressure in tranny lines, but i eas told with j mod it moves more fluid and keeps cooler, with programmer it should really move into second.anybody have both? or jmod with chip?
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
love kook aid, have a big bag of snickers, coming? now with stock it should be worth noting i have a sniper programmerhave changed my shift firmness and raised points, it hits second hard enough to chirp second now with stock rear.i think it works by increasing pressure in tranny lines, but i eas told with j mod it moves more fluid and keeps cooler, with programmer it should really move into second.anybody have both? or jmod with chip?
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I have the JMOD with minimal line pressure in the tune. Watch those pressure increases or get opinions from a reputable tuner. You do not want to try to outflow the separator plate with high line pressure whether you have a JMODDed separator plate or stock separator plate or hard parts in the tranny will start to suffer. Your car will shift just nasty(the good type of nasty lol) regardless. Just my two cents and good luck! Have fun with it. :cool:
 
ok dumb question.with the valve body removed, and gaskets off, why even remove the check balls (i can easily take a pic to remember where they go), if your working above that surface just replacing plates? and the guy i talked to says i dont have to drill holes its done, yet their instructions say to?
http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html
it doesnt seem difficult, just contrary to what i was told. the one from bill (scp) is the same.
 
KStromberg said:
I have the JMOD with minimal line pressure in the tune. Watch those pressure increases or get opinions from a reputable tuner. You do not want to try to outflow the separator plate with high line pressure whether you have a JMODDed separator plate or stock separator plate or hard parts in the tranny will start to suffer. Your car will shift just nasty(the good type of nasty lol) regardless. Just my two cents and good luck! Have fun with it. :cool:
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thank you my friend. used to live out there had a friend in snowmass, went for a ski trip to see her in dec 97 ended staying till summer 99. lots of construction out there, especially if you can read prints and know what your doing, actually landed a job that paid for a 3 day a week pass used to ski down to lift at lunch(all the houses were on slopes) ride up and ski back.:)
by the way you were right about hp. i had wrong sheet an was going off total estimates.never found the one i had, talked to john at shop. he gave me the last run on comp i told him he made me look like an ass will have new one soon.
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
thank you my friend. used to live out there had a friend in snowmass, went for a ski trip to see her in dec 97 ended staying till summer 99. lots of construction out there, especially if you can read prints and know what your doing, actually landed a job that paid for a 3 day a week pass used to ski down to lift at lunch(all the houses were on slopes) ride up and ski back.:)
by the way you were right about hp. i had wrong sheet an was going off total estimates.never found the one i had, talked to john at shop. he gave me the last run on comp i told him he made me look like an ass will have new one soon.
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Bah, no harm no grudge. Maybe he was confusing your car with a bolt-on Cobra of that era! lol Seriously though, I heard you were getting cams and that should make 300 rwhp fairly easy with the right setup. You'll get there. $hit, these cars feel fast at 250rwhp! I hope everything goes well for you.
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
ok dumb question.with the valve body removed, and gaskets off, why even remove the check balls (i can easily take a pic to remember where they go), if your working above that surface just replacing plates? and the guy i talked to says i dont have to drill holes its done, yet their instructions say to?
http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html
it doesnt seem difficult, just contrary to what i was told. the one from bill (scp) is the same.
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You don't have to remove the check balls - AAMOF, you leave them alone (and even if you did drop them, it's pretty easy to tell where they go)! You should drill the holes bigger as in the pics. As our transmission improved through the years, the newer models (like 2002-) already have the bigger holes; maybe that's what the guy was thinking. No, it's not difficult. Believe what you're reading there in that link - Jerry W who wrote the "thesis" was one of the original engineers from Ford who designed the 4R70W.

As for the springs, take the one out completely for the 2-3 accumulator. The 1-2 accumulator springs, you can leave the lower one out (the one that pops out of the bore first when you take it apart), the makes the 1-2 shift hit very FIRM.
 
Mine shifts nasty under WOT with both springs in the 1-2. I am beginning to wonder if the spring is broken? :shifty:
 
KStromberg said:
Mine shifts nasty under WOT with both springs in the 1-2. I am beginning to wonder if the spring is broken? :shifty:
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It's funny you said that. This stock LSC that I just bought will break the tires loose on the manual 1-2's all the time and automatic 1-2's about 3/4 of the time. I was wondering if the spring was broken too because I know nobody has been in the valve body.
 
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