Bolting the trans back up

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warrioralumni08

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Well, I bolted the trans back up, and made sure everything was correct. I took the torque converter off and just put it on the flywheel and bolted it up from there. Then I put the trans on and it felt like it went in right, after a couple of tries. I can turn the crank pulley and it spins, but the tail shaft isn't spinning. Should that be a concern? I am thinking it won't engage until I hook everything back up , and it sends a message to the computer that it's shifting. Just a bit concerned. :(
 
warrioralumni08 said:
I can turn the crank pulley and it spins, but the tail shaft isn't spinning. Should that be a concern?
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pump is not spinning, no fluid pressure, no applied clutch packs or bands, no power transmitted to output shaft.
that's normal. effectively neutral.
 
usually the torque converter goes on the trans output shaft first. that way it is easier to ensure that the TC is properly seated on the 2 (or 3?) input shafts. then trans to motor and the 4 bolts that go through the flywheel.

but if your sure it seated properly, you will be fine.
 
Well, thanks! Gives me some relief. I just hope I don't have to take everything back out, once I put it in again. :shifty:
 
I sure hope it's seated fine! If it wasn't the teeth would have kept it from going in, right? I did try that at first, then got frustrated and just bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. I just hope everything works out ok.
 
yeah getting everything lined up sucks. i removed/installed my trans with the motor in the car and took several tries to get everything to line up.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
I sure hope it's seated fine! If it wasn't the teeth would have kept it from going in, right? I did try that at first, then got frustrated and just bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. I just hope everything works out ok.
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a couple people have put them in crooked. one guy on here recently. ruined his TC. :eek:
 
You should always install converter in the trans!!! Then trans to engine. If you don't have converter set in right BYE BYE trans!!! Kid across the street killed a brand new rebuilt C6 trans in minutes. Engine turned over by hand but the converter was not set in all the way to the last click. It drove for couple minutes then ate pump up.
 
Yes, you need to pull the transmission back out... You need to put the TC on the Input shaft of the converter and spin by hand until it completely bottoms out. You should feel it drop like 3 times as each part of the TC engages a different part of the trans... The pump and input shaft. Lining the TC up to the holes in the flexplate is one of those 'separates the men from the boys' kind of thing. It is probably the most frustrating part of installing a transmission. The most important thing is do not force anything, or you will break something. The TC should sit like 1 1/2" from the face of the bell housing. You need to get the trans lined up to the bellhousing first, then the TC studs into the flexplate holes. The way you put it together is wrong and you will damage the transmission in some way. It's not fun, and it is hard work, but it's not worth doing twice. Good luck.
 
Alright guys, thanks. Will do since it's still out of the car, would be really pissed if it was installed the way it was, and it messed up again and had to take it back out. So, not wanting to deal with that, I will go ahead and fix it correctly.
 
Easy way to tell if converter is seated right is after its all together you should be able to push the converter back 1/8 inch freely. Then pull forward when you are putting the 4 converter to flexplate nuts on.
 
I had to install shims between my converter and flex plate....but I have an aftermarket stall, About .189 worth of shims to be exact.
 
And in lies the problem. Peeps think since I have a 4R70w converter(aftermarket) it should just drop in 100%. They never check converter end play then problems.
 
Guys!! It's doing it again!! The motor is not turning by hand!! This is driving me crazy! Everything worked fine and dandy before it was put into the car!!! You can't move it forward or backwards. I am at a loss....
 
Get another set of fresh eyes on the car so they can see what was overlooked
If you can't do that rep check everything make sure its in neutral, transit is straight torque converter is in perfect and so on.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Guys!! It's doing it again!! The motor is not turning by hand!! This is driving me crazy! Everything worked fine and dandy before it was put into the car!!! You can't move it forward or backwards. I am at a loss....
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If you can turn engine by hand with no trans bolted on and you can spin the TC/fleplate by hand then it can only mean its still in pump bind. I freak out when this happens and have to get the 2 seperated as soon as its noticed, When in bind it pushs parts that where never made to be pushed on, just spin.
 
slowmkviii said:
Get another set of fresh eyes on the car so they can see what was overlooked
If you can't do that rep check everything make sure its in neutral, transit is straight torque converter is in perfect and so on.
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This is a very good idea. X2 If you add this info we could rule things out.
1) flexplate height was off block
2)set in distance from converter pads to bellhousing face.
Shoot just skip all that and list what the converter end play # came out to all bolted together.
 
Well, the problem will not be solved for now. My brother thinks that the converter wasn't in all the way. Believe that is the main problem, and that's what keeps it from turning after a while. The studs on the converter or the nuts aren't any good at all. So, I just ordered a new converter, and nuts, should be here Tuesday. Then once again, I shall tackle the problem! Seems like this is just never ending!
 
Definitetly sounds like converter to me as well. Also are you putting the tranny on all the way by hand or are drawing the tranny in the last 1/2 inch with the tranny bolts? You be able to get it all the way past the alignment pins by hand.
 
Was using the tran bolts to push it together, but going to stop that. Should be able to come together easily by itself.

Also, since this is a rebuilt motor. Should I just poor mobil 1 synthetic in it, and let it run? Or buy cheap non synthetic oil and let it run, or buy cheap synthetic oil and let it run, or buy break in oil? Either way it will be drained.
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Was using the tran bolts to push it together, but going to stop that. Should be able to come together easily by itself.

Also, since this is a rebuilt motor. Should I just poor mobil 1 synthetic in it, and let it run? Or buy cheap non synthetic oil and let it run, or buy cheap synthetic oil and let it run, or buy break in oil? Either way it will be drained.
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Don't use syn oil in new engines. Run Dino(crude) oil for breakin then change to syn. Syn is to slippery for bed in. First fire up is key for ring seat. Also read up on break in procedure.
 
Alright, I read up on the break in procedures. Just want to confirm some of this. Would it be alright to run Valvoline VR-1 10W-30? Since the correct oil weight is 5w-30 for the car. Says it is stocked at my local Oreilly's, stuff is pricey though. What if I buy regular 5-30W oil and just add zinc additive to it? Would be the cheaper route to. Well, I just read the additive I was looking at doesn't contain any Zinc...:shifty:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...1_705&keyword=oil+additive&pt=N0443&ppt=C1941
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Alright, I read up on the break in procedures. Just want to confirm some of this. Would it be alright to run Valvoline VR-1 10W-30? Since the correct oil weight is 5w-30 for the car. Says it is stocked at my local Oreilly's, stuff is pricey though. What if I buy regular 5-30W oil and just add zinc additive to it? Would be the cheaper route to. Well, I just read the additive I was looking at doesn't contain any Zinc...:shifty:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...1_705&keyword=oil+additive&pt=N0443&ppt=C1941
Click to expand...

My 2 cents on this. You can just break in engine on any good brand name crude oil. You also don't need high zinc. You have a "roller" cams motor. The zinc is for flat tappet cams either hyd or mechanical. Your cam followers roll on cam lobes not drag across them like flat tappets do. Also look into engine break in procedure while driving.
 
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