The Octane Project

[97 Octane]

Welcome to The Octane Project thread! My wife and I will be taking this opportunity to show you our build experience with our newly acquired Lincoln.
...........enjoy!

The comments you read here are our own views and does not necessarily reflect nor imply any views by for nor against LVC nor its officers or any forum users. Photos you see here is our own copyrighted property unless otherwise noted. We will provide credit of any images used, to our best ability, to its rightful owners next to the image. Working on vehicles and using power tools could be dangerous and Safety is our number one concern. We take all precaution to eliminate any potential hazards while working on our vehicles. We do not take resposibility for your actions. Please use common sense. Modify at your own risk. If you are unable to do your own work, please consult a professional.







The humble beginning: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=74777








Presenting ......OCTANE. This is our HRL - our Hot Rod Lincoln. We nickname our cars because when we talk about our cars, it is a passion. It tends to lend a life of its own. Contrary to those who think that "It's Just a Car". You've heard that one before.

Why the name? The name fits. We chose to name the car Octane as it pays homage to its designers and the forward thinking the Lincoln engine builders had in mind for this model. It represents Power. It's a V8, it is #8 in the Mark family, wears badge VIII and number 8 in Greek is oKTw' or OCTO. So if you were wondering ...there ya go!

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Here is one of the first pictures taken after we acquired her. She is non-operational at this stage.

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1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC with Moonroof Trim option
2 Door Personal Luxury Coupe

Paint Code : (WK) Opal Opalescent
Interior Trim: (DJ) Ebony

Born Date: May 21, 1997

Where: Ford Wixom Assembly Plant
Wixom, Oakland County, Michigan USA

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Shares a long Wixom plant production history with...

1958–2002 Lincoln Continental
1958–2005 Ford Thunderbird
1980–1983 Lincoln Mark VI
1981–2007 Lincoln Town Car
1984–1992 Lincoln Mark VII
1993–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII
2000–2006 Lincoln LS
2005–2006 Ford GT

Unfortunately, the plant closed on May 31, 2007 after 6,648,806 cars built.

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You are looking at Octane in her initial non-running condition when we acquired her.
After pressure washing the years of grime and a little TLC , I was able to identify the many dents and dings she inherited during her first 13 years on the road. Interior has been removed for extensive cleaning and repairs.

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Powertrain and suspension needs extensive work also. This will be an ongoing project and no timeline has been set for completion. We sincerely hope you enjoy visiting our thread from time to time as we are, providing you our experience , successes, pitfalls and all.

 

[kustomizingkid]

I'll be watching!

 

[slowmkviii]

I'm already getting excited
more pics more pics more pics

 

[97 Octane]

Over the winter months, I have not worked on the car much.
Been doing alot of mechanical and electrical diagnostics . Car came with
2 PATS keys so I am going to check the starting circuit. I replaced the
old battery with a new one. Turned the key - no start. Going to use a BK multimeter
to diagnose continuity from the battery to the key switch and
work my way to the starter. I might have to check the gas for bad gas
since the car sat idle for nearly 2 years. I don't have an extensive electrical diagram for the Mark VIII.
What I have now is just a generic all-in-one Lincoln Chilton guide I bought from O'reiley's Auto Parts.

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I ran 12 volts directly to the air compressor relay. I was thrilled for a fraction of a second there because the compressor came to life then it stopped suddenly. Was never able to get the compressor to start again. I might have to give up on the air ride for now because I don't want to deal with more frustration with all the work I have ahead of me.

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Well, at least i know the HID headlights and all the marker and interior lights work. But the rear neon brake light does not work. It might need a replacement ballast. Turn signals and hazards don't work either as well as the moonroof.

I had some parts ordered in anticipation of spring and better weather.





Octane

 

[MarkVIIIS]

It might have been easier to just buy a different car

 

[97 Octane]

Yeah it could have been easier. But it was the like-new tires and wheels on the car we were after originally.
It was during the negotiation process that the seller and I agreed on a price we were willing to spend just for the wheels and tires alone.
Conceptually - for the price, we bought our wheel and tires. Anything else that came with the wheels and tires was icing, running or not.




Some of the parts I ordered has arrived:


A VCLM - Variable Control Load Module (F7LF-14B239-AB)

SCIL module - Steering Column ILumination module (F8LB-13C788-AA)

These will be installed soon. The VCLM is located inside the passenger side forward fenderwell.
The SCIL module is located on the passenger side behind the glove compartment. These parts are fairly easy to install.


All fuses have been checked and tested. Only the radio fuse needed replacement. Based on the inspection performed, It appears the car has suffered a surge of high voltage, perhaps the alternators' internal voltage regulator has gone bad damaging the moonroof motor, the neon tail lamp, SCIL module, VCRM which might explain the sudden breakdown. We will see.

Hopefully I won't find anything else needing replacement.
Like I mentioned earlier, I had to replace the battery. Having sat for nearly 2 years, calcification occurs in the battery when it sits for a long time with little or no voltage, damaging its internal plates. Which would cause it to not hold anymore voltage.

I am going to an alternator shop in town to see if they can rebuild the alternator to spec. In the meantime, I will work on something else while I await for my rebuilt alternator.








Octane

 

[97 Octane]

Got the car running finally!!! <fist pumps>

With new battery and air filter in place, Borrowed the alternator from Magnatude. Checked all fluids. Engine starts on the third turn of the key. Let idle for 15 minutes anticipating something to go wrong. Nothing. Charging at 14.6 volts. Revved the engine and all sorts of rats nest and junk came shooting out of the tailpipe. Had the loudest squeal ever heard on a car. Put some belt dressing on the belts but that didn't help with the noise. Will be replacing that with a gatorbelt soon. Looks like I will be going to FLM parts dept tomorrow to buy new Motorcraft pulleys. Getting new plugs this week for the next stage - tune-up.

She doesn't seem to be leaking any fluids. Faint white smoke billows out of the tail pipe when revved then goes away until its revved again. Drove her up and down the driveway. Seems to be no issues with the transmission. No noticable noise.

Brakes were grinding like the sound of a grindstone. Frontend sqweaks maybe due to worn ball joints.

Overall it has been a Very productive day! I am extremely happy I got her to run.



Octane

 

[97 Octane]

Took out the original air springs front and back because of their bad condition. The air compressor is bad too . I will have to get my neighbor from up the road, Eddie from Del Rio, TN to recondition them for me later.

I bought a used set of Monroe Sensatrac coil springs for the front. These are going to be modified to sit lower than the factory ride height. I also bought 2pairs of used oem air springs that will be trimmed and modified to sit lower than the factory setting.

In this segment, you will see some of the steps I have taken to do the modification.




Things I needed....

A pair of scissors
A 'C' Clamp
A Ruler
An old Gift Card
A Scratch Awl
An Oiler
A Sheeth of thick Plastic
Spray Can of Light Gray Primer
Spray Can of Black Satin Paint
A Neodemium Magnet
A Workbench Clip
Several Drill Bits - largest bit = 9/16th inch
A Drill Press






Pilot Bit all the way up to the 9/16" Drill Bit

Magnet and Plastic Sheath. This is a neat time-saver idea to keep metal shavings under control. Using the clip, Place magnet near the drill bit to collect the metal shavings. Just peel the plastic off the magnet to dispose of shavings.

Old Gift Card and a Scratch Awl used as the Hole Centering Template. Cut the template to fit snuggly within the hole and the lower strut mount cavity.

Paint surface with primer to easily see the new hole marks you will make. Create a notch on the gift card to partially go in the hole used as the guide. Using the scratch awl, Mark the card at 15mm from the center of the hole to the center of the new hole to be drilled.

Notch the opposite side of the card to fit within the strut mount U-shaped cavity. Mark the center location for the new hole using the original hole as your guide.

One of the more crucial steps to be done. Clamp the Coil Spring (or Air Spring) assembly to the drill press surface making sure the drill bit is perpendicluar to the work. Prepare to center the drill bit over your center mark.

Oil the drill bit and the metal surface.

Stop often during your initial drilling making sure the pilot hole remains centered. Magnet keeping work surface free of debris. Allows full view of your center mark.

Drilling progressively to a larger hole.

Metal shavings ready to be discarded. Be cautious when handling the sharp metal shavings.

9/16" hole being drilled.

Test fitting the hole with the bolt.

Test fitting verified.

Final product after being sprayed with Satin Black.

Looks Like-New.

Ready for installation.

Installed view. Here is what the 2.0mm clearance with the Lower Control Arm looks like. Double check your measurements and calculations before drilling the hole because different strut manufacturers may have slightly different specifications regarding the bolt hole center distance in reference to the bottom strut cup.

Back lit view of the 2.0mm clearance.

This modification can be performed on an Air Spring as well as a Coil Spring. This modification took approximately 4 leisurely hours to complete and that's including paint drying time. This is a great way to modify your Air Spring if you are looking to keep and maintain the factory ride quality as you lower the front of your vehicle.

On an Air Spring, additional lowered height can now be achieved along with using the sensor adjustment method. This combination provides minimized rolling oscillation while it maintains near factory ride quality or in other words, without that bouncy ride quality with just sensor lowering alone. Keep in mind that as the system lets more air out of the air bag, the less control it has over oscillation.







Octane

 

[fastmark1993]

you come work on my car next?

 

[Lownslowlsc]

That new hole on the bottom of the strut is interesting. Overall i'll be watching the progress..I like these threads especually when the cars are in this bad of shape. Most people don't waste there time. I have a feeling it'll turn out just fine from what i've seen thus far.

 

[97 Octane]

Came in yesterday from FedEx. Ordered replacement rear leather seat and backrest. This one came from a '97 Mark VIII with Ebony interior. Same model year and interior color code - (DJ). It should be a direct color match with the rest of my interior.

It will be replacing my old, ripped, worn out, "sharp claw" K-9 damaged rear leather seats.

 

[97 Octane]

Whoa! What's this? Another package delivery from FedEx?

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

Hmmm...is it just me, or does that bumper cover look modified from stock?

 

[lsc8]

A temple performance bumper maybe?

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

No, I think it's a cobra bumper. The center opening doesn't look like it goes down far enough compared to the headlight openings

 

[NoLimit95]

I'm lovin this thread. It's like daily, something is coming in for this car and things are happening. I know it was looked at in the beginning as just another white Gen 2 with Octi's and dents and dings but I believe a lot of things are about to change on this car and fast.

I can't tell what that front bumper is from. Might be a Temple or a Cobra or something he had made himself with his own design?? I guess we'll see soon.

 

[98lincmk7lsc]

Temple's aren't finished yet...

 

[95MkViii]

looks like it goes to a mustang.

i demand photos!!! LOL this is like months of work, crammed into a couple days!

 

[97 Octane]

Going to focus on getting my Mark roadworthy. I have several projects going on at the same time. I will post pics as I get a chance.

In this segment, I will show you what is being done for the exhaust. I decided to upgrade the exhaust system one section at a time in a modular fashion beginning with the mufflers and tips. The rest of the system will be ugraded later and ultimately ending up with a full 2 1/2" diameter pipe setup from the exhaust manifold.

The look of the exhaust tips from the back of the car, to me, looks anemic (pic 1 & 2). Probably because the tips have been dragged and crushed against the ground by whomever towed it when it originally brokedown. Note the tips drooping and off center. I tried my best to remove the pancaked look and tried to open it up a bit making it look rounder (pic 3) but it just wasn't working for me. I guess it's the rim of the tip just looks too thin and narrow.

I ordered a pair of Magnaflow 11376 straight thru, 2-1/2" inlet and outlet pipe diameter, mufflers and a (larger than factory) pair of angled 7" x 3" oval chrome tips with thicker rims. I also ordered two U-shaped 2-1/2" aluminized mandrel bent exhaust pipes from Summit Racing. I am partial the single tips because double tips look too El Dorado-ish to me.

Other accessories I needed were pair of exhaust hangers, 48" x 1/4" metal rod and two 2-1/2" to 2" exhaust pipe reducers.




Had everything mocked-up, cut and welded together. Prepped and cleaned, I painted the whole thing with VHT gloss black engine spray paint except for the chrome tips and at the end of the pipe.

The metal rod acts as a center alignment bridge between both sides of the mufflers. This helps maintain pipe alignment during installation and that both tips are centered in its proper location once viewed from the back of the car.

The majority of the Magnaflow muffler body will be tucked inside the muffler well to minimize the bulk appearance as its viewed from the side. The black paint helps camoflage it so attention is drawn to the chrome tips.

The tips are angled slightly upwards on its side so it follows the lower body contour of the rear bumper. This is a great way to remove some weight off the car. The whole setup weighs in at just 21 lbs.

 

[95MkViii]

liking the tips off that exhaust!

 

[philly0420]

Coming along quite nice. Where did you get the back seat from?

 

[97 Octane]

Thanks for all the positive comments. Philly0420 - The seats came from a guy who was parting out his '97 in Brandenton FL.

 

[Right on the Mark]

OMG!!! You drilled a suspention part! The planet is surely going to fall apart now. LOL Hope you can tell i'm jokin, car show guy.

 

[Raped Ape]

Are you going to show us the front bumper that came in under wraps?

 

[Hankyman240]

Are you going to show us the front bumper that came in under wraps?

+1... very curious.