CE needs help

lomax07

lomax07

Active LVC Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
135
Reaction score
0
Location
BALTIMORE
Alternator????
Battery a few months odd. Heres my situation today I start the car after a jump its running a lil rough (need to change 2 coils). Next I put it in drive and all power shuts down.

Does the transmission pull alot of power when shifting from park to drive?
I also have a leak from the transmission but I have another one from my 98 Toreador Red one that was running strong that im gonna swap. Anybody have the transmission pull and install thread bookmarked.

Im going to go ahead and change the alternator then tune it up (spark plugs, belt, etc.)
 
Dropping Trans

whats the easiest way to unhook the exhaust in the rear. Im trying to drop the trans but I need to move the exhaust out the way.
How to remove the wiper plastic pieces so I can reach the top of the trans 2 bolts.
 
Judging by your questions I would highly recommend for you NOT to do the work. If you cant figure out how to remove an exhaust hanger and then think just pushing the exhaust over will allow you to drop the trans then you have no business doing it. I know that sounds harsh but really I am trying to save you a bunch of money and headache.

Do you think even if you dropped the full exhaust (a must), the fuel tank (can move the pumpkin but tank is easier IMHO) and drive shaft then somehow got the trans down, that you would be able to stab the trans back in there without crushing the pump.... or yourself?
 
Don't take me wrong but if you need help with removing the exhaust and wiper cowl, you might not want to mess with the transmission swap. You will need another hand, car up high, trans jack helps a lot.

Exhaust comes down, fuel tank comes down, DS gets pulled, trans mount gets removed, TC bolts are removed, jack put in place and start removing bolts, starter and the two top bolts are the fun ones. Drop trans down some, disconnect the harness (with battery disconnected already) and bring it on down. Should be a direct swap, plug and play. Replace just like you took it out and make sure the TC is seated all the way back. Raise trans up, plug harness in, get a few bolts in and then get all 4 TC bolts back in good and tight. Finish off the rest of the trans bolts, along with the starter too.

Put the mount back in place, put the DS back in and make sure it is bolted back to the rear end just like it came down. Get the fuel tank back in and reconnect all the hoses that had to be disconnected to remove it and 4 bolts back in for the two straps and then hang your exhaust back up. Alone, it's not nothing easy but it can be done. The rear of the exhaust is on hangers. Just pull it down off the hangers.
 
LaserSVT said:
Judging by your questions I would highly recommend for you NOT to do the work. If you cant figure out how to remove an exhaust hanger and then think just pushing the exhaust over will allow you to drop the trans then you have no business doing it. I know that sounds harsh but really I am trying to save you a bunch of money and headache.

Do you think even if you dropped the full exhaust (a must), the fuel tank (can move the pumpkin but tank is easier IMHO) and drive shaft then somehow got the trans down, that you would be able to stab the trans back in there without crushing the pump.... or yourself?
Click to expand...

Again, listen to these words. Just let someone else do it.
 
well i would first fix things that actually matter, like making the motor run, worry about the trans after you get the heart of the car running
 
I have done this before with my 98 Red Toreador last november I kind of forgot from then. This is my second time at this.

I got all the trans bolts off except the 2 at the top, drained the trans pan, took off exhaust, took a food break then next im gonna tank down the gas tank, and see about loosening the driveshaft.

I got my jack stand under the trans to hold the weight and my homeboy as my helper with 911 on speed dial just in case.

I dont have a camera though. Im getting it done. Now how do I get that top plastic piece off at the top so I can reach the 2 bolts for the transmission.
 
danny_holtermann said:
well i would first fix things that actually matter, like making the motor run, worry about the trans after you get the heart of the car running
Click to expand...

I got a new motor in already I forgot to update and this morning I put in 8 autolites 764,changed the belt (gatorback), changed the boots on all the coils, and put in a k&n air filter.
 
You can use about 4 ft. of extensions with swivels for the top two bolts with the motor tilted back just a little bit or jack up on the trans and tilt the motor to the front and get to them the way you're wanting to. When I done mine, I used extensions with the motor tilted back until the TB was touching the firewall. Everyone does it in different ways.
 
danny_holtermann said:
so when you had the motor out why didn't you change the trans?
Click to expand...

I had a shop do the motor work I didnt know the trans was bad. When I got da car I had it shipped to me. I figured I'd take the good with the bad a CE cordovan for $800. I really didnt care if the trans was bad cause I kept the trans from my other 98.
 
More help is needed I got everything back together. I put a few bottles of fluid in an now its dripping fluid pretty fast. Its not coming from the front seal, the o-ring on the dip stick, the trans pan or in the rear on the seal where the driveshaft goes in.
It looks like it may be coming from driver side area right around where the 02 sensor is and right above where the 2 connectors are one is gray and the other is black.
could a sensor be leaking that fast?
 
I didn't clear it up but I'm referring to the transmission. The engine seems to be running strong I pulled a code for something about an open intake??? Or something.... I'm at work right now but I'll let you know the code.
As I was pouring fluid in it seemed to be not going in. I took a look and saw trans fluid running down the outside of the dipstick from the top of dipstick.. Remind you I put in some Lucas to and it was damn near freezing temps outside.
Does it matter which lines coming out the trans go at the top or the bottom on the transmission?
 
LaserSVT said:
IMRC stuck open.
Click to expand...

Yup that's it! What problem should I experience from that. I searched something about spraying it with some brake cleaner. What can I do to resolve that issue besides using the search. Or should I do a IMRC delete.
 
Should take off the intake plenum and then clean the IMRCs. Not hard, just time consuming and you will need to replace the gaskets.
 
I think I've found my leak it appears to be leaking from this black connector piece towards the driveshaft on the drivers side. Its about 8-10 inches away from the o2 sensor, directly over top of the black and grey connectors. What is this connector. You plug in one side and connected to it, it has some vent looking piece. I got my other tranny sitting beside the car im gonna sway em out and see if this helps after I pour more fluid in to verify it.
 
lomax07 said:
I think I've found my leak it appears to be leaking from this black connector piece towards the driveshaft on the drivers side. Its about 8-10 inches away from the o2 sensor, directly over top of the black and grey connectors. What is this connector. You plug in one side and connected to it, it has some vent looking piece. I got my other tranny sitting beside the car im gonna sway em out and see if this helps after I pour more fluid in to verify it.
Click to expand...

Nevermind its leaking from up higher. Only other thing I see up there is this little cap. This :q:q:q:q got me pissed its too damn cold for this shaaaat.:eek:
 
right right lemme go back out im gonna go out and start shifting through the gears. I figure the only time it would come out the top is if its full but I know its not. I'll be back n a few. I'm gonna figure this thing out.
 
im back it didnt drive in any gears........ I took the emerg. brake off as well. I even got the dancing lights show followed by a "check charging system" a few times before just turning off as i shifted from "D" to "D1".......... my night is over..........now what.......

This transmission is out of my 98 Toreador Red 120k. I followed all the procedures listed except put one of the top bolts in the bell housing. I seated the TC put the four screws in after screwing the other bolts in the bell housing. When I took the driveshaft out I marked it with a yellow wet/dry crayon. I changed the o-ring on the dipstick 3 times before finding the right one. I fought like the men in the movie 300 to get the trans installed with about 3 small jacks, 1 big jack, a block, and 2 jack stands.

I did hear some bubbly sound in the front passenger side where the air box is......maybe cause i loosened everything but didnt take off the air silencer...idk
 
How did you "seat" the TC?

Should push it into the trans while spinning it, should hear it click in 3 times

it's very easy for it to fall out of the pump seat if you were under there man-handling it
the first time I stabbed mine the TC fell off the pump seat, that's why you give the crank a roll before you bolt everything up, to double check
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 280 (members: 0, guests: 280)
Back
Top