CE needs help

I twisted,wiggled, and spinned it in there I also heard it click. I dont remember if i heard it click 3 times but i did hear it click.
If push comes to shove I'm guessing I have to redo it all or is there another way around dropping the whole trans.
 
If TC isn't seated properly, you'll drop the whole trans to correct it

instead of using 18 jacks and 6 monkeys, use 1 good Jack with a 2x4 on the arm, one long enough to cover the trans pan sideways, then you can lift by the pan without crushing it

the Jack stands we use at bills allows height enough to get the trans under the car while on top of my Jack
 
lomax07 said:
im back it didnt drive in any gears........ I took the emerg. brake off as well. I even got the dancing lights show followed by a "check charging system" a few times before just turning off as i shifted from "D" to "D1".......... my night is over..........now what.......

This transmission is out of my 98 Toreador Red 120k. I followed all the procedures listed except put one of the top bolts in the bell housing. I seated the TC put the four screws in after screwing the other bolts in the bell housing. When I took the driveshaft out I marked it with a yellow wet/dry crayon. I changed the o-ring on the dipstick 3 times before finding the right one. I fought like the men in the movie 300 to get the trans installed with about 3 small jacks, 1 big jack, a block, and 2 jack stands.

I did hear some bubbly sound in the front passenger side where the air box is......maybe cause i loosened everything but didnt take off the air silencer...idk
Click to expand...

I think this guy is joking...if he isn't he has dethroned Sapphire.
 
O ok I im gonna wait til the weekend to get back to this. The weather is not as cold as it's been but this weekend its gonna be around the 50's here in Maryland. I think im just gonna get a transmission jack to make this easier and take my time so I can do this right. Thanks
 
And FYI, if your talking about the exhaust hanger with the rubber, use some wd40 or better yet, pb blaster, and shoot some in there where the exhaust stud is, a small prybar and a quick flick of the wrist should get it right out
 
Sapperfire said:
And FYI, if your talking about the exhaust hanger with the rubber, use some wd40 or better yet, pb blaster, and shoot some in there where the exhaust stud is, a small prybar and a quick flick of the wrist should get it right out
Click to expand...

I found it easier to just unbolt the exhaust hanger. It took about 5mins. at the most.
I lucked up with a rust free underbody. Unbolting everthing was pretty easy just the fact I havent done this alot made it a little difficult. Even the tray in the rear is in great shape. When the time comes im gonna get it powdercoated though.

Damn........... I can't wait to drive this car!!!!
 
Im back with some different issues with the transmission..... I changed the front pump cleaned out the trans, looked over all the internal parts all the way down to the planetary gears. I used brake cleaner to clean all parts internally. During the reinstall I lubed them all up with mercon v and installed the trans.

I put about 5 quarts in turned the car on and shifted through all the gears for about 8-10 seconds each a few times. Next I shut the car off and filled more. About 12 total. Before attempting to drive I shifted through all the gears a few more times and then took it for a drive. It drove pretty good in the city minus the leak I have around the pan.

My problem is when it gets to around 35-40 mph (3rd gear) it seems to neutral out. I searched and read about a direct clutch band. I can slow down a little and shift to 2 manually.

could it be something faulty? Im pretty sure I connected everything. Could the 3-4 accumulator be the issue?

need some guidedance to the right thread
 
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