Head mods

cammerfe

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Hey, Quik---

If I remember correctly, some time back you indicated that you had some info on porting LS heads, but had to dig it out. Did you ever discover where you'd stashed it? Such input would not only be fascinating, it'd be an extremely worthwhile input for all the rest of us!
KS
 
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the heads on my v6 were ported, everything was gasket matched and the valve areas were cleaned up real nice as well. didnt really improve anything honestly. didnt bother putting them on this motor, i had posted pics of all of it on here. it was like 4 years ago i guess
 
Concerning the AJ-V8 we're talking about a Jaguar engineered/designed engine. I would imagine the V8 heads are pretty close to the limit already.
The v6 well that's another story :rolleyes:
 
Concerning the AJ-V8 we're talking about a Jaguar engineered/designed engine. I would imagine the V8 heads are pretty close to the limit already.
The v6 well that's another story :rolleyes:

The 3L duratech V6 is a great engine!
I love our Escape. 8K rpm tach, and no redline. There is however, something inthe owners manual that says it shouldnt go past 6500...:)
 
The 3L duratech V6 is a great engine!
I love our Escape. 8K rpm tach, and no redline. There is however, something inthe owners manual that says it shouldnt go past 6500...:)

hehe i wasn't knocking the v6 or anything. i just don't know anything about the head design and flow:)
 
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I'll wait for Quik to give us particulars. This is a very old topic, but my admittedly faulty memory says that his exploration found something like 25 HP and equal torque. And as answer to the comment above the LS V8 engine (and the T-bird) it's one of the AJ family. It responds to 'hot-rodding' just like any internal combustion engine does!
KS
 
well i have a spare set of v8 heads that i don't need anymore if anybody wants to try it.
 
Even if it is not a lot, isn't some better than none? A little here and a little there will add up.
 
well tearing these heads down and putting them back together is a risky thing to do. there is no room for error when shimming the cams etc. not to mention for those of us that dont know how to get the dual overhead motor back in time. most shops want like 20 hours labor just to put heads on. horse power per dollar isnt worth a few here and there really. its muuuch cheaper for any shop to get u a motor and put it in the car than it is for a shop to just swap the heads alone.

cost benefit analysis= not worth it
unless your reeeeally good at tearing one of these down and putting it back together the right way

at least not on the v6

but i would love to be proven wrong
 
Bump, was searching and saw something about a 22RWHP gain by Quik from cleaning up the heads. I would like more info as well.
 
Is it possible to match just the intake?
Or could you stuff something down into the head to keep from getting metal shavings into the engine?
Just trying to find some cheap alternatives.. :)

EDIT:
And I believe that you could reuse your stock shims.. If not, you could possibly get ones of the same thickness.
Then pay a shop to time it.. Should take less than 2 hours..
 
sorry - missed this. I 'should' be in the garage tonight and the heads are on the floor - so I'll take some pics and post up what I remember.

and no.... the heads have to come off for porting - don't even think about trying it while on the car....

pulling heads is not easy - not technically hard but very tight spaces and once you've done it you will not like doing it again. But pulling the exhuast manifolds, doing the valve covers, fixing a timing chain - are all good pre-cursors to the pain.... ;)
 
Ken - here are a couple shots of the heads (from afar to show the water jacket holes)

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


4.jpg


5.jpg
 
now - the area of concern.....

the intake ports are like sleeved - from the intake to the valve - having the wall completely in the water jacket.

this pic attempts to show how you can see the edges of the intake sleeve through the holes on the water jacket

DSCF5916.jpg


DSCF5909.jpg


DSCF5912.jpg
 
so - you have to be very very careful when porting the bottom or sides of the intake port since you are cutting into the sleeve - and too far means going right through into the water jacket. I personnaly know two guys who went too far, one blew through it while porting, the other lasted about a month then drank all the coolant.

the sleeve wall looks to be the same thickness all the way around the port and for the length of the port - so no obivious weaker areas. So be very careful on the edge where down the port throat and it widens out right in the valve area. It's tempting to open that up more (thinking it will flow more) but the corner it where most people go too far.

7 - copy.jpg
 
if you are using the stock intake manifold - there is a bit of room to open up the mouth of the port - the o-ring that seals it is a little back off the edge so you may get a little there.
 

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