WooHoo New parts, Its almost time!!!!

Can you not read, I AM PARTING THIS CAR OUT AND PUTTING THE DRIVE TRAIN IN MY 1968 MUSTANG AFTER THE BODY WORK IS DONE THE END OF THIS SUMMER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I DONT GIVE A FU*CK IF BOTH FU*KING TIRES GET RIPPED OFF OF THE CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU DONT LIKE WHAT I BOUGHT GO FU*CK OFF AND BUY ME THE ONES YOU FIND USEABLE!!!!!!! Thanks have a nice day!!!!
 
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And the irony being that if you parting it out and dont care, why are you putting new parts on it anyway?
 
What are you talking about, you bought the same sh*it as me!!!

Yes I did and I am not against you here so like I said, lighten the frack up. :lol:
We still friends. I am installing mine and keeping my car so I may be worse off then you. Who knows. I will install them and eaither in a year I will swap them again and get "I told ya so's" or in a few years someone will ask how they held up and I will get to say "I told ya so" :lol:

Its all good, everyone has opinions. I have been happy with my parts (when they finnaly show up) that I ordered from SCP and his customer service to fix a mistake has been ok so I am not worried about it.

Its not that bad of a job. I just pulled them off the 97 to see how long it would take. I positioned the wrench as if the engine was still there and removed the bolts for the UCA, came out very easy. Right tool for the right job. The only thing I dred is getting the UCA ball joint off the spindle. I hear its a PITA. :(
 
I just think its funny that nobody had a clue about where they were made from intill i posted it. I hate to tell you guys but theres a hell of alot of made in Taiwan parts on brand new cars and trucks....I also have a reman Alt from Autozone thats been on my car for 3+ years now AND im running Bosch 3 prong spark pulgs and none of the prongs have broken/fell off!!
 
Smack the hell outta it with a hammer while prying down on the control arm and the spindle nut backed off a few turns. Smack the spindle where the ball joint passes through.
 
The UCA off the spindle is easy - IF you remove the bolt all the way. I think some just loosen it and pry it open a little and expect it to drop. I sure did. Until I found out the bolt runs in a channel on the ball joint. But if you leave the bolt in you can still get it off, but then it IS a PITA. Otherwise with that bolt out it will drop right off.
 
I bought a ball joint pickle the other day at Harbor for $2 :D

After I got it I was kinda pissed. Last time I rented one from Autozone and it was too narrow. I even mentioned to the guy "I need a ball joint tool, NOT a tie rod tool" and I couldnt use the damn thing. Turns out he did give me a tie rod tool. :mad:

So again, the right tool for the right job makes all the difference. :lol:
 
LOL no worries man, im picking up another engine in March. I was thinking about some MSD wires since the ones on there now are starting to show there age, i might pull the plugs and replace them IF i do buy new wires.
 
I'm not trying to $#I+ on anyones thread but I've had those same parts in my Thunderbird couple years ago and they don't last long at all. Water gets in there so easily that it starts rusting the ball joint inside in no time. So yea, I learned the hard way and will never put that crap on my car again. But yea, if you're selling it (parting out) anyway, drive it like you don't give a $#I+.
 
Yet again im not selling it, i have to use it as my DD intill fall then its getting gutted and the drivetrain is going into my 68 coupe.......
 
Yea, I like to read ahead and skip to the end. :D

68 Stang with Mark guts, sounds like fun. Good luck with wiring that bad boy together. A Picture thread is in order for that project.
 
Damn, you've got it all figured out! I wise man plans for the road ahead. Now let's just hope you've got some good suspension parts lined up for the 68. ;)
 

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