Front end dips down during braking

93mkviii

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I have had this problem since I got the car but never really looked into it and now its starting to bug me. When braking my front end dips down alot to the point I feel its going to hit it's front end. I got new struts on the car an year ago which didn't change anything. The car then was lowered which made it firmer but no change in the front end dipping down during braking. I can't seem to find where to start from and I have tried to search but mostly it consisted of people having a floaty front end. Any tips? Thanks in advance.
 
Since you have a 93, when you turn your key on, you should hear a "double click" sound coming from the rear of the car. That sound you hear is for the rear shocks. The shocks were designed to stop the car from nose diving during braking. My guess would be that they have went bad or, the connection to them if you do not hear the clicking isn't connected. So, when you turn your key to the on position, do you hear a double click? It will make the sound once when you turn the key and then again when you start the car.

On top of each shock, there is a servo and they were connected to a module in the trunk, inside the plastic tray.
 
Excellent response NoLimit. Will be appreciated by all at some point I'm sure.:Beer

Wow it is appreciated by me! Ive always wondered what that clicking was on my 93. Now I want to get new shocks for my Mark... Since it has that is there some special shock I need or can I just go to my local parts store and get them?
 
Last I heard, rockauto.com has the OEM shocks that you need. I want to say they were around $90 each and I also heard that AZ had 93's only but never heard a price but don't buy them unless they have the connection or you don't have the right ones. Some people buy aftermarket and just don't plug them up and I guess it works but if I was going to do it, I would buy the OEM and be done with it. Then you know it's like it should be.

MOTORCRAFT Part # AS386G {#F3LY18125A}
2 required per vehicle; Rear $200 + shipping

If you decide to buy them, I have a code that you can enter into a box that will give you an additional 5% off but you might want to call Max and ask what he can get them for you for. 1-800-866-1520 ext. 236

How The Circuit Works


The Shock Damping Control System is activated with the Ignition Switch in RUN. The Shock Damping Module changes suspension tuning by energizing either the Hard Ride Relay or Soft Ride Relay. These relays control two shock actuators which change the damping rate to firm or soft by rotating a valve inside the shock absorber. They also provide a feedback signal to the control module indicating shock absorber mode.

The Shock Control Damping Module adjusts shock absorber damping, providing a soft (plush) ride during normal driving conditions. The suspension changes instantly to FIRM (by the control module) during hard braking, for improved handling.

Brake Line Pressure Switch
The Brake Line Pressure Switch monitors brake fluid pressure in the rear brake line. Above 750 PSI the switch closes which signals the ride control module to switch to hard ride.
 
I have the Monroe aftermarket T Bird shocks on my 93. Car feels fine under normal/heavy braking. The Connectors are disconnected, and still click.
10 year old front air struts also.
 
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I have some OE replacement shocks manufactured in 2006 from Strutmasters. PM me if your interested. They look exactly like the ones in there now.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm in class right now and don't have time to check it right now but where on the outside of the car should i hear the click( rear bag?) I do think my bags on the rear are fine at the moment but will check soon. By "on" meaning acc. or all the way to ignition?
 
pull the carpet down from the rear of the trunk, stick your head in there..and have someone turn the key on.

Then while you have your head in there, look for electrical connections on top of the rear shocks.. someone before you may have already taken them off and would explain why your car nosedives..and you dont hear the double clicks.

(this SHOULDN'T result in any personal injury or property damage if performed correctly).. but I've been wrong and burned people before.
 
Well, I heard clicks from some part of the car but isn't that just the airbag's shutting off? Anyway I've had the carpet off the interior of the trunk and all I saw was the bolt for the shock absorber(no wires around it), what does the wire plug look like or where in the trunk? Can you access it from the underneath of the car?
 
So went into the trunk about 10mins ago and just happen to find this part not connected. Is this what I was looking for? If yes where does it connect, if not what is it?
Sorry for the bad quality pictures.

IMG00170.jpg


IMG00171.jpg
 
That is it, should be one on the other side as well for the shock there to.
Someone replaced your shocks with conventional one...
 
Here are the pictures from the other side(Seems its attached to something because it is traveling down into the opening). So by shock meaning shock absorber right? Now so if it has been changed to a "conventional" one(How can you tell?) are those deemed useless? Or do they still attach to something?
EDIT: So the only way to fix this problem is to get the OEM shock absorbers?

100_7140.gif


100_7141.gif
 
The part circled is the top of the shock, the actuator would connect to the top of the shock usually. The proper one sticks up real high in the center. It controls a velocity sensitive variable orifice within the shock (controls how quick the fluid goes around the dampening piston in the shock.) If you search around, someone posted a pic of it recently iirc...
With a conventional shock, yes those are useless as there is nothing to attacht them to, and you won't get the benefit of the hard brake relay (antidive whatever...)
 
So getting the OEM shock absorbers should fix my problem. Anybody have a fix for this so it doesn't dip down without getting new OEM shocks? Could the rear sway bar brushing also be a problem if weared out? And thanks for all the help.
 
yes,93 few 94,

supposedly Ford later changed the rear shocks over to a more heavily dampened rebound that was meant to accomplish the same thing as this electronic system.

i am not sure which is better,but i have a hard time believing Ford sent money for the 93 on a system that could have been done with reg style shocks,i figure after the car launched they decided it was time to save some money ,and simply removed the system,just like they changed the one piece drive shaft,and used less chassis strengthening adhesive pads,and god nows what else they took away. they probably saved themselves a whole $70/car after 93/early94.
 
I don't know if it would fix your problem, but I have my doubts... Who did you get the struts from?
Anyone know the brakes bias of our cars f/r?

I don't if Ford did it to cut costs, as the two piece shaft would cost more to make than a one piece for instance.
 
Think I will not cut my shock connector wires, incase the Mark is a classic someday.
The Mecum auction guys can discuss that rare option in 93, while the bidding increases.
 
I don't know if it would fix your problem, but I have my doubts... Who did you get the struts from?
Anyone know the brakes bias of our cars f/r?

I don't if Ford did it to cut costs, as the two piece shaft would cost more to make than a one piece for instance.

I got them from dennis's performance shop... but it was installed from some local shop. But now I know how to replace them myself. If this isn't causing my issue, I'll hold off from getting new shocks. Anyone know what might be the problem? I will most likely take it to dennis to check it out.
Also if anybody can post a picture of the OEM shock fitted in there(So I can see what it's supposed to look like) it'd be very appreciated. I couldn't find it by searching all i got was lazersvt's post.
 

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