Tune-Up time 125K miles

Are you sure that the play is in the differential and not in the CV joints at the back wheels?

I was installing the magnaflow cat-back yesterday and while under there I decided to try and find where my drive line play is. It's coming from the CVs closet to the differential equally on both sides. It's not much play but enough to be felt/heard. I'm learning to shift different mainly by taking all aggressiveness out of the shift seems to result in a nice, clean, bump free shift.

Thanks mikey, You've been right on all this.

Now the only thing left is my high idle issue. It's not the PCV valve or elbo and it's not the IAC. Several people have told me to use starting fluid but I don't like using it near electrical wiring or rubber hoses. I really would rather use propane which I don't have access to at the moment.
 
I was installing the magnaflow cat-back yesterday and while under there I decided to try and find where my drive line play is. It's coming from the CVs closet to the differential equally on both sides. It's not much play but enough to be felt/heard. I'm learning to shift different mainly by taking all aggressiveness out of the shift seems to result in a nice, clean, bump free shift.

Thanks mikey, You've been right on all this.

Now the only thing left is my high idle issue. It's not the PCV valve or elbo and it's not the IAC. Several people have told me to use starting fluid but I don't like using it near electrical wiring or rubber hoses. I really would rather use propane which I don't have access to at the moment.

vacuum leaks cannot and will not cause a high idle, If you had vacuum leaks it would run slower and crappier, any car with MAF will run lean and pop a code if you had a vacuum leak. Have you run diagnostic codes on it?? If it really is high idle it should throw a code like, "cannot control low rpm" or something like that. Also use grease on the hinges, but not the latches, use a penetrating oil in latches or it will gum them up and can make the door ajar switches stick. also anytime you can stick to ford stuff like only buy ford ignition coils, they should be motorcraft and most parts stores can get them, I am a mechanic and buy get a discount at dealer, and they are cheaper from the dealer than the junk from autozone.
 
I finally solved my high idle issue. It's call there wasn't one, the tach is off by about 200 rpm. I don't know why or how but the computer says it idles at about 880 rpm while the tach says just under 1100 rpm. On another good note, my LS passed smog with flying colors. The highest measurement was 1 PPM at idle on the HC.

I did replace my PCV valve and elbow anyway. They were original and the elbow was about ready to crack all the way through anyway.
 
Ok, I've searched, and I've read the manual but

Let me know if I'm missing anything or if you have a suggestion.

Thanks in advance!

so you basicly want your own thread that encompasses most all discussions ever held on LVC?

lol
 
so you basicly want your own thread that encompasses most all discussions ever held on LVC?

lol

No.

The shifting bump was less shifting technique and more due to worn CV joints.

I decided to post my finding on here so that when people use the search function they can actually find answers. So many threads are started but the answers are often not posted.

If you're going to make fun of me for this thread then you should blast those that start thread in the Lincoln LS forum that aren't even about the LS, let along Lincolns.
 
hey it was a VERY good top 10 questions

which was kind of the point I was making

someone should turn it into a FAQ

dont be so sensitive, i wasnt making fun of you.
 
hey it was a VERY good top 10 questions

which was kind of the point I was making

someone should turn it into a FAQ

dont be so sensitive, i wasnt making fun of you.

Oh you were laughing, how's that not making fun of me :confused:

:rolleyes:
 

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