why use the trac-loc

I moved to an Eaton True-Trac and 4.30s after a couple years and a few hundred track passes on the '93.

I rebuilt it with extra clutches and a stiffer spring and installed it (still with 4.10s) in the '96.

I guess it depends on the usage, but for most, 4.10s with the trac-lok all you really need. :)

You sure it was a truetrac driller? Mine has no clutches or springs in it, all helical gears.
 
If its a gen 2 mark your going to need a higher stall converter to see the 13's. Without a converter should be 14.5-14.2. Sounds like you use the spray how much you going to throw at the mark.

"Sounds like I use the spray?" In the Mach1? I don't use spray although I did when I bought it, 125 shot got me 11.80. The Mark will get no spray until I wring it out n/a. More than likely it too will be a 125 shot at the most with a svt focus pump, bap and ofcourse a good tune. Not trying to break any records here, just have a quick dd that's respectable at the track and fun to drive.
 
You sure it was a truetrac driller? Mine has no clutches or springs in it, all helical gears.

LOL, yes that post was confusing, wasn't it. :p

I had a trac-lok with 4.10s in the '93 that I replaced with a true-trac with the 4.30s. THEN I rebuilt the trac-lok and installed the 4.10s in the '96 with the newly rebuilt trac-lok.

For the longest time, I couldn't figure out how the true-trac with helical gears worked. I mean there were no "opposing" gears or anything. Then a couple years ago while on the HRPT, Eaton had a vendor display where they had a bare true-trac setup on a stand with 'handles' on each end. Once you grabbed the handles and held one side while you turned the other, you immediately noticed the transfer of torque and could 'see' how it worked. I've been impressed with it and don't understand why anyone would use a locker instead of a true-trac on any street/strip vehicle.
 
LOL, yes that post was confusing, wasn't it. :p

I had a trac-lok with 4.10s in the '93 that I replaced with a true-trac with the 4.30s. THEN I rebuilt the trac-lok and installed the 4.10s in the '96 with the newly rebuilt trac-lok.

For the longest time, I couldn't figure out how the true-trac with helical gears worked. I mean there were no "opposing" gears or anything. Then a couple years ago while on the HRPT, Eaton had a vendor display where they had a bare true-trac setup on a stand with 'handles' on each end. Once you grabbed the handles and held one side while you turned the other, you immediately noticed the transfer of torque and could 'see' how it worked. I've been impressed with it and don't understand why anyone would use a locker instead of a true-trac on any street/strip vehicle.

I didn't see how much hp they are rated for, any ideas?
 
you can call eaton and ask a tech. They have a rating system for horse and tires sizes. Very good tech department. lol, driller thats what i thought you meant, you confusled me.
 

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