What the heck kind of chip do I have "MAX RPM"

look at my other thread with the 80mm intake pic, good thing the guy gave me the stock airbox, seems like ill be putting everything back to stock
 
look at my other thread with the 80mm intake pic, good thing the guy gave me the stock airbox, seems like ill be putting everything back to stock

great idea
put it back to stock and EBAY that crap off to someone else.

the stock air box is a very nice peice in the mark 8 unlike other cars where the stock box is a "problem area"

on the mark 8 it was optimized for the application.
 
since I took the chip out, how long do I have to drive it for it to remap itself to stock settings?
 
since I took the chip out, how long do I have to drive it for it to remap itself to stock settings?

Read what I wrote above. Since I hope you pulled power to pull the chip, its already re-learning. Besides, pulling the chip should revert it to stock anyway.
 
since I took the chip out, how long do I have to drive it for it to remap itself to stock settings?

If you properly disconnected the battery it shouldn't have to "remap" it'll be instantly back to stock

If you did not disconnect the battery and the PCM learned ALOT of bad info from that meter, it may take a long time to "relearn".

The PCM is only allowed to correct;/learn in small increments.
Depending on how much BAD INFO it's learned, there is no way to really say now long to "unstupify" itself.


Do this...
disconnect BOTH battery cables from the battery
Then.. touch both cable ends together.
That will clear the PCM and the KAM (keep alive memory) by sucking the reference voltage out to ground.

Then.. go drive the snot out of it.. being leary and carefully listening for PINGING/Detonation
IF it pings or detonates... LET OFF THE GAS, DO NOT DRIVE THRU DETONATION..

if it detonates are first, then doesnt on subsequent tries them the PCM is learning
If it keeps detonating, your gonna have to look into the fuel system to make SURE it's getting enough fuel
stock pcm calibration should NOT ping.. if it does.. you have problems
 
You have to drive the car EXACTLY 23.7 miles. And I mean EXACTLY!

Then, shut the car off for 10 minutes.

Start car after 10 minutes, drive another .4 miles. Shut car off for 5 minutes.

Do an indian rain dance around it 4 times. While the car is parked!

Start car, and drive home.

Or, you can just drive it around for 15-20 minutes. It don't take long before it re-learns the basics if everything else if good on it.

I'm sure XLR can give you a better idea, of an exact time to drive the car.
 
cstarsmall.jpg


http://www.lincolnmotorsport.com/
 
You have to drive the car EXACTLY 23.7 miles. And I mean EXACTLY!

Then, shut the car off for 10 minutes.

Start car after 10 minutes, drive another .4 miles. Shut car off for 5 minutes.

Do an indian rain dance around it 4 times. While the car is parked!

Start car, and drive home.

Or, you can just drive it around for 15-20 minutes. It don't take long before it re-learns the basics if everything else if good on it.

I'm sure XLR can give you a better idea, of an exact time to drive the car.

you left out the very important KEY bit of info

during this process you right index finger must be firmly stuck in your ear.
If it doesnt hurt you dont have it in far enough..
AND.. you have to say the following the entire time

Stick your finger in your ear and say Tingalingaloo
 
Please tell me you dont have an open element cone air filter on there as well!

Yes he does.

Looks likes it's the stock MAF meter out of the stock airbox with a conical filter on the end. This could be at least part of the problem.
 
the stock air meter has a straight side
look at his pics.. doesnt it look to have a slight curve "bowed out" looking?

if so that is probably the C&L meter.
If it has bolt holes on the side and C&L stamped on the bottom it aint a stock meter
hard to tell from that pic, but it doesnt look to be the stock meter, I could be wrong tho
 
with a conical filter on the end. This could be at least part of the problem.

yes.. that conical filter on the end IS completely changing/altering the way air enters the MAF
With that filter it can pull air in from the sides, which is very very bad.

Ford spent alot of money and time to ensure "laminar air flow" across the meter, putting a cone filter on there screws that up badly.

anytime you alter the way air enters the maf, you are drasticly changing the information the PCM receives

and like I said before... it's very bad to LIE to the PCM
 
Gee, now I want to dump my conical setup. Its factory Cobra with heat shield.
 
should I call geno to find out if this might be his chip then?

you could...

I never had much luck with mail order tuning, some love it..it just didn't work for me.
99% of the people out there will probably be fine with mail order tuning.

I fell into the very picky hard to please 1% that needed more control and I just bought the software and did it myself.

I spent nearly a grand on mailorder chips before I made my decision to spend another grand and to it myself.. I know.. call me stupid, I can take it..I'm a glutton of punishment.
 
That BTCO written by hand looks to be a forgery.
I think we should get a forensic document expert in here to authenticate the chip.



Edit: Oh crap! I just noticed this isn't the politics section.;)
 
I started with a chip. The chip was tuned wrong. As a method of elimination I bought the SCT software on XLRVIII's advice and will never look at another chip again.

A chip is a good start to get you a taste. If you want more than nothing can beat the ability to tune your own car and change the program every day if you want - or like me maybe 12 times a day when dialing things in.
 
That BTCO written by hand looks to be a forgery.
I think we should get a forensic document expert in here to authenticate the chip.



Edit: Oh crap! I just noticed this isn't the politics section.;)

when i looked at it I saw BTC0, but my mind knew what it was looking for
knowing the what the pieces to the puzzle look like, greatly helps.

I agree it's a forgery tho..
*dives into the rabbit hole*
 
ok, so i drove the car for a few hours today, the check engine came back on after about an hr of driving. Still the bog, the car does feel a bit smoother overall without the chip but still the bog
 
I used to have an old legacy LMS "MaxRPM" chip and a C&L MAF meter AND a conical filter. :rolleyes:

engfront.jpg


Just the way I remembered it.

engside.jpg


Have you tried 'clocking' the MAF housing?
 

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