my black lsc

You should get the CE side moldings and have them painted black. I think that would finish it up nicely.

.....If you haven't already. I can't tell from the first pic.
 
Car looks good with the new paint. I was just down in Baltimore. You don't happen to be down on Pennsylvania Ave sometime do you? I saw a very clean black LSC parked there headed back to my hotel.
 
it probably was me if it had the ten spoke chrome wheels i get my hair cut on the ave i live right around the corner.What color is yours?
 
Small world. I almost stopped to see if I could find who i belonged too. Very clean in person. Mine is evergreen but I flew down for work and had a rental wile I was there. It has a blown headgasket right now anyway been driving the LS. The Mark is getting some mods when the heads come off and won't be my every day car anymore.
 
pioneer f700bt has it all no cd's at all everything on the ipod and it looks stock
 
rich what are some cheap nice performance upgrades i can add to the mark.I read about all these gears and stuff i do all my own work.I just want to add some pep.
 
A tune is the best bang for the buck then gears. Depending on what gears you go with you might need to change the shift schedule in the tune so if you plan on both keep that in mind. CAI is worthless on mild Mark VIII, don't waste your money.
 
i know what the tune does but i dont exactly understand the gears and stall part care to explain.I think i should be able to do the gears i put a whole rear end on a crown vic axles and all
 
The stall will give you a much faster take off. No HP gains on this mod but well worth it if your lookin for the seat of the pants gains. It raises the rpms when the car is starting putting the engine in a better power band down low mph.

For the gears it again gives the engine more punch down low. Unlike a stall converter the gears will be constant all the time. The stall only gives you the advantage when it is unlocked and allows the engine to rev higher. Neither of these mods add hp but do lower et's. For gears if you can find a center already set up with the gears it as easy as bolting in. Thats the way I went. I got 3.73 from a cobra and now have the original center sitting around. When I go with other gears I can install in the other center.

The tune will help tie all the changes together and also change some of the lazy tunes from the factory.

I would say the converter then the gears then the tune. In that order would be the best way to lower et's IMO
 
No way... tune first... unless you are going to do it all in the same week... you need a new tune with a higher stall anyways.
 
Performance wise the tune will do less to a mostly stock mark than the other two mentioned mods. Thats why I would say tune last. Then if your getting a chip or dyno tune then most your mods are done at the time of tuning. Tuning didn't give me that much performance.
 
What I'm saying is that you should get a tune/tuning solution first because both the additional mods of gears and a stall will require a tune anyways...
 
kustomizingkid said:
What I'm saying is that you should get a tune/tuning solution first because both the additional mods of gears and a stall will require a tune anyways...
Click to expand...

If you're getting a tuning solution that you can retune yourself down the line as you add mods, sure. If you're stuck with a one shot deal like a chip someone burns for you, or where you have to pay $50 per reburn... then the tune should come last IMO.

And neither gears nor a stall will require a tune. Benefit from a tune, yeah, require a tune no.
 
Well why would you put yourself in that :q:q:q:qty situation :p

Seriously... lets pay someone to make tiny minute changes to a tune they made years ago and have resold hundreds of times... sounds like a deal to me.
 
MediumD said:
If you're getting a tuning solution that you can retune yourself down the line as you add mods, sure. If you're stuck with a one shot deal like a chip someone burns for you, or where you have to pay $50 per reburn... then the tune should come last IMO.

And neither gears nor a stall will require a tune. Benefit from a tune, yeah, require a tune no.
Click to expand...

Depending on what gears and how loose a converter it may need to tune to shift right but yeah it will still be driveable in the interim.

kustomizingkid said:
Well why would you put yourself in that :q:q:q:qty situation :p

Seriously... lets pay someone to make tiny minute changes to a tune they made years ago and have resold hundreds of times... sounds like a deal to me.
Click to expand...

Some of don't want to or cant afford to spend the extra cash for the PRP or whatever. And some like me don't want to be bothered with the time involved getting over the learning curve and fine tuning the car. An Xcal2 canned tune on a mostly stock car was fine for me and paying someone else with a dyno and a wideband to tune my new combo in a day compared to months of me fine tuning the car is worth it to me.
 
Rich88LSC said:
Some of don't want to or cant afford to spend the extra cash for the PRP or whatever. And some like me don't want to be bothered with the time involved getting over the learning curve and fine tuning the car. An Xcal2 canned tune on a mostly stock car was fine for me and paying someone else with a dyno and a wideband to tune my new combo in a day compared to months of me fine tuning the car is worth it to me.
Click to expand...


people can spend 6-900 dollars on a convertor, but wont spend the extra 300.00 to make it work right?

People can spend 400.00 on a canned tune and the same 300 more dollars makes it a custom tune.

tune and convertor is close to a GRAND in cost, for 30% more you can "have your cake and eat it too".

Or.... you can continue to "write checks" to other people that "in the end" will be "more" than the 300 additional cost listed above.

"some people" as you put it would rather "write a check".. I understand that.

I chose to get the racer software and stop writing checks, after I spent "over a grand" trying different vendors chips.

SO including the 3 chips I purchased initially, PLUS the grand I spent on the chip, burner and software I'm 2K into a "tuning solution".. and 5 years later I still feel it was "the best money I spent" on my car.

feel free to "keep writing checks" tho, if THAT is your idea of "modding" your car.
 
XLRVIII said:
people can spend 6-900 dollars on a convertor, but wont spend the extra 300.00 to make it work right?

People can spend 400.00 on a canned tune and the same 300 more dollars makes it a custom tune.

tune and convertor is close to a GRAND in cost, for 30% more you can "have your cake and eat it too".

Or.... you can continue to "write checks" to other people that "in the end" will be "more" than the 300 additional cost listed above.

"some people" as you put it would rather "write a check".. I understand that.

I chose to get the racer software and stop writing checks, after I spent "over a grand" trying different vendors chips.

SO including the 3 chips I purchased initially, PLUS the grand I spent on the chip, burner and software I'm 2K into a "tuning solution".. and 5 years later I still feel it was "the best money I spent" on my car.

feel free to "keep writing checks" tho, if THAT is your idea of "modding" your car.
Click to expand...

You live and learn. I bought an Xcal2 wasn't 100% happy with the canned tune out of the box and the vendor made adjustments and emailed me a new file. I didn't have to resort to other vendors and write more checks for another chip/tuner. I never said my car or anyone elses for that matter with a canned tune or even a dyno tune is tune better then yours. It worked well enough for my needs and after the next round of mods are done and the cars goes on the dyno to get tuned I am still in for less then have of what you spend on a "tuning solution".

Your entitled to think I'm wrong if you want to but there are plenty of people on this forum others like it and out in the real world that and are happy with their $250 chips and $400 tuners. My only issue is you seem to have a problem with with anyone getting a canned tune. The point isn't to get into a pissing contest over who has the better tune or who spent more money on mods. There are a few options for tuning and depending on your budget, your mods and how much time you want to commit to getting it right any one of them can make sense.
 
Rich88LSC said:
My only issue is you seem to have a problem with with anyone getting a canned tune..
Click to expand...

Well if that is your "only" issue then you ARE wrong.

just today, I agree'd with another poster that based on the mild/no mods the OP would be better served by a "canned tune".

canned tunes are perfect for about 80% of the people out there.
Picky azzholes like myself, need finer control of adjustments than that are allowed by canned tunes.

I'm glad your personal experience was better than mine.
maybe you fall into that 80ish percent.

Now I'm not saying these chips I got were "bad tunes".
each one had something I didn't like, be it the wrong shift points, or lock up schedules...and in the end.. "I" was better served by "doing it myself".

Just because I disagree with you, doesnt mean it's a pissing contest.
remember it takes TWO to have a contest, without the second person you are only "pissing in the wind".
 
Rich88LSC said:
I never said my car or anyone elses for that matter with a canned tune or even a dyno tune is tune better then yours..
Click to expand...

and I NEVER said my custom tune was better than ANYONE elses canned tune.
try not to put words in my mouth..m'kay?
 
Each to his own. If I were going with a gear change and maybe a shift kit. I would be happy without any tuner. For the doit yourself gears and a shift kit would be very dueable with limited tools. these two would wake up a stock mark very well. I have no shift schedule or lock up changes and its fine with me.
 
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