New Dyno Numbers stock spray and new tune

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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Okay did like 10 pulls on the dyno today if not more.

1. Base tune on car not heat soaked it put down 237whp! Was able to lock it up with the sct software in third.

After that it fell to about 223 or so after it got heat soaked.

2. New best 254whp/255 tq

then did the spray, i think the personal best was 347whp and that was with timing pulled a couple of degrees. I don't have the sheet for the spray, my pedel switch had to be adjusted and the bottle temp was fluctuating, i think the 347 was at a little under 900psi

this was with autolite 274 gapped at a lil over .054. Ill post the dynosheet when I have my scanner all hooked up.
 
Cobra intake manifold, Underdrive pullys and high stall converter and i should be comfortably in the high 12's. It should be deep into the 13's on spray the way it sits now hopefully :-)
 
scannedimage.jpg
 
Pic is abit small. Any chance you could make it bigger? :D:p:D:p
 
driller said:
Pretty good curves.

What's up with the shutdown rpm?
Click to expand...

I'll have to ask the tuner... I know that the car shifts higher than what it shut down on the dyno. I'm guessing with the sct package after max hp and it started to decline he cut it.

I'm going to go back to have some things adjusted in the trans. The cars setup for 4.10's but the shift schedule is stock I believe. He wanted to drive it and figure out what I wanted especially with the added power curve. The 1-2 shift is at like 8mph, 2-3 at like low 20's, if o/d is off it may go into 4th at like 24 maybe lower.

A buddys sct tune will hold the gears a bit longer. 1-2 is at about 18 at light throttle, maybe 10 mph more overall, but i have to check.

I did question about not going further in the rpm and I assumed it was because I have the old style valves and that its not good to frequent high rpms, especially if i'm not making power up there and its on the risky side. I have a stock program on my chip as well... ill have to dable between the two to see where there is room for improvement.

I like the tranny isn't as sloppy when I gate shift... but Geno's file had way more harder shifts, barked the tires pretty hard. This one does but not as much.

He also was telling me that my Torque Converter, even though he had it in Lock up in 3rd would unlock much to his mystery, but that may have been only when I was spraying I can't recall if it was with or with out spray or both. I do have a 01 trans, which may be a little funky but I don't see what the problem was be, or maybe the TC can't hold lock up for the hp levels on spray.

Other than that, the temps always stay at L never above.

bottom line driller i'm not exactly sure you tell me !
 
he also did tell me that I was running a bit rich on the wideband, but he said thats not neccesarily bad.
 
I also wanted the setup for a cold air intake and he said there would be no difference so its not worth it, being that the filter will get dirtier quicker? I was thinking he'd be all about putting the stock airbox back in, but he said just leave the cone.

he said hes dyno'd countless mustangs with the piping in the fender and never seen a difference one way or the other.

I did see first hand what heat soak can do to an engine on the dyno. I pulled in 237 stock, then the following two stock pulls it was down to the low 220's. he explained that this first number isn't a number you should go on, that he usually does three pulls and takes the 3rd pull as the base.
 
Sounds like he had your best interest in mind. If he shut it down past peak HP, it was just barely!

It can be tough to hold the converter locked - some tuners will try too hard and the converter will be smoked! :eek:

Take what he says about the CAI with a grain of salt. He is accurate in saying there will be no difference with the CAI - on the dyno! If you log your IAT at the track, you will know if there's a difference or not. You won't need the dyno, you just need to see the temps. If you see no difference in the temp then there will be no difference in the power.

As far as the shift points and lockup is concerned, sounds like he just needs to drive it some on the street some to know where to set the shift points and lockup at. You can't hardly beat some real street tuning when it comes to issues like that.
 
exactly why he told me to come back... I think my next mods will be underdrive pullys maybe some exhaust work to replace stock headers and cats... kooks are too pricey to me but I am interested in maybe those cobra shorty headers FFRP stuff but I guess you have to modify the steering joint.

The underdrive pullys from what I gather would be good to do between dynotunes because it just frees up existing hp.

JP I was looking at your dyno from dragtimes.com - what stuff was done to your car with that pull on there? It looks like your torque comes on a lot sooner than my car. But you do have headers and open exhaust right?

Whats the underdrive pullys worth? Bill @SC said it could be anywhere from 5-15whp. For 200 some odd dollar or whatever it is thats another serious mod for the money if your seeing 10-15 whp?

After that, if I plan to go any further would be cobra intake manifold, shortened runners and imrc delete with egr block off and a HUGE high stall! and some funkin tires
 
I would need to look back when that was done to see what the mods were. That info is on another PC.

A lot of people have charging and cooling problems with underdrive pulleys. Tread with caution. FWIW, I run a Steeda underdrive crank pulley but have the Meziere electric water pump and an OVERdrive pulley on the alternator. As far as HP from the pulleys, it's likely 5-10 HP, no more in my opinion.

Most don't believe in the IMRC delete unless you are pushing boost. You can actually 'try it out' by unplugging the IMRC solenoid. My car doesn't like the IMRCs open below 3000 rpms but it sure does above 4500! :D
 
10-15whp or crank? ive unplugged it, yea it stinks down low... but if you have a high stall i can't see it being a problem. its not much of a problem with 4.10s if you gate shift. But that would just to get the cobra intake installation much simpler.

bill at SC seems to know his stuff, i don't think his steeda underdrive package would do me wrong. Anyone bought it?
 
I dunno... I'm about to take off my serp belt and punch it down the block to see if I notice a difference... I've read conflicting stuff... Some argue that under drives are while others say the raise in temps neggate any real world gains. I should have run autolite 93s to see if more timing could have been added with out the knock sensor acting up. I was told to run the stock heat range for the n20 some I'm assuming there really isn't more on the table by switching heat ranges.
 
Nice numbers Abe... very respectable NA numbers especially from a Mustang Dyno... when you going back to the track?
 
We're going to Island Dragway Friday. Then i'll be at a dirt track race beer bash saturday near hatfield. Can't wait for the weekend!
 
Weather forcast is possible showers on Friday. I am watching it cause I will be @ E-town on Saturday but with my WRX not my Mark :shifty:
 
driller said:
Most don't believe in the IMRC delete unless you are pushing boost. You can actually 'try it out' by unplugging the IMRC solenoid. My car doesn't like the IMRCs open below 3000 rpms but it sure does above 4500! :D
Click to expand...

JP few people with Cobras told me they love it. Lighter stick shift cars though. They said the big thing with deletes is in the tune. The computer pulls timing while the IMRCs are commanded closed which in itself hurts power. You need to not just turn of the IMRCs in the tune to keep from getting a check engine light but tune out the timing changes. If done correctly the low rpm loses should not be much. I am close to starting some more mods and very possibly will try this out.
 
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