Check Transmission - E

Caleb

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Alright, to make this a little easier, having a lot of symptoms listed in this thread YAY "Check Transmission" With the infamous "E"

struggles to change gears, let off gas, changes fine. Loss of power, mash on gas and revs up high without a lot of power. Struggles to make it up a hill. Progressively gets worse. Seems to clear up and go away after killing engine and letting it cool down. Simply killing car and restarting makes the check transmission error message and the E go away.

Only driven about 50 miles since I got this thing running “it sat for 5 years”. Then today on the way home, I got to the point where I couldn’t drive over 10-15MPH.

haven’t gotten a chance to pull codes yet. Will do so tomorrow and update. Thoughts?

P.S. - I’ve been a Lincoln owner for roughly 2 weeks and I’m starting to become pretty good friends with you guys :)
 
Need the specific codes to make any reasonable guesses...
 
no codes.
I’m tempted to drop pan and change fluid and filter. Maybe clean out valve body while I’m at it

If you have the "E" displayed, then there are codes. Most generic codes readers won't pull them. Forscan will, and it is free-ish. If you are going to keep an LS going, you are going to need either Forscan or a much more expensive tool.
FORScan forum - Index page
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(One of several adapters that work.)
 
If you have the "E" displayed, then there are codes. Most generic codes readers won't pull them. Forscan will, and it is free-ish. If you are going to keep an LS going, you are going to need either Forscan or a much more expensive tool.
FORScan forum - Index page
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(One of several adapters that work.)

it was yesterday. Got her home, killed it, and restarted, went away immediately. Sure code could be stored in there.

I have Forscan. But I also have an iPhone and apparently the POS Bluetooth adapter I have doesn’t like IPhones?

I drove it to oriellys to have codes checked. Drove fine as long as I drove it very gently. Try to give her some gas, and she bogs down.
 
iOS generally won't work with bluetooth OBD adapters. You have to use the WiFi ones with iPhones.
Yes, the codes will still be stored for a few drive cycles.
 
I have the same issue but I have p1504 iac circuit code. That code is a stored code I was told and has something to do with either the pcm being bad and needing a reflash or a break in the wires some where between the iac and pcm or iac and fuse box..I could be wrong but I've had all the same symptoms that u have described
 
I have the same issue but I have p1504 iac circuit code. That code is a stored code I was told and has something to do with either the pcm being bad and needing a reflash or a break in the wires some where between the iac and pcm or iac and fuse box..I could be wrong but I've had all the same symptoms that u have described

IAC - Idle Air Control - personally, I wouldn’t think idle air control would have anything to do with transmission issue. Possibly separate issue, or code.
 
Also the transmission solenoid pack could be bad just don't know the code for that one just yet
 
Also the transmission solenoid pack could be bad just don't know the code for that one just yet

from what I am gathering so far, it’s usually a solenoid pack, a valve body, or hell could be low on fluid and a bad filter. I’m waiting on a code reader for Forscan as Joe recommended earlier. Does a lot of extra work with ford vehicles. I would suggest looking into that as he stated.

Your gonna have to drop the pan (I’m going to do the same) so I would go ahead and get you some Trans Fkuid and a new filter. Check everything out once you take it out. See what filter looks like.

I’m lucky, I know where a transmission is now already on the ground, that worked fine (motor had blown head gasket) so I’m going to pull out solenoid pack and valve body Incase I need it, and change fluid and filter, and inspect everything else while I’m in there.

I’ll be updating with any extra codes and progress throughout the weekend
 
The auto parts stores that read codes free CANNOT read these transmission codes. When the E is shown codes have been stored in memory. They will remain in memory for about a month after the last time the error was present.

The best way to read the codes is with Forscan and a laptop.
 
The auto parts stores that read codes free CANNOT read these transmission codes. When the E is shown codes have been stored in memory. They will remain in memory for about a month after the last time the error was present.

The best way to read the codes is with Forscan and a laptop.

got a buddy on his way over right now with a better code scanner, and has Forscan on phone also. (Oddly enough he is a LS owner too, he knows the pain lol)

going to be updating later.

also going to get on jack stands, drain fluid, and drop pan tonight
 
Need the specific codes to make any reasonable guesses...

attaching picture of code I got.
Also attaching picture of valve body and plunger. Plunger has a little bit of sludge in it, but doesn’t seem terrible. Haven’t dropped valve body. Looks clean on underside.

thoughts?

DE4A25CC-650A-4CBE-9E48-E21ADC97631F.jpeg


7FD34F84-8787-4D15-BBE3-289B687DE834.png


C6C20A17-58CA-4309-9552-AC745377850E.jpeg
 
Found this, feel free to chime in on accuracy.
Solenoid pack maybe?

4DE11083-A21D-4484-8B5B-2C913BE1015A.png


2BA276EE-DE8E-499F-A70C-336169996FF4.png
 
Found this, feel free to chime in on accuracy.
Solenoid pack maybe?

View attachment 828574173

View attachment 828574174
My 2002 Lincoln LSE V8 3.9L. had a total transmission rebuild and I did it right...ONE and DONE...figured why mess around...I love this car and always wanted a 1st Gen LSE Black on Black ...so had the transmission done right the first time...it's been 4 months and I never felt a smoother transmission than the 5R55N
This is what was needed to make my transmission BETTER than new again
OverHaul Kit-$409.00
Filter-$27.00
2nd Band-$46.00
5th Band-$46.00
2nd Servo-$28.00
5th-Servo-$28.00
Reverse Band-$59.00
O.D.Sprag-NA
Solenoid Pack-$329.00
NSS Switch-$44.00
Valve Body Kit-$105.00
Torque Converter-$359.00
Rev. Switch-$38.00
Misc.Work on Exhaust- $100.00(Due to rusty manifold Exhaust pipe bolts being a PITA)
10 Quarts of Mercon V-$150.00
Total parts-$1280.00
Total Labor-$1768.00
Sub Total-$3048.00
Tax-130.28
Pay This Amount Total-$3178.28
So with that being said if you can get by with a simple Solenoid Pack you're doing very good...My fingers are crossed for you ...Good Luck
 
My 2002 Lincoln LSE V8 3.9L. had a total transmission rebuild and I did it right...ONE and DONE...figured why mess around...I love this car and always wanted a 1st Gen LSE Black on Black ...so had the transmission done right the first time...it's been 4 months and I never felt a smoother transmission than the 5R55N
This is what was needed to make my transmission BETTER than new again
OverHaul Kit-$409.00
Filter-$27.00
2nd Band-$46.00
5th Band-$46.00
2nd Servo-$28.00
5th-Servo-$28.00
Reverse Band-$59.00
O.D.Sprag-NA
Solenoid Pack-$329.00
NSS Switch-$44.00
Valve Body Kit-$105.00
Torque Converter-$359.00
Rev. Switch-$38.00
Misc.Work on Exhaust- $100.00(Due to rusty manifold Exhaust pipe bolts being a PITA)
10 Quarts of Mercon V-$150.00
Total parts-$1280.00
Total Labor-$1768.00
Sub Total-$3048.00
Tax-130.28
Pay This Amount Total-$3178.28
So with that being said if you can get by with a simple Solenoid Pack you're doing very good...My fingers are crossed for you ...Good Luck

i sincerely hope it doesn’t need to be rebuilt. Lol I love the car but I don’t have $3k worth of love. I would go for a used transmission and that’s probably about it. Only paid $500 for her to begin with.
Impressive project though! Kudos to you.
 
i sincerely hope it doesn’t need to be rebuilt. Lol I love the car but I don’t have $3k worth of love. I would go for a used transmission and that’s probably about it. Only paid $500 for her to begin with.
Impressive project though! Kudos to you.
I paid $600 for mine (the car did come with MG aftermarket wheels and is a LSE V8)...knowing the Transmission was messed up...if it wasn't for wanting a black on Black LSE for quite some time and knowing the engine was solid I prolly wouldn't have dropped the money either...so I totally understand where you're coming from...we joke all the time in my Facebook group Lincoln LS Obsessed ...we have $6000 dollar cars worth $1000 dollars lol!
 
I paid $600 for mine (the car did come with MG aftermarket wheels and is a LSE V8)...knowing the Transmission was messed up...if it wasn't for wanting a black on Black LSE for quite some time and knowing the engine was solid I prolly wouldn't have dropped the money either...so I totally understand where you're coming from...we joke all the time in my Facebook group Lincoln LS Obsessed ...we have $6000 dollar cars worth $1000 dollars lol!


Lol it happens quick. Sounds like a sweet ride. I bought this one for $500, all needed to get running was a couple diodes and gas. Cracked windshield, but I have another Lincoln with parts in it I’ll be taking windshield out of. And I took the stock wheels off of it. I could go on, but I heard a saying about the Lincoln’s, said you should always own 2, so you have one to drive while your other one is in the shop lol
 
Found this also.
And I forgot to add I was expecting more fluid to come out. I’m going to measure what came out, but seems like it could have been low. I’m hopeful that with new solenoid, filter, and fluid she will be good.

1F7B45FD-BC1E-419C-86DE-72FFD634059B.jpeg
 
Removed valve body tonight. Looks extremely clean. Fluid smells good, and looks good. Normal amount of clutch dust on the pan magnet. unbolted solenoid, but still seems stuck in its joke. Is it just supposed to yank out?

Only thing I noticed on valve body is there is one valve that moves freely (but I know nothing about them so don’t know if this is normal or not.

so, seeing as how everything is clean, I’m still leaning towards maybe old/low fluid and possibly bad solenoid. Considering putting it back together in the morning and filling her back up with new fluid and filter and seeing how it does. If still having issues, maybe replacing solenoid after.

any input welcome.
 
Removed valve body tonight. Looks extremely clean. Fluid smells good, and looks good. Normal amount of clutch dust on the pan magnet. unbolted solenoid, but still seems stuck in its joke. Is it just supposed to yank out?

Only thing I noticed on valve body is there is one valve that moves freely (but I know nothing about them so don’t know if this is normal or not.

so, seeing as how everything is clean, I’m still leaning towards maybe old/low fluid and possibly bad solenoid. Considering putting it back together in the morning and filling her back up with new fluid and filter and seeing how it does. If still having issues, maybe replacing solenoid after.

any input welcome.
Did you remember the bolt on top of solenoid...you'll need a 10mm swivel Ratchet cut off to about 3 or 4 inches to get it off
Solenoid R&R - 2002 Lincoln LS V8 (5R55N)

Remove - 1 Bolt (10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head) on top of Solenoid Pack, holding the electrical connection on.
77823-15703e11eba0df55d010e8b889a92c6a.gif

Note: I cut my "Gear Wrench with Flex Head" down to 3 5/8" total length
77824-d095ab38172e4c832838579b13bbb0ed.jpg

** This is a Very tight area to get at with a wrench

Remove - Solenoid Pack - 8 Bolts - T-30 Torx Bit - (7 long bolts, 1 short bolt)
77821-f2517a62afe44e4ed4c4226260242994.gif
 
Removed valve body tonight. Looks extremely clean. Fluid smells good, and looks good. Normal amount of clutch dust on the pan magnet. unbolted solenoid, but still seems stuck in its joke. Is it just supposed to yank out?

Only thing I noticed on valve body is there is one valve that moves freely (but I know nothing about them so don’t know if this is normal or not.

so, seeing as how everything is clean, I’m still leaning towards maybe old/low fluid and possibly bad solenoid. Considering putting it back together in the morning and filling her back up with new fluid and filter and seeing how it does. If still having issues, maybe replacing solenoid after.

any input welcome.
FWIW I went to Harbor Freight and bought the set it has the 10mm Ratchet ...remember to cut it down or it will never fit
 
Did you remember the bolt on top of solenoid...you'll need a 10mm swivel Ratchet cut off to about 3 or 4 inches to get it off
Solenoid R&R - 2002 Lincoln LS V8 (5R55N)

Remove - 1 Bolt (10mm - Gear Wrench with Flex Head) on top of Solenoid Pack, holding the electrical connection on.
View attachment 828574181
Note: I cut my "Gear Wrench with Flex Head" down to 3 5/8" total length
View attachment 828574182
** This is a Very tight area to get at with a wrench

Remove - Solenoid Pack - 8 Bolts - T-30 Torx Bit - (7 long bolts, 1 short bolt)
View attachment 828574183

good Info. Thanks!

is there a way to test it to see if this is what my issue is without replacing?
 
I noticed some of the test on All Data guide through what’s called a Trans Bench test and monitors the solenoids. Can Forscan do this? Or would I need one if the big scanners a shop would have?
 
Here are the pictures. Obviously I have no idea what I’m looking at for the most part lol not sure what SSB, and the rest mean. I assume referring to each solenoid and their state.

7FF4EC6D-28B4-43A7-B12F-C5EC814804CD.jpeg


F25E5FAE-F034-459E-B9A2-B85E0A693B63.jpeg


E79B46B0-7262-42C5-B087-42B78524AE15.jpeg


8373DD30-9979-4D02-91B8-BF52450D907F.jpeg
 

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