Parking brake replacement

jerryg2112

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I currently have the service parking brake warning. It seems to be functioning properly but is giving a c1802 code. I can hear it working and have verified that it is applying the brake but they are not fully engaged. So if the problem is cable stretch what is the solution? Manual says REPAIR or INSTALL new parking brake components as necessary. Which components? Will replacing the short cable on the drivers side take up the slack? They is available aftermarket or do you have to replace the whole assembly? Can you shorten the cable by affixing a new end with a swaging tool or welding? Feedback please.
 
It's probably a failing/failed parking brake cable, though it could also be a bad caliper or a bad module.
I don't see a way to repair a cable that wouldn't fail very soon. If the calipers check out as working correctly, then I'd replace the left and right parking brake cables (not sure why you are picking on the driver's side cable). The passenger one seems to fail more often, but once one goes, both should probably be replaced.

AFAIK, the only source for the cables is the junkyard.
 
Yes both calipers seem to be ok. I pulled the levers a little farther and was able to get the pads to clamp tightly so I couldn't spin the wheel. The reason I said drivers side was I thought it was the only one that separated from the assembly. I will have to give myself a little more room to get under the rear and take another look at the cable routing.
 
Both cable separate from the equalizer.
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

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Item Part Number Description
1 — Parking brake cable end (part of 2A635/2A823)
2 — Parking brake cable and conduit (part of 2A635/2A823)
3 W706703 Parking brake cable bracket bolts (2 required)
4 2598 Electronic parking brake actuator cable grommet (part of 2598)
5 2598 Electronic parking brake actuator cable end (part of 2598)
6 2A823 LH parking brake cable end
7 2A823 Parking brake cable and conduit (LH)
8 2A635 Parking brake cable and conduit (RH)
9 — Electronic parking brake actuator assembly electrical connector
10 W708829-S429 Electronic parking brake actuator assembly bolts (2 required)
11 2598 Electronic parking brake actuator assembly
 
I slipped a sleeve around the cable by the end to take up the slack and tested it. System was able to fully apply the parking brake and the warning went away. Now I know that it is definitely the stretched cables. Just have to find new cables now.
 
Since the DEW98 chassis is shared with the S-type... it's possible that the actuator and cables are the same.

The issue is that the serial # cutoff dates on the Jag seems rather random... but there are differences.

Maybe talking to someone at a Jag dealer... that is also somewhat familiar with the LS, would work.

I know in the past at least one person on this forum has dealt with someone in the parts department of Terry's Jaguar in Michigan... with positive results.

I have also used their website to cross reference parts. Again though... close attention has to be paid to the VIN cutoff dates.
 
AFAIK, the only source for the cables is the junkyard.

This is what I am afraid of...

In repairing my rear sway bar links (yes, I got an OEM passenger side and kept the Moog driver's side since I was able to get that one on...see Moog parts rant post) I noticed that the parking brake cable was 1) rubbing on the sway bar link and 2) had been rubbing on the CV boot causing the boot to tear. I also noticed that the cable conduit appeared to have popped out of its connector holding it to the brake (#2 in the picture). Also, my bracket bolt (#3) was missing. I found a suitable replacement bolt and popped the conduit back in place when I replaced the link.

Now, I see that the conduit is back out of its proper location and the cable is routed around the sway bar link than where it "should" be...routed on top of the link bolt (right?).

In looking on-line, I haven't found a replacement cable...2A823. Might there be a suitable conduit replacement that will hold the cable in place at the brake itself? Or am I destined for the junkyard?
 
See post #6 above. I have been on a Jag parts website... and it seems they have part #'s for both cables and the actuator.

At this point it would be best to take accurate measurements of the cables... and call a Jag parts department.
 
And if you get sticker shock you could try the boneyard. However... what you get there might not be much better than what you already have.
 
See post #6 above. I have been on a Jag parts website... and it seems they have part #'s for both cables and the actuator.

At this point it would be best to take accurate measurements of the cables... and call a Jag parts department.
Thanks, I did see your post but wasn't sure 1) if you had confirmed they had it and 2) if there might be a known fix for the conduit...

Maybe Moog makes one...LOL!
 
I didn't confirm anything... because I don't need them, (yet :rolleyes:). I am almost positive that I did see the cables AND actuator on the website... but never called to verify.
 
I don't have my LS in front of me to see how the conduit attaches... or know exactly what is wrong with yours.

BTW... how'd that split CV boot work out for you? Just curious.
 
An interesting note on that. NASCAR had determined that MooG will be the sole parts supplier for suspension/steering parts on all of the cars.

Hopefully that works out better for the drivers... than it does us. :mad:
Someone mentioned on FB ( I think) that there are different "lines" or "series" for MOOG...the R-Series and another, maybe C series(?). Not sure which is the better or which I had.
 
Also, my OEM rear link from Tasca did NOT come with replacement nuts. I reused the existing nuts but am thinking I should get some new ones.
 
Also, my OEM rear link from Tasca did NOT come with replacement nuts. I reused the existing nuts but am thinking I should get some new ones.

Yes, you should. The Ford OEM parts almost never come with the required hardware.
 
I don't have my LS in front of me to see how the conduit attaches... or know exactly what is wrong with yours.

BTW... how'd that split CV boot work out for you? Just curious.
Sorry, I missed this yesterday...

UPDATE: I put on my new $3 link nuts from Lincoln on the passenger side and everything seems jolly good (English accent). While the car was up, I rechecked my drivers side and noticed that the parking brake cable keeps getting caught on the top part of the sway bar link. This would then pull the parking brake cable conduit out of its place in the brake caliper. Previously, the parking brake bracket bolt was missing. I found a suitable replacement but couldn't get the tab into the notch to properly align the bracket. I was able to get it in the notch yesterday and that seems to help the alignment of the cable. I also used a zip tie to help keep the parking brake cable up away from the sway bar link. Not too tight just enough to have a better path.

Now to the boot...I haven't dealt with it yet but I did pump some more grease into the CV joint when working on the parking brake cable. I am still debating the best option...1) split and "welded" replacement; 2) uni-fit stretch the new boot over the joint replacement; or, 3) replace the whole half axle.
My concern with options 2 and 3 is getting the axle out of the hub without a hub removal tool. Of course I could get one but the tool is more expensive than the axle itself...

I am heading out on a business trip for the rest of the week and will fix it next week. Here are some boot replacement options.

OE Solutions Uni-Fit C.V. Joint Boot Kit Outer greater than 3.58 In. Diameter-614-003 - The Home Depot
 
...I rechecked my drivers side and noticed that the parking brake cable keeps getting caught on the top part of the sway bar link. ...

There's a plastic cover that goes over that top part so that the cable slides against it instead of being caught. Unfortunately, those covers only last a few years (maybe 5 or a little more). The cable eventually saws through them and they fall off. Of course, you can't get them anymore. They stopped making them a pretty good while back.
 
There's a plastic cover that goes over that top part so that the cable slides against it instead of being caught. Unfortunately, those covers only last a few years (maybe 5 or a little more). The cable eventually saws through them and they fall off. Of course, you can't get them anymore. They stopped making them a pretty good while back.
I even asked the parts guy about the "cap" and there isn't even a part number for it nor does it show up in his parts diagram. I had to show him the picture from the manual...I wonder if we could fashion a suitable replacement???
 
I even asked the parts guy about the "cap" and there isn't even a part number for it nor does it show up in his parts diagram. I had to show him the picture from the manual...I wonder if we could fashion a suitable replacement???

There used to be a part number, but it's apparently long gone. I remember seeing them on both of mine, then noticing that they were getting sliced apart, then noticing that they were completely gone.
Anyway, you'd think there would be other cars that had something similar that could be adapted.
 
I have been driving with the fuse pulled and the parking brake message. I decided to take a look at the calipers again today while I was swapping tires to try and isolate the tire responsible for the vibration I have in the steering. I had noticed that the parking brake lever on the caliper doesn't fully return to the stop. I have about an 1/8 inch gap on both calipers. I didn't see any restrictions and it isn't the spring being too weak since I can't push it back either. Is this typical? Could it be the limited travel causing the issue instead of the cable?
 

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