Update finally my mechanic looks at it today as says I have to take part of the dash off and some of the kick panel off to replace the starter harness/cable/wire is this true? Is this a hard job to do?Please help
Hello,
Thanks a million its the front cable cable going to the starter is this a easy thing to fix...myself
Okay. I thought you said it was the long cable that runs from the trunk to the front of the car. Yes, the short one from the wheel well to the starter is much easier to change out, but it is a multi-ended cable. It's section "Positive battery cable (front) ."
So is this a easy fix for a person not mechanically incline do I need a lift.
Also do I have to remove some of the dash to complete this
No.* You'll have to reach under the dash to loosen and then re-tighten one bolt. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable before doing all this. Do get some jack stands (they are cheap) and set the car on those. Push on it some to make sure it is secure. Also have someone there watching to provide help if anything happens.
I would never get under a car that was just held up by a jack.
*: I don't count the kick panel or the floor vents as "part of the dash."
Sounds like the right connection. The wiring that you want to replace is on the other side of the firewall. It goes to the starter and the alternator.
so this red cable in the car needs to be un loosen and therest of the process is underneath?
I had assumed so. (I thought that one bolt went from one side of the firewall to the other.) However, it looks like there is no need to access the nut under the dash. From the procedure that I linked earlier:
Positive battery cable (front)
From the engine compartment, position aside the bulkhead positive battery cable nut cover and remove the bulkhead positive battery cable nut and cable end.
To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Remove the body ground cable bolt and position aside the body ground cable lead.
To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Remove the 2 harness bracket screws.
To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
Remove the harness bracket.
Remove the starter ground cable nut and cable end.
To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Remove the starter solenoid positive cable nut and cable end.
To install, tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Remove the starter solenoid wire cable nut and cable end.
To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
Remove the generator harness locator.
Remove the generator. For additional information, refer to Section 414-02 .
Position aside the generator B+ cover and remove the generator B+ cable nut and cable end.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
Remove the engine compartment positive and ground cable assembly.
All
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Excellent on the jack stands, as well as where you actually jack the car up from. You can't just stick them under there anywhere either, you have to find a solid part of the car to put them under. Otherwise you can damage the car. This thread shows where you can put the jack stands under an LS.
Thabk yoi...i cant get my hands on jack stands right now ....so i might have to wait
Jacks are not designed for long term holding, and you don't want it to decide to bleed off pressure while you're under the car.
I didn't think so, but I looked it up to be sure. The factory service manual makes no mention of removing any part of the dash. (The passenger kick panel does have to be removed. It just pulls out, there's nothing to it.)
It sounds to me like this "mechanic" just doesn't want to do it.
Here's the factory manual:
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xe1008.htm~gen~ref.htm
Scroll down to "Positive battery cable (rear) "
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31007.htm~gen~ref.htmYou got a description like this for an 2006 v8 valve cover gasket replacement