Control arms

Lownslowlsc

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So whats good nowadays? I remember reading that Moogs aren't what they used to be. True? Honestly I'm just looking for something decent, no need for top shelf but I understand how these cars like their suspension parts.



Opinions?
 
No one seem's to like Dorman, but that's what I'm running upper/lower. No problems, they looked better built then the TRW's that came off. Uppers have grease zerks, lowers don't.
 
No one seem's to like Dorman, but that's what I'm running upper/lower. No problems, they looked better built then the TRW's that came off. Uppers have grease zerks, lowers don't.

How many miles have you racked up on them?


Is most of the concern with the uca the bushings splitting? Noise?
 
I did my 95 with all Moog. On the 98 I used all Raebestos and was told that were good because they installed and fitted properly. I liked the way they designed the ball joints so the grease spreads around
 
did u decide to rebuild entire front end? uca, lca, end links, in/out tie rods?
 
How many miles have you racked up on them?


Is most of the concern with the uca the bushings splitting? Noise?

Uppers have almost 15000 on them now. Lowers have almost 6000. No noises yet. Upper boots still look new, since they have the zerks I give them a shot every now and then. Purchased both from rockauto.com . Ball joint cup in lowers are a lot bigger then the original TRW's, so it holds more grease.

LCA (7).jpg
 
did u decide to rebuild entire front end? uca, lca, end links, in/out tie rods?

Thinking about it.

Uppers have almost 15000 on them now. Lowers have almost 6000. No noises yet. Upper boots still look new, since they have the zerks I give them a shot every now and then. Purchased both from rockauto.com . Ball joint cup in lowers are a lot bigger then the original TRW's, so it holds more grease.

Good to know, thank you sir.
 
I think one of the members here had some bad Duralost UCA's...which had a TRW stamp on em
 
Well got out there again and it looks to be my uca's. The fr wheel makes a faint pop/click at the same wheel position while making a turn 70% of the time. Rods look ok.

Moogs are expensive at the auto parts joints so I might have to go budget, unless I wait in which case i'll get the problem solvers off ra.

Fudge.
 
you're on air, right? if not you can save a few bucks with t-bird uca's
 
I had TRW/MOOG stuff on my first '98 all went completely bad at 30k. I am talking super wasted!

Now I just bought MOOG lower ball joints on close out for $15.99 from RockAuto. Graphight impregnated grooved with grease fittings. Just trying to get the tool off my friend so I can install em....
 
Well I had my mech buddy lift her up tonight. Uca bushing are shot on the drivers side and he didn't really see much on the pass side that would explain the noise.

So it looks like I'll be buying T-Bird Uppers since i'm converted. Leaning towards Moog ps's because w/ the discount from RA it only comes to 50 shipped each which I feel is acceptable.
 
Well I had my mech buddy lift her up tonight. Uca bushing are shot on the drivers side and he didn't really see much on the pass side that would explain the noise.

So it looks like I'll be buying T-Bird Uppers since i'm converted. Leaning towards Moog ps's because w/ the discount from RA it only comes to 45 shipped each.
Try to make sure they have Grease fittings otherwise they ain't gonna last from what I have experienced.
 
I'm using raysbestos professional grade. Very durable rubber boots on the ball joints
 
FWIW, I replaced the uppers, lowers, and sway bar links on my 98, back in early 2008 with all TRW sealed parts. Granted, I've probably only put on 20k or so miles since then, but they still look/function perfectly...

Also...if it helps, advance auto has a coupon code for 35% oft right now(probably just this weekend)--DOW41
 
FWIW, I replaced the uppers, lowers, and sway bar links on my 98, back in early 2008 with all TRW sealed parts. Granted, I've probably only put on 20k or so miles since then, but they still look/function perfectly...

Also...if it helps, advance auto has a coupon code for 35% oft right now(probably just this weekend)--DOW41

Once again this is TRW stuff that was installed on my 2nd Gen when I got it...
[video=youtube;L1phtulYtJ8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1phtulYtJ8[/video]
 
Try to make sure they have Grease fittings otherwise they ain't gonna last from what I have experienced.

I guess we'll find out!!

The original TRW'S didn't have grease fittings and lasted 200k miles. I don't think it really matters!
I guess what matters is how there taken care of.
Uppers...(dorman) have grease fittings and I keep them greased. :) 15,000 so far
Lowers...(dorman) have no grease fittings. :( 5,000 so far
Sway bar end links have no grease fittings either. 15,000 so far
So far everything is noiseless and perfect!!
I'll probably forget about this thread after awhile. Please ask me how everything is going!
 
I guess what matters is how there taken care of.

Thats the thing, how do you take care of a non greaseable joint?

I replaced the uppers with new ones from Autozone and they sent me one TRW no fitting unit and one with a fitting that looked completely different. 10k miles later and the one with a grease fitting was fine but the TRW clone lost it's boot and was creaking. No way to grease it so it is garbage and also the drivers side one so that much more fun to replace :mad:
 
Thats the thing, how do you take care of a non greaseable joint?

I replaced the uppers with new ones from Autozone and they sent me one TRW no fitting unit and one with a fitting that looked completely different. 10k miles later and the one with a grease fitting was fine but the TRW clone lost it's boot and was creaking. No way to grease it so it is garbage and also the drivers side one so that much more fun to replace :mad:

Probably cuz you don't have a block heater...
 

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