No cold air out of AC

perpetualchange

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I'm not getting any cold air out of my AC, just hot.

Can anyone help me diagnosis and eventually repair?

I tried just giving it a shot of frion but it wouldn't take.

For reference, I drive a 2004 LS v6.

Looking forward reading some responses!
 
Same here and I posted thread a couple of weeks ago and had some pretty insightful advice. I too, noticed that I wasn't getting any cold air coming from my vents with A/C level set to high. First thought was that R134a level was low and checked to see if the clutch was engaging on the compressor. Clutch wasn't spinning so that tells me not enough "juice" and bought a full can of R134a refrigerant refill. I started to fill it on the low side pressure and after about 30 seconds, the clutch started to spin on the compressor and kept an eye on the gauge that came with the can until it was properly filled. Still no cold air so did more research here and found that most folks who have this issue reports that the culprit is most likely your DCCV module, located torwards the front of the vehicle and is attached to the fan shroud. I bought a new DCCV and replaced it but Still not getting cold air. I'm at a loss now.

BTW: 2006 V8 LSE 75Kmiles
 
Have you searched/read any of the threads on here?
Is it heated air, or just not cooled air?
 
Same here and I posted thread a couple of weeks ago and had some pretty insightful advice. I too, noticed that I wasn't getting any cold air coming from my vents with A/C level set to high. First thought was that R134a level was low and checked to see if the clutch was engaging on the compressor. Clutch wasn't spinning so that tells me not enough "juice" and bought a full can of R134a refrigerant refill. I started to fill it on the low side pressure and after about 30 seconds, the clutch started to spin on the compressor and kept an eye on the gauge that came with the can until it was properly filled. Still no cold air so did more research here and found that most folks who have this issue reports that the culprit is most likely your DCCV module, located torwards the front of the vehicle and is attached to the fan shroud. I bought a new DCCV and replaced it but Still not getting cold air. I'm at a loss now.

BTW: 2006 V8 LSE 75Kmiles
Sounds crappy. How was replacing the DCCV on the v8? On the v6 it looks like it needs to be done by someone with long, skinny arms...
 
The DATC might be bad as well is another option.

Has Fuse #1 and RELAY #08 for the A/C clutch been checked ?

DOES the A/C indicator light turn on when the A/C button is pushed and off when the OFF button is pushed?



Heater Core Plug Test

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but ... (haven't done this myself before so unsure, just read about it.)
there's three coolant lines going through the firewall into the heater core with hot coolant inside them.

Top two should be input lines as the DCCV stands for Dual Climate is has separate lines for either side,
bottom line is the coolant recovery line.

One could pinch off the lines with vice grips and see if the flow of heat stops, if the AC is working correctly you should get cold air.
it's essentially the same as what the DCCV would do, open the valves to allow hot coolant to flow through to the interior heater core.

The DATC module is not able to control the DCCV valves properly as the solenoids inside may be stuck in the open position.




RECAP:

- Remove the passenger side cowl cover.
- Clamp off the three heater hoses going to the heater core, as close to the heater core as possible. (DISCLAIMER: It's not a permanent solution!)
- Set the DATC module to 60° F.

Is cooling restored?
 
Sounds crappy. How was replacing the DCCV on the v8? On the v6 it looks like it needs to be done by someone with long, skinny arms...

It actually wasn't bad at all. The only thing was that I had to drain most of the coolant fluid. It was very accessible once you remove the air box and all the attachment that comes with it, you are golden. While you are at it, you might as well or think about replacing the serpentine belt. That was a 10 minute job. Believe it or not, the problem I had was deciding wether to do a total coolant flush or just refilling what was drained out of my car when I swapped out the DCCV module.
 
The DATC might be bad as well is another option.

Has Fuse #1 and RELAY #08 for the A/C clutch been checked ?

DOES the A/C indicator light turn on when the A/C button is pushed and off when the OFF button is pushed? [\QUOTE]

Replaced Fuse #1 which was indeed blown, but no improvement. Haven't checked Relay #08.

The A/C indicator light is working fine, too.

I'll try some of the other suggestions later tonight after work, thanks.
 
Never heard of a "relay fuse."
There are fuses and there are relays, and sometimes a fuse is used to protect a relay.
I think you must be talking about a relay, the compressor relay?
 
What I would do is replace it with another relay fuse, and if it starts working you know its the relay fuse.

Didn't about that one, thanks. I will check it when I get home today. On another note, I did borrow a gauge to properly check the high and low side for refrigerant level, if there is too much refrigerant in the system, would that also be a factor in getting the A/C to work or blow cold air?
 
Never heard of a "relay fuse."
There are fuses and there are relays, and sometimes a fuse is used to protect a relay.
I think you must be talking about a relay, the compressor relay?

Joegr is right, we are getting ahead of ourselves. Fuses are small see through color coded and you can actually see if it is blown but the relay are black in color and cubed shaped solids. You'll see it when you pop the fuse box in the engine compartment underneath the hood.
 
Never heard of a "relay fuse."
There are fuses and there are relays, and sometimes a fuse is used to protect a relay.
I think you must be talking about a relay, the compressor relay?

I don't know anything about it.

My Fuse 1 was definitely blown, though.
 
On another note, I did borrow a gauge to properly check the high and low side for refrigerant level, if there is too much refrigerant in the system, would that also be a factor in getting the A/C to work or blow cold air?

Yes, if you overcharge the system you could even burn out the compressor. I've seen this happen personally. What readings did you get?
 
... Fuse 1 was definitely blown, though.

re&re your DCCV.

as I mentioned, you could pinch off the heater core lines to get some relief for the time being and to see if the A/C is actually working.
also turn on the A/C for a bit and check your refrigerant lines under the hood, they should feel stone cold after it has run at 1500RPM for a bit.
It would then indicate it's working but the DCCV is not playing nice with it. the DCCV is meant to stop the hot coolant flow across the heater core.


Fuse 1 protected Relay 08 and I did not call it a "Relay Fuse"!
 
Yes, if you overcharge the system you could even burn out the compressor. I've seen this happen personally. What readings did you get?

Haven't measured it yet. I just got the gauge from a friend at work today. Will see if I can check it tomorrow. I'll check back in when I have results. Also, BigRigLS has a good point which I will also test out.
 
I'll try it, thanks. Where would the heater core lines be? Just the hot lines going into the DCCV?

I'm a newb with DIY car maintenance, if there's some more detailed drawings than what's in the owner manual that'd be helpful. I don't even think I see the DCCV in the owner's manual.
 
Looking at it now. I'll take some pictures and report back as to what differences I have going in with the v6.
 
Well, no need to replace the valve.

I started it up, pulled out Relay 8, and plugged Relay 8 back in and, viola, the compressor clicked and cool air started blowing.

Cooler on one side than the other but cool enough!

Now onto solving my lamp issues.
 
Well, no need to replace the valve.

I started it up, pulled out Relay 8, and plugged Relay 8 back in and, viola, the compressor clicked and cool air started blowing.

Cooler on one side than the other but cool enough!

Now onto solving my lamp issues.



You're not out of the wood just yet, if only it was that easy my friend.

Relay # 08 clicked open and stayed open and the fuse for it blew, as far as I can make sense of it.

It will redo it again in a matter of time.

Your cold on driver-side but warm on passenger-side is a faulty DCCV. It needs to be replaced.

--- EDIT: could also be related to a faulty inside ambient temp sensor(s) but doubtful.
 
//// joke ////

It's actually an additional feature Lincoln motor company build in to this DCCV, comes as a "graduated" option.

Driver-side Cold, Passenger-side HOT ~ keeps the driver COOL and his bitch HOT looking!

joke.gif
 

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