Wheel Hubs

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der3wuste3fuchs

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Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has changed out these wheel hubs. I ordered a new set of front ones and while looking through the manual it says to replace with new bolts. Which ones are these? I see three small threads on the front flange and 4 large threads on the rear flange. Set did not come with any bolts..

Thanks.

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I just did one of my fronts. You most likely can reuse your old bolts if you don't have rust.

I have a south US car, so there is no rust and my hub assembly just fell out.
 
I've changed both of mine. Its a very simple job if they are not rusted in.
 
if they are you can use the stud holes (after you remove them), lag bolts, and nuts to push the old hubs out... get with Hite, He has a great way of doing it!
 
Ok, so I swapped out the hubs and man that was a bitch. Just ran into some problems. However I did complete it with one small issue.. I tried to bleed the brakes as you would do for a non ABS car, and Im praying I didn't blow the master cylinder. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. No leaks and the fluid level is still somewhat decent albeit a little low. Any suggestions to get me on a good path?

Thanks
 
Let's see. Did you let the MC get empty at any time? If so you may have introduced air into the line which means a complete rebleed is needed. Did you ensure the bleed screws are all tight without overtightening and not leaking? And what exactly was your bleed procedure? The only way I've ever gotten brakes to bleed properly was with the 2 person method where one person pumps the pedal and holds, and the other (me) cracks the bleeders open until fresh, clean fluid comes out. And, the order is furthest wheel from the MC to the closest wheel. I know there are other methods but this is the only one that has ever worked every time for me. And now for the most boneheaded question, did you remember to put the brake shoes back in? :Bang:N

If any of this seems that I'm insulting your intelligence, I'm not. I won't say how many of these dimwit mistakes I've made myself in the past. :rolleyes:
 
Telco said:
Let's see. Did you let the MC get empty at any time? If so you may have introduced air into the line which means a complete rebleed is needed. Did you ensure the bleed screws are all tight without overtightening and not leaking? And what exactly was your bleed procedure? The only way I've ever gotten brakes to bleed properly was with the 2 person method where one person pumps the pedal and holds, and the other (me) cracks the bleeders open until fresh, clean fluid comes out. And, the order is furthest wheel from the MC to the closest wheel. I know there are other methods but this is the only one that has ever worked every time for me. And now for the most boneheaded question, did you remember to put the brake shoes back in? :Bang:N

If any of this seems that I'm insulting your intelligence, I'm not. I won't say how many of these dimwit mistakes I've made myself in the past. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Oh yes, I've made some pretty bad mistakes in the past. But I'm positive everything is hooked up right. The bleed procedure I did was two pumps and a long hold however I'm thinking I may have not tightened it down before my friend depressed the pedal. So I went back and made sure I bleed the front two brakes with two pumps and tightened her down with the pedal depressed all the way. I did this with the car off and on. I still have a decent amount of fluid so I'm sure the master cylinder didn't empty itself..
 
Just gonna take it into the shop and be safe. still saved a ton of money by replacing those hubs myself. Besides, needed to get the tranny, steering, and oil fluid changed. Thanks a bunch for all the help though guys.
 
No worries. If a shop is going to do it, see if they can do a full bleed and replace it with DOT4. You will get a fluid with a higher boiling point, which will be more resistant to brake fade.
 
Telco said:
No worries. If a shop is going to do it, see if they can do a full bleed and replace it with DOT4. You will get a fluid with a higher boiling point, which will be more resistant to brake fade.
Click to expand...

Yup! I always ask for DOT 4. They say the standard is a combo of 3/4 but I still stick with what the manual says. Just got it back from the shop, full bleed and refill was only a hundred bucks which is very good for franchise labor in Hawaii. All in all came out about 700.00 bucks ahead so still feeling good; and that damn wobbly tire and screech is gone. Lesson learned though, make sure you bleed these brakes right or you will be screwed!

Thanks again.

Ian.
 
der3wuste3fuchs said:
Ok, so I swapped out the hubs and man that was a bitch. Just ran into some problems. However I did complete it with one small issue.. I tried to bleed the brakes as you would do for a non ABS car, and Im praying I didn't blow the master cylinder. The pedal goes all the way to the floor. No leaks and the fluid level is still somewhat decent albeit a little low. Any suggestions to get me on a good path?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Why did the brakes need bled for a hub swap?
 
I ended up disconnecting the brake line (bleed screw) completely because that was just an accident.
 
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